$20 Custom build cold air scoop on stock air intake system! Is this ok or even legal?

[glfredrick]

To answer one of your earliest questions -- no -- you are not violating any regulations, as you retain the stock air box, etc. You are just re-routing the inflow. I've done that as well, and did notice some performance gains at freeway speeds. I did mine on the hood though. Seems to be a better alternative for my uses, which include some considerable amount of off-road use.

About the CEL... You need to do more than just read codes to diagnose this problem. Find someone with a Snap On or similar scanner that gives real-time data, not just codes. Then you can determine if your o2 sensors are actually sending signals that change with throttle position, or if they are dead. You can also check the EGR function, check MAF readings, fuel pump trim, etc., all of which will be needed to actually fix your problems.

With your stated symptoms, I'd be inclined to check vacuum lines -- you probably have several that are bad/cracked/melted, etc. I'd also be checking for intake manifold leaks, cleaning the MAF with the proper cleaner, and checking the IAC valve for leaks. After that, I'd be checking for plugged cats...

Your fuel pump problem may be that the trim (your computer ramps the pump up and down according to engine management needs) is maxed out and the pump can't keep up anymore. This isn't uncommon and you'll barely ever know from a drivability problem, save that you are experiencing a decided lag in acceleration. You could also have a leaky fuel pressure unit, which will feed raw fuel into the intake, also causing some of the other issues you mention.

Here's a pic of my setup. It uses 3" RV sewer flex pipe to connect directly to the side of the stock airbox, which I cut out and siliconed in a new fitting made to fit the pipe. Very simple, and efficient. I drilled a couple of small holes in the bottom of the air box to aid in draining any water that gets in -- so far no problems, even though I sort of abuse the truck... the second photo below shows that with your setup, or a stock setup, the engine would have been flooded and killed...

 

[mawrazen]

glfredick - Awesome setup! Thanks for your interest and feedback!

I have been fixing this 1994 EB Ex since I got it used with 175+K miles.

Got a good deal $3000.00 cash (I thought it was a good deal at the time)
I have slowly been repairing all of the pre-exsisting deficiencies. (Only got 12-14 MPG when I got it)

Apparently when purchased, it needed a NEW gasket on the lower intake manifold. I was losing coolant through the front of the engine, right behind the water pump. Former owner just put sealant on the outside of the gasket, I had to pull the Intake manifold to fix it right.

Needed a new Tranny modulator. Cheap part, Paid a local shop $100 to install it for me. (What a difference after that, Ran better and no Backfires throught the intake!)

I Have Replaced the: PCM, EGR valve, PCV valve, Fuel filter, Plugs, Wires and installed K&N Filter, now run synthetic oil.

I have cleaned the MAF, and the IAC and performed TPS mod. I also use seafoam and checked all vacuum lines.

I had a personal goal of 23 MPG but have never gotten there untill I tried CAI Ver. 3.0 directly into the airbox with 4" pipe.

Finally hit over 23 MPG! (Been trying for 4 years)

First test of CAI 3.0 : (150 miles at 79 MPH): 23.25 MPG
2nd test: Parking brake was partially on! Duh!
3rd test: 356 miles at 2500-2600 RPM on Hwy (Got Damn CEL at 290 miles) Results: 23.57 MPG! Yeah! It does work!

I think I have narrowed the CEL to a clogged cat or bad O2 sensors. When its hot outside its a serious problem. Drove through the Carolinas in the daytime, 107 degrees outside! Ouch! Ran like ****. Night driving I can usually go 400 miles unless I go up the mountains in VA. Gets me everytime! The 2200 ft drive uphill always causes a CEL usually O2 codes.

Experiment to solve CEL: After getting 23.57 MPG I had 200 Hwy miles to go. I reset the PCM and poured water on the rear headers and o2 sensors to cool them off. (Watch out for the steam!) :fire: No CEL after that! It seems that when the O2 sensors get hot I get the CEL!

?Bad O2 sensors or clogged cat? I still need some help! I have ordered an Air/Fuel gauge to monitor whats happening. I have also considered wiring a pair of multimeters to the O2 sensors to actually see whats taking place in real time.

?Do they make a Tuning chip or scanner to wire the PCM to a laptop for real monitoring or to make adjustments on a 1994 Ex? (I have been looking but it seems they are for late model vehicles only)

Now at 235+K miles (And Dealership says I need a new Truck!)

Thanks in advance to all!

I hope to upload a pic today of CAI 3.0

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

I'm subscribing...this is kinda cool

 

[mawrazen]

Pictures of CAI Ver. 3.0 and my traveling companion Marty!

Here is a quick pic of the CAI I built Thursday!

First pic is a side profile that shows it doesn't stick out the front. Also shows the 6 x4 " reducer and "Flex a Spout" connections under the fender.

2nd pic is my portable security system "Marty Dog". He is a high maintainence Bernese Mountain Dog who loves go for rides and stick his head out of the window. Even when the AC is on I keep the back window down for him to stick his head out even at 80 MPH he loes it!

Thanks to all!

 

[Glen4X4]

Thats cool, but do you have a little crack in the back so when your driving in wet whether it can help drain the water and try to help prevent the water from going up and soaking your filter and getting into your oil or throttle body, I dont know if you have the breather still hooked up to the oil fill or not.

 

[Gator Jeff]

Looks sweet. Is that it's true position or did you put it flush with the bumper trim like v 1.0 and just pull it down for the pics? If that's the final position, I'd be worried about speedbumps and such.

 

[mawrazen]

Thanks for the Ideas! CAI Ver. 3.1 is already in the design stage. Keep them Coming!

Yes I have drilled several drain holes in the bottom of the lower edge of CAI Ver. 3.0 after my son noticed it had captured more rain water than his homemade rain gauge.

I guess I should create Ver 3.1 with a rear strap system to hold the intake level. I did drive throught the rain in GA without a problem after drilling the drain holes. Maybe I should also make a cut in the back of the 6 to 4" reducer to force water out of the intake before it travels up the "Ridged Flex a Spout" into the airbox.

I think I'll wait till it rains again and check the filterbox for moisture. There is a drain hole in the stock Air filter box and I think the air pressure would not be enough to force the water up into the filter. Also the forced air pressure in the filterbox should be greater than the suction created by the motor, allowing the water to be forced out of the bottom drain hole in the filterbox.

Yes the Stock Breather is still installed.

The bottom of CAI Ver 3.0 sits 6" off the ground. The top is directly mounted to the bumper trim and recessed about 2 inches. I guess I will make more changes after I hit a curb while parking.

After a 5% increase in gas mileage I can't stop now, Ver. 3.1 is on! Best 20 bucks I ever spent!

Thanks for the feedback! Cheers 2 U

 

[Glen4X4]

I'd think that if you were going at a good rate of speed that water dripplets could be forced up into the air box but if its got drain holes also then you "should" be in good shape, ya just can't ever be to careful when it comes to moisture and your motor

 

[glfredrick]

Don't be so worried about rain -- it is no biggie. Your engine actually runs better with a little bit of water injection. There is no real mechanism to eliminate rain from entering the airbox with the factory setup if you check it out. It just gets sucked up and burned.

We old-timer drag racers know that we used to use water injection to control detonation when we could get away with it... Makes more power -- not less.

Now, a snoot full of muddy water -- that is another thing all together.

 

[Charlie]

Any updates on this?

 

[seth247]

What's the status on the DIY blower?


And to your question about scanners as far as I now you can only read codes on a first gen. The comp just isn't skfisticated enough for anything like real time sensor data. (sucks)

They do make performance chips though(can't think of a brand) but I'd stay away from ebay chips if I were you!!(especially ones claiming 40mpg and 70 extra horses)

 

[Lee Iaccoca]

There are those E-Ram electric superchargers and also an Australian knock off of the E-Ram that is suggested to be slightly more powerful

These things only run at full throttle and are worth a little boost, maybe 1PSI. E-Ram sells a Dual set-up which apparently rates at 1.5 something PSI.

Electric superchargers really make a lot of sense when combined with traditional turbo chargers.

Honeywell has a prototype electric-assist turbocharger that essentially eliminates "Turbo Lag." The electric motor spools the turbo up instantaneously, then the engine exhaust pressure builds and takes over the boost.

I could see -- at least in theory -- adding a Dual E-Ram setup to a car or truck with a traditional turbocharger that lags badly.

Such a setup would likely produce some of the lag-eliminating effect of the Honeywell electric-assist turbocharger (in fact the power drawn by motors in the Dual E-Ram setup is allegedly the same as the power drawn by the motor in the Honeywell prototype).

What i am saying though is that unless your Explorer is turbocharged or you have money that absolutely HAS to get spent on every last, small performance mod., doing an electric supercharger -- E-Ram -- on an Explorer is probably more trouble than its worth.