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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
my 1356 fits.. kind of. It sits frame and low you have to manage the larger tab just inside of the lower frame lip also makes the whole engine sit a little sideways, but it fits.
Shows the notch in the frame. It's NOT weak. I've wheeled this truck hard on trails and rocks. There is 1/2" between the t-case and outside frame (plently room for drivetrain movement.
This is the tranny mount. The 4r70w ended up being 2" further forward (for me) than the original tranny. I used 1/4" plate on top of the original tranny crossmember exactly 7/8" over to the passenger side to clear the t-case and frame.
You could also grind off these tabs as they are not used for anything. For me, it would be possible to tuck the t-case inside the frame rail without having to clearance/notch the frame if I did this. I had just chosen to do the frame at the time instead. With it like it is however, I can re&re the t-case easily. If the frame isn't clearanced, it may be impossible to re&re the t-case without unbolting the rear tranny mount also.
If you do notch the frame, gring/cut the shape into a half moon or gentle radius. Any sharp points like /\ or^ will cause a stress point to possibly weaken the frame.
Ok the 205 will bolt up. A notch is required in the trans tailhousing to accomodate one of the shift rails.
It has fixed yokes on both outputs(an improvement over the 1356's slip yoke.)
it doesn't have as deep a low range (1.98 I think) but I really don't care.
It is around six inches shorter than the 1356. So it will easily clear my frame.
It is gear driven and therefore very strong.
It is possible to Modify it for a twin stick setup. Allowing you to control each of the two shift rails (and therefore the front and rear axles) independently. Meaning you could, if you wanted too, even run only the front axle by itself. Which I think is very cool!
The only downside I can see is that it is cast iron, and effin heavy. It is meant to be partly supported by a bracket to the frame. Which I will try and imitate if I cannot find one.
Overall I am very impressed with this tcase and I think, unless any new info comes up before I get paid, that I will persue using this tcase for my setup.
Got paid today. Will get the case tomorrow hopefully. Then I gotta clean it up and notch the flange then it goes on. I'll worry about a shifter later.
Then I just gotta slap in the intake and brackets and accessories and splice some wires. Oh and I need to get the abs module from a second gen at the junk for
my speed signal.
Got paid today. Will get the case tomorrow hopefully. Then I gotta clean it up and notch the flange then it goes on. I'll worry about a shifter later.
Then I just gotta slap in the intake and brackets and accessories and splice some wires. Oh and I need to get the abs module from a second gen at the junk for
my speed signal.
