vibration/rumble when turning at low speeds

[velcrostrapshoes]

My 2003 explorer xlt has always made sort of an odd rumbling noise when making turns at low speeds, but this summer recently while driving on a long distance drive, I noticed that it was getting a lot more intense.. After driving on the highway for over a couple hours, I got off on an exit to stop off at a gas station and noticed that while I was making turns in the residential areas that the noise had gotten a lot worse and now it was accompanied by sort of a creaking sound.. It sounded REALLY bad.. After a little while it sort of went away, but every now and then the REALLY bad noise rears it's ugly head..

Does anyone know of any known problems that this could possibly be?

 

[IZwack]

Try removing the front driveshaft and take it for a quick test drive with some low speed tight turns -- if it goes away, its the transfer case. Just be aware that, since you have AWD, you must set the parking brake when parking or else there is a chance the vehicle will crawl forward when the front driveshaft is removed.

 

[DavidS]

My '02 EB 4.6L V8 has recently started doing the same thing. It's especially noticeable if the wheel is even just slightly turned and you apply any power starting at 0 MPH in both forward and reverse. You hear a rapid pulsing kind of vibration and also feel it in the steering wheel. When you let off the gas, it basically goes away. I did put it into 4WD High just to see if it would make any difference and it got even louder with a groaning kind of sound added. I didn't know if they had something like a CV joint or not on the front wheels as this vehicle is my first 4WD. If it is the transfer case, any guestimate about what could be wrong or the dollars involved?

 

[Climbnkd2]

I've got an 02 XLT V8 that is doing the exact same thing. I tried the brown wire mod to see if that would make a difference and it didn't. To me it seems like the 4x4 is engaged based on the sound and the feel of the vibration, but I haven't had a chance to take it to a shop to have someone with more experience look at it. I may try to remove the front drive shaft and see what happens. If anyone else has suggestions please post.

 

[DavidS]

Do you think it would be okay to just remove the drive shaft permanently? I never need 4WD where I live and really can't afford to spend much on it.

 

[IZwack]

I'd say it is not okay to permanently remove the front driveshaft with the v8s because oh the parking creep problem.

 

[DavidS]

I thought auto transmissions had some sort of pin locking arrangement to keep the drive system from turning. I know Park acts different on my X than on any other vehicle I've had that when you put it into Park and let off the brake, it will allow the vehicle to roll a couple of inches before it catches. This then puts it in a bind trying to get it out of Park. I usually set the emergency brake first and then put it into park. A weird setup to me.

This vehicle is the first 4WD I've had and 4WD problems have accounted for most of the issues I've had with it since I bought it new in '02. I'm quite sure it will be my last one also as it's now worth less than $3,000 on trade-in in my area and several dealers won't even take late model X's like it on trade.

 

[IZwack]

I thought auto transmissions had some sort of pin locking arrangement to keep the drive system from turning.

Yes, the transmission does but the transmission isnt the issue, its the transfer case thats behind the v8 -- the "AWD" transfer case.

This vehicle is the first 4WD ..

Althought it is, from the perspective of the wheels, a "4wd", we often don't refer to the v8's as being "4wd" because of their "AWD" transfer case -- which can not couple or lock the front and rear driveshafts together at 100%.

 

[DavidS]

How does one go about removing the front drive shaft to the transfer case? Any photo or video explanation would be most appreciated.

 

[IZwack]

Its just 6 bolts. They're small but very long bolts, I think like 10 mm heads.

Pardon the dirt, but here is the transfer case end of the front driveshaft and the bolts:

When removing the front driveshaft, dont pull on it along its rotational axis. Instead, if doesnt disconnect (in other words, fall off) the transfer case easily, tap the driveshaft with a hammer where the 6 bolts go into, not the soft rubber "boot" which the bolts surround.

Here is what the other side looks like:

 

[Climbnkd2]

Possible cause/solution found

Well today I finally made it a repair shop. They inspected the front end and told me there wasn't anything obvious wrong but they definitely could feel/hear the rumbling/grinding noise. So they called their national service center to check for a tech service bulletin. Wouldn't you know it, there is one that describes the exact problem. Turns out it is actually coming from the rear and not the front. The TSB calls for replacing the limited slip clutch pack in the rear diff. I talked to the local Ford dealer and the service rep said it is about $700 to replace the clutch pack. He recommended that I try putting some friction modifier in the rear diff and see if that fixes the problem. I was much happier about trying the friction modifier at $10 verses $700. I am going to put it in tonight and will post the results after I've put some miles on it. Here's to hoping!!

 

[Climbnkd2]

Another thing I failed to mention...originally I was sure it was the front end because the problem was mainly during turning. Once the mechanic told me it was in the rear diff I paid more attention while driving and it does actually seem to be coming from the rear. Just an observation.

 

[Thelt]

You sure it is not your wheel bearings?

 

[Climbnkd2]

Just wanted to update those who have this problem. I was able to get most of one bottle (~3 oz.) of friction modifier into the rear diff and drove it for about 200 miles. I am extremely happy to report that the noise and vibration is almost completely gone. I still feel/hear it a little but for the most part it is gone. I still have another bottle to put in and that should cure it for good.

 

[Steve Forbes]

Well, this is an ancient thread to say the least. Regardless, Google for some reason, led me here. Last night (17-JUN-2016) my 1998 EX XLT w/ 4L SOHC and 4X4 started chucking and bucking while making tight turns. I, too, at first thought it was the front end even though I had just replaced EVERYTHING recently. (Less than 6 months) There was no rational reason why anything in the front end would cause this problem. Just for the heck of it I checked the power steering which I knew was pointless since, again, replacing all of the suspension parts in the front end just could not introduce air into the system. It is not possible and anyone who even THINKS that has happened is, well, let's just say,"misguided" and leave it at that.

The short story is that I pulled the rear differential cover and checked everything. I found signs of water intrusion in the lubricant which gave me hope. The micro shavings that were on the magnetic filler plug and the cover showed only normal wear. The wear patterns on the gears were text book fine and there were no chips of discoloration to be found, period. I decided to not pull the guts with the hope that the clutch packs had not yet been damaged and after cleaning everything and then installing a new gasket. I filled the pumpkin with the recommended 4 OZ of CRC's Trans-X-Posi-Trac fluid and about 5.4 pints of Mobil 1 75W-140 gear lube.

End story, everything is back to normal. WHEW! I do not need to replace or rebuild the rear end of my EX. YIIPPEE!

Every so often, the simple answer is the right answer. With that, I'm out of here!

sbf