All pics and info below are for a HP (High pinion) meaning when viewed from the side the center line of the pinion gear is in fact higher up in the case then a non HP housing. Now this means also that the pinion engages the ring gear on the stronger side of the gears which is highly favorable. And it also put the drive shaft higher up off the ground for better clearances from obstacles when off roading. This axle and all associated pics are from a 1979 HP Dana 44 which is a much sought after axle. It has the strongest axle tubes of all the front 44s....1/2" wall thickness on tubes, great for strength and all the associated welding that will be done. The axle is in fact in my Chopped top Bronco 2 The complete build can be seen in the Bronco 2 section. Plus there are others thee that have done or doing the same.
First of all here is a knuckle, this is the passanger side that has been modified, more on that later.
Here is a pic of the driver side knuckle that comes stock drilled for a High Steer arm. That's the curved cast part that is bolted to the top of the knuckle.
The stock curved part will be replaced later.
The passanger does not come with the flat top cause the steering hooks up differently on that side.
This will be explained later.
Again the drive side with the stock curved steering arm removed. This will be replaced with a High Steer kit that I bought from Ballistic Fabrication.
Those studs need to be removed so new studs can be installed to hold the high steer arms on. They can be really stubborn to remove.
Here's a trick that's better then anything on the market for removing rusted fasteners. A combination of Acetone and automatic tranny fluid. Mix 1 to 1, note how the fluid separates in the jar, do not use plastic it can dissolve it. Make sure if you do use this trick to mix it up until cloudy then apply and let set over night.
Then the usual cleaning of the threads so you can get some good accurate torque numbers.
Now here is where it gets tricky, again let me say that this is all on the above mentioned 79 D44, but a lot of it can apply to your situation. But I will say this, If you can find one a 44 I would suggest using it over a 30 especially in a heavy truck.
Since the passanger side does not come milled and drilled for a high steer arm, and does not come with enough metal to properly drill and tap, you need to find one. Most people use a Chevy knuckle for this that bolts right on I believe and has enough metal.
What I did was completely different and do not recommend it to anyone other then someone that knows how to go through all the procedures for welding on cast iron. But I'll go ahead a do a brief tutorial on how I used the passanger side knuckle and might note that it has stood the test of time.
Here is a highly modified passanger side knuckle that has been milled for a High Steer arm. Like I said above the knuckle does not come with enough metal on the top to drill and tap adequately to clamp on the arm.
So what i did was to post heat the arm and then build the right hand side of the knuckle with a high nickle composition welding rod. I needed about 1/4" more area on this side. After welding I covered with an insulation blanket to contain the heat, I even gave it some more heat along the way with a propane torch and let it cool slowly.
Next was that I did not like the way it had a structural flaw in the design and added a gusset on the side with all the same pre and post heating welding techniques. And then the top was milled flat.
Now if you do mill a driver side knuckle flat do not mill flat with the top of the bushing hole, you need to do the same angle that is on the driver side.
Here I'm measuring the driver side angle of the new arm and will transfer this to the passanger side knuckle.
Note the slight angle milling of the Ballistic arm, it come this way from Ballistic. This is done to compensate for the angle in the top of the knuckles. Remember what I said about the angle of the milled knuckle. This helps in the strength of the TRE also. I used Chevy K20 TRE on mine and have great strength and working angles.
And here is the middle hole layed out on passanger side with the added welded on part to the right, can't even tell it's been welded.
But like I said, I do not recommend the modifications that I did. But I have confidence in my welding and the way it's been reinforced that it's stronger then stock.
Here is a High Steer Modified D44. Note the same a shallow angle on the track and drag link. Paid off in no bump steer and handles like a dream on the road.
A tremendous amount of time and work went into that including the fact...where is the stock engine brace that goes under the engine?
Even though this is a 44 and not a 30, a lot of it is the same terminology and work required. Hope I explained a few things.
Once i go to the d60 up front, a lot of it still is the same working format.
