replacing the rear brake caliper guide bolts and dust boots

[LMHmedchem]

Hello,

I am on to the rear brakes on my 2002 Explorer XLT v8. The caliper 10mm bolts were completely rounded off so I had to remove them with a bolt extractor socket and breaker bar. That went fine, but I need to replace the bolts since they are too rounded off to reuse.

I got two new caliper guide pin-bolt kits from advance auto,
Wearever Caliper Guide Pin-Bolt Kit

and I already had the dust boot kit. Looking at the parts, it's not that intuitive how to remove the old slide and dust boots from the caliper and how to put the new ones in, where to grease, etc. The front one's were easy, but none of the vids I have watched on replacing the rear brakes include changing out the dust boots and bolts. I don't really have an option since the dust boots are torn and the guide bolts are rounded off, so I would really appreciate some advice or a link to a vid or writeup on how to proceed.

Thanks,

LMHmedchem

 

[ROBinGa]

Check this video out. It's complete change out and towards the end he shows the caliber slide and pins so maybe this can help.

http://youtu.be/cf0Cg8X0I60

 

[LMHmedchem]

Check this video out. It's complete change out and towards the end he shows the caliber slide and pins so maybe this can help.

In the video, he just pushes out the slide sleeves from inside the rubber boots, greases them, and replaces them. Since I am replacing the boots as well I guess I would just pull or cut the old boots out and force in the new ones. The boots are one piece and are larger on both ends then in the middle, so I would have to force them into the caliper and get them through without tearing them. The slide sleeves are lubricated on the outside, which is one thing I wasn't sure of.

This mechanic got quite a bit of grease on the brake pads transferred from his gloves. He didn't seem to make any attempt to clean it off of the pads afterwords. I find this a bit sloppy.

Does anyone know what to torque the caliper bolts to when they are reinstalled? The mechanic didn't tighten then very much in the vid.

LMHmedchem

 

[ROBinGa]

The caliper bracket that attaches to knuckle is torqued to like 90-100 fps but the bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket don't require much. I think it's 25-30 fps only for the caliper bolts. I'm sure someone has a chart or listing somewhere for all the correct torque specs.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I'm sure someone has a chart or listing somewhere for all the correct torque specs.

This is a question I always seem to be asking, especially for suspension stuff where you want everything to be tightened evenly on both sides. It would be nice if someone could post a link to such a resource.

LMHmedchem

 

[swshawaii]

Rear Disc Brake Specifications (Caliper Bolts 24 ft/lbs.)
https://www.scribd.com/doc/273788589/Rear-Disc-Brake-Specifications

Brake Pads Removal and Installation (Rear)
https://www.scribd.com/doc/273789247/Brake-Pads-Removal-and-Installation

NOTE: The brake pads must be oriented with the notch in the UP position.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Rear Disc Brake Specifications (Caliper Bolts 24 ft/lbs.)
https://www.scribd.com/doc/273788589/Rear-Disc-Brake-Specifications

Brake Pads Removal and Installation (Rear)
https://www.scribd.com/doc/273789247/Brake-Pads-Removal-and-Installation

Thanks for the links. Do you always use gasket material to secure the new slippers? I have some brake quiet I could use for that but my impression has always been that it's not necessary.

Do you happen to know the torque settings for the upper and lower nuts on the front sway bar linkers?

LMHmedchem

 

[swshawaii]

Remove the stainless slippers and wire brush the caliper where they make contact. Apply a VERY light coat of silicone brake lube on ALL brake hardware that contacts the calipers. These are the parts that usually cause issues and brake noise. Also recommend removing the rotors to inspect the parking brake mechanism and clean and grease any moving parts as needed. Apply a very light film of anti seize around the hub bores and contact surfaces where the hub meets the wheel. Remember to chock the front tires and release the parking brake first.

If your front sway bar end links are stock the torque spec is 15-21 ft/lbs. The stock design has very hard neoprene bushings that don't compress like the softer stem type aftermarket bushings. Tighten aftermarket links such as the Moog K7275 until the bushings slightly start to bulge. Moog's newer design K700542 end links with polyurethane bushings are torqued to the 18 ft/lb. factory spec.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Well everything went fine. I removed the slides by just pushing them out of the old boots. I removed the old boots by pushing them through one end using a screwdriver. A pair of needle nose pliers are helpful as well. I put the new boots in by pushing them in from one end and then pulling them through with the needle nose.

It was a bit harder to get the new slides in once they were greased up. For some of them, I used the needle nose to stretch the opening in the boot enough to get the new slide in. For one, I just pushed it in from one end and I managed to get it through. I'm not sure what the best method really is. I found that I had to put allot of slide grease inside both ends of the new boots. If I just lubed up the new slide, it didn't really slide all the well inside of the boot. If I put a 1/2cm glob of grease inside of each end of the boot, the slide seemed to work allot better.

Once the boots and slides were in, I cleaned up the caliper mounting bracket where the slippers are applied. I put a small amount of brake quiet on the slipper mounting surface and installed the new slippers. I put the anti-seize on the surface around the lug bolts. It looked like there was some of this on the lug bolt threads from some previous work, but I removed this with brake cleaner. The brake pads had also been installed upside down, so I'm not sure about the last person who worked on this.

I installed the new pads putting some brake grease on the contact points. I used quite a bit more than on the front using almost one packet per side. I lubed the tabs on both ends, the surface of the slippers (slightly) and the points of contact between the pads and the caliper. The caliper installed easily and I put in the new bolts and tightened to 24fp with my clicker. I put the wheels back on and tightened the lugs to 100fp. I recharged the pistons by slowly pumping the brake, first with the engine off and then again with it running.

The road test went fine. The truck stops very nicely and there is no noise at all.

Of course, when I had the wheels off, I noticed that the coil spring on one of the rear struts is broken, so that will be the next thing. There is always something else isn't there?

Thanks for all the help.

LMHmedchem