What would you pay? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What would you pay?

FloGrown941

Member
Joined
July 14, 2016
Messages
20
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2
City, State
Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 XLT 5.0
2005 XLT 4.0
Asking what you folks would consider "reasonable". 2005 Ex. 4.0L 2wd 198,x.. mi. Tranny replaced @ 170k. Timken front bearings installed less than 4k ago. Front and rear brakes, Upper and lower Moog Ball Joints installed last year. Valve cover and intake manifold gaskets replaced last year to stop valve cover leak also last year.

Here's the issue. . I believe it now has the timing chain issue.Noise is at start up, and above 2k Rpms. Silent at idle and while cruising. Has being doing it for about 1.5 mos now. Debating if its worth dumping money into it to get it fixed or flip it to someone who will have the time and patience to go through the repair. That being said, what would you pay OR expect to get out of it for that matter if it was your truck. ?

Thanks
 



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At that mileage, assuming it needs timing chains and with it being the 4.0 and 2wd, I’d only pay scrap value. $300?

And that would be based on if I was wanting some body parts, possibly the seats if they were leather etc.

Most buyers won’t care about replaced parts. A rebuilt tranny ads zero value because it implies a problem.

On these Explorers, one shouldn’t put any big money (trans/engine) into them unless they expect to keep them long term.

Chains done right will run ~$3,500. You can of course do it yourself a lot cheaper. if I couldn’t do it myself, the $3,500 cost at a shop would render this vehicle useless at its mileage.

Plenty of these 4.0’s out there with 300k+ miles on them.
 






Plenty of these 4.0’s out there with 300k+ miles on them.

Appreciate the feedback. So, only thing is I'm not quite following you on this part. Are you saying plenty of 4.0s out there w little to no major issues?
 






Appreciate the feedback. So, only thing is I'm not quite following you on this part. Are you saying plenty of 4.0s out there w little to no major issues?
Just saying if you keep up on maintenance, fix issues before they become catastrophic problems, you can get some good life out of these. Cost of repairs vs. new car payment.

The 4.0’s with their timing chains can completely fail without much notice, destroying the engine.
If you have any chain noise at all, I’d stop driving it immediately until repaired.
 












Just saying if you keep up on maintenance, fix issues before they become catastrophic problems, you can get some good life out of these. Cost of repairs vs. new car payment.

The 4.0’s with their timing chains can completely fail without much notice, destroying the engine.
If you have any chain noise at all, I’d stop driving it immediately until repaired.

Long and boring reply below:


Putting pencil to paper, it is always cheaper to keep her IF you stay up on maintenance.



The poster has done a decent amount of maintenance and nobody will pay them a fair sum with any mechanical issue such as timing guides.


lets say you have bad luck with unknown vehicle history...


Engine: $400 (salvage yard), $300 new timing components. Total: $700

Transmission: $200 master rebuild with bands, $60 sleeves for servo bores, $70 Fluid. Total: $330

Transfer case: $150 clutch rebuild, bearings. Total $150

Front diff: $180 rebuild kit $20 Ford seals $10 TA 30 sealant (also can be used on rear diff), $20 fluid, $10 Speedi sleeve, $125 ring and pinion, Total: $365

Rear diff: $80 rebuild kit, $20 fluid, $40 revised axle seals, $10 Speedi sleeve, $75 carbon fiber clutch pack, $125 ring and pinion, Total $350

New boots on all CV jts, total $80

New front wheel brgs: $300

New rear wheel brgs: $100

New tires $400

New radiator: $80

Water pump: $40

Blah blah blah

I am still shy of $3,500 with every major expensive component replaced (except AC). Add in other parts such as control arms, ball jts, tie rods, steering rack STILL under $5,000!!

If all this lasted only a year and lets round to $5,000 you are at $416/month. If you got 2 yrs out of the aforementioned problem vehicle you are $208/month
.

Regardless of make or model,
-I understand the point that the vehicle valuation may be less than the part
-I understand the key to this is labor not costing money in the above scenarios.
-Some people don't want to tinker
-Some people want a brand new vehicle
-Assumes vehicle is otherwise structurally sound



-I have seen a handful of 4.0 SOHC over 175,000mi on original timing components religiously maintained always with the 820S filter
-I have seen engines from every make dead before 75,000 mi due to poor maintenance.
-Whichever oil filter you use, it HAS TO have an anti drain back valve. And at that, you should test it. I have tested hot and cold drainback valves and the only consistent sealer is... Ford.

Good luck!
 






Good point guys. As always appreciate the input. I guess now I just need to really think about which is worth doing. Kind of in a tough spot because I've seen videos on Youtube of Exs with the timing issue/tensioner sound and mine does not sound like that. I think the ones in the videos sound almost like diesels or like a loud tapping and the sound is persistent at idle. I would describe this noise more like a belt or pulley squeal. I did replace my idler pulley, tensioner and belt. I did take the belt off and ran the engine for about a min after I noticed the sound was still there after switching these parts. The sound was there when foot was on gas any thing higher than 2k RPMs w/ belt off. completely quiet at idle however. For those of you with experience with the issue, is this how it starts off until it gets worse? or Could I be looking at a completely different issue. My friend heard it and now I'm second guessing about assuming its the timing noise.
 






maintained always with the 820S filter

Would agree with this. Only filter I have ever used on both my Ex's since doing my own oil changes. Cheap, and no need to look at all the other expensive filters.
 






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