Bank 1 Sensor 2???

[1996BLKBauer]

I got my emssions requst yesterday, so it is about time I actually fix this check engine code on my Ex. the code, I cannot remember off the top of my head, but I know it said Bank 1, Sensor 2. so which sensor is it? Is there anything that could be causing this problem other then the sensor? Spark plugs are new less then 5,000 Miles ago, wires are new, no other codes present. So would just replacing the sensor fix my problem? Also, what are good brands for o2 sensors? I hear Bosch is pretty good, but never had personla expirence with them.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Check post 18

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320348

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Check post 18

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320348

thank you, I cannot really tell from the picture, where is it inreference to other things? such as driver side, etc... It seems to bee up against a frame rail.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Pull the center console and the silver plate under the carpet to get to them.

The one below the radio that the console harness is hanging down onto.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Pull the center console and the silver plate under the carpet to get to them.

The one below the radio that the console harness is hanging down onto.

Wow, seems like Alot of work, but If this gets rid of the code, it is very much worth it. Plus now I can clean my carpet real good, and add some dyna mat to prevent my truck from rattleing.

thanks Alot, i will probably be tackeling this at the end of the month during my spring break, I will update, to see how it turns out.

Also, this is one of my 3 part question, could anyhtihng else cause this code? and, what are good brand names? If anybody else reads this and knows, or if you happen to know Joe?

 

[Joe Dirt]

If you get O2's, get the Motorcraft sensors from Rock Auto. The generics (Bosch) have different tolerances and the range of readings that they find acceptable may or may not trigger a CEL on the Ex. I've seen 1/2 and 1/2- some are fine, some trigger false CEL's, but never an issue with the Motorcraft sensors. The specific units and specific wire lengths are worth the extra money, which isn't much, especially on Rock Auto.

Check this thread for more info on diagnosis:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149917

 

[1996BLKBauer]

If you get O2's, get the Motorcraft sensors from Rock Auto. The generics (Bosch) have different tolerances and the range of readings that they find acceptable may or may not trigger a CEL on the Ex. I've seen 1/2 and 1/2- some are fine, some trigger false CEL's, but never an issue with the Motorcraft sensors. The specific units and specific wire lengths are worth the extra money, which isn't much, especially on Rock Auto.

Check this thread for more info on diagnosis:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149917

Wow, You are like a one stop shop for info, thanks a ton. One more question, now that I have been shopping around on Rockauto. When it says Upstream, and downstream, I know what that means, but it says left and right, now what does that mean, do they go by the side of the truck?

Edit: On Alldata i found a part number F85Z9G444AB, I looked it up on RockAuto, and found this... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1014720, is this the correct sensor?

 

[Joe Dirt]

Part number DY1081 are the two rears that I bought.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Part number DY1081 are the two rears that I bought.

They are infact the exact same one, so for everybody the Ford part numbers F85Z9G444AB & DY1081 are the exact same thing, on the one you gave Joe, there was and alternate OEM code, which was the one I posted.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

OK, while in class today, I was able to pull the code up, thankfully it was the only code currently in the system, and the only code stored in the system. So that is always good thing.

Code I got was P0141 (Bank 1 Sensor 2), Which I did some research on and the code means pretty much that, 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction. So somewhere either an internal malfunction to the sensor, or the connection, and or the wiring is messed up.

From what I understand, a heated Oxygen Sensor has a heating element to heat up the sensor to 600 degrees F, so that the sensor will work properly, and work right away. Older vehicles did not have heated sensors, which lead to a time lag, for the whole system to be warmed up, which lead to more environmental problems at first start up.

So what I am assuming from all this information is that either my connection has become bad, or that the heating circuit has some how either just worn out, or has a open circuit.

So is the computer throwing the code because the sensor is not hot enough on first start up? because after a while, early, when it used to not have the code all the time, the light would come on, but go off after a little bit of driving. now I am figuring that the heating circuit doe not work at all, so it always has the code.

So am I understanding this OK? or am I just going crazy?

 

[bobflood]

OK, while in class today, I was able to pull the code up, thankfully it was the only code currently in the system, and the only code stored in the system. So that is always good thing.

Code I got was P0141 (Bank 1 Sensor 2), Which I did some research on and the code means pretty much that, 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction. So somewhere either an internal malfunction to the sensor, or the connection, and or the wiring is messed up.

From what I understand, a heated Oxygen Sensor has a heating element to heat up the sensor to 600 degrees F, so that the sensor will work properly, and work right away. Older vehicles did not have heated sensors, which lead to a time lag, for the whole system to be warmed up, which lead to more environmental problems at first start up.

So what I am assuming from all this information is that either my connection has become bad, or that the heating circuit has some how either just worn out, or has a open circuit.

So is the computer throwing the code because the sensor is not hot enough on first start up? because after a while, early, when it used to not have the code all the time, the light would come on, but go off after a little bit of driving. now I am figuring that the heating circuit doe not work at all, so it always has the code.

So am I understanding this OK? or am I just going crazy?

Heater circuit malfunction code usually means that he heater circuit is open. It is usually the sensor itself, but can be the connector or the wiring harness. Unplug the sensor and test for continuity thru the sensor on the heater circuit pins. If it's open, there is your issue - replace the sensor. If not, turn the ignition on with the engine cold and see if you have 12V at the wiring harness connector on the heater pins. If not, you will have to track back and find the break. Good luck.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Heater circuit malfunction code usually means that he heater circuit is open. It is usually the sensor itself, but can be the connector or the wiring harness. Unplug the sensor and test for continuity thru the sensor on the heater circuit pins. If it's open, there is your issue - replace the sensor. If not, turn the ignition on with the engine cold and see if you have 12V at the wiring harness connector on the heater pins. If not, you will have to track back and find the break. Good luck.

Thanks for the input.

What I did on Thursday is clear the code. I drove the truck from my school where i cleared the code, to my house, and to my astonishment my MPG rose from 11.9 MPG to 12.8, thats nearly one whole MPG, is this sensor being bad really messing with my gas mileage that bad? I know what you are going to ask, and no the battery has not been disconnected, so this increase happened with about 1,000 Miles on the computer. But today while drvig to get something to eat it came back on it has already gone back down to 12.4MPG.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Well I finally got around to replacing the sensor. I used a Motorcraft sensor like Joe suggested. Ran into a few problems on the way though. The center console was easy. once I got to the access plate, all the U-Nuts broke with the exception of one. so I got one off, and then bent the cover back and used some pliers to hold the now broken clips into place. Good news though my local Ace Hardware had an exact fit U-Nuts and bolts, so I spend another $5 getting those, and all was good.

After that ordeal, I went to getting the sensor off. well I broke and extension. and swore A LOT! finally I gave up, and went to my buddies house because he had a torch set. after removing the heat shield on the transmission, which gave us a lot of room, we where able to get a regular 7/8 socket over the sensor, well we did after cutting the sensor a bit. and we tried using an impact to get it off, it was a no go.

last attempts was with the torch, and thankfully after 2 times of heating and using the impact if came off.it came off, but the threads for the sensor left them self's in the hole on the cat.... So after cleaning it out, we tapped new a hole, which sucks with such a small amount of space. After tapping the hole we stated it up and let the oil we used for tapping burn off, so that the new o2 sensor would not get gummed up, or fouled out.

We put it in, tested for leaks, no leaks, plugged in a scanner, and see if it was working, thankfully it was. and then cleared the code. I have only really driven from his house, and to work once since the install, so I have not given it enough time to see if it is actually fixed. My friend said the truck does tests, and if it fails 2 out of 3 times that then it throws a code. He also said that O2 sensors take the longest to test.

I really hope nobody has to do this, because it sucked really bad. I took us from 7pm to 1:30am to replace just this one sensor. after this week I am going in for emissions, hopefully it will give the truck enough time to run the test, to see if everything is alright.

 

[Shukonda]

So....? How did the emissions go? It seems everyone gets their problem fixed but never comes back to say what the outcome was in the end after driving around a while. Please let us know how the inspection went and if you finally fixed your problem. I'm throwing a p0141 code in my 99 Explorer OHV 4.0 and getting the front drivers side O2 sensor replaced because the wire has been hitting the exhaust and has exposed the wire. I'm hoping that clears the code and I can go thru inspection. I will keep everyone updated. Thanks

 

[1996BLKBauer]

So....? How did the emissions go? It seems everyone gets their problem fixed but never comes back to say what the outcome was in the end after driving around a while. Please let us know how the inspection went and if you finally fixed your problem. I'm throwing a p0141 code in my 99 Explorer OHV 4.0 and getting the front drivers side O2 sensor replaced because the wire has been hitting the exhaust and has exposed the wire. I'm hoping that clears the code and I can go thru inspection. I will keep everyone updated. Thanks

Sorry, I have been preoccupied with work, and seeing friends and family. I did plan on doing an update, and now is as good of a time then ever. It worked! the light never came back on, went to emissions, and passed. No leaks, or codes and I have put just about 300-400 miles on it so far. In IL they plug the truck into their computer look to see if the 02 sensors are working, and if they are, you are good to go. It is not as strict as some states, like California. I have gotten slightly better MPGs as well, even in the city. good luck with your sensor, if you read above, mine was not fun at all, unless you have to do bank 2 sensor 1, I can easily see, and touch it on my truck from laying down by the drivers door.

 

[white_shadow]

Pull the center console and the silver plate under the carpet to get to them.

The one below the radio that the console harness is hanging down onto.

holy ****. i gotta do that to change the rear o2's?

 

[Shukonda]

I have a question. My code is P0141. The local auto parts store said my 99 has only 3 O2 sensors. My brother replaced the O2 sensor by the Catalytic converter under the Explorer months ago. I had someone check my front O2 sensors because the wires used to hit the exhaust and short the #13 fuse so I zip tied them out the way. Anyway, I had him look at both from O2 sensors and the drivers side wire was exposed so he wants me to replace that one. Can my P0141 code come from my front drivers side O2 sensor or do I need to replace the back one by the catalytic converter again? I need to pass inspection. Any help and info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Joe Dirt]

holy ****. i gotta do that to change the rear o2's?

No- you can pull the console with the carpet and seats in. I just used the pic from my interior cleaning since it showed the cover.

 

[bobflood]

I have a question. My code is P0141. The local auto parts store said my 99 has only 3 O2 sensors. My brother replaced the O2 sensor by the Catalytic converter under the Explorer months ago. I had someone check my front O2 sensors because the wires used to hit the exhaust and short the #13 fuse so I zip tied them out the way. Anyway, I had him look at both from O2 sensors and the drivers side wire was exposed so he wants me to replace that one. Can my P0141 code come from my front drivers side O2 sensor or do I need to replace the back one by the catalytic converter again? I need to pass inspection. Any help and info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

First - fix any wires that have been burned, etc.

P0141 is the heater circuit for Bank 1 Sensor 2. Bank 1 is the pass side; Sensor 2 is the one after the cat. If there is only one sensor after the cat, it is usually IDed as Bank 1. Find the connector and unplug it. Test the heater wires toward the sensor for continuity - if they are open then replace the sensor. If not, turn on engine while cold and see if you have 12V on the heater wires in the harness. If not, you have a break somewhere to find. Good luck.

 

[white_shadow]

well damn, thats a hell of a job just to replace the o2