Harsh ride

[Campoli]

The X is riding rough everything looks fine but is there a way to check tierod ends or control arms or what else could it be??

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Your shocks could be worn out, which could cause a harsh ride...

 

[Campoli]

They are new all five that's why I'm thinking tie rods or control arms

 

[1996BLKBauer]

You might actually be used to the old shocks, What Shocks are designed to do is limit the amount of oscillations that the springs produce. So instead of bouncing 5 or 6 times, it bounces only one or two times. The new shocks are going to limit the amount of bounces you get after riding over a bump. They make different shocks for different applications, some make the ride more smooth, and some just get down to business, like the Monroe sensatraks, where they leave one, to one and a half bounces after a bump, My buddies say that I have a harsh ride in my Explorer, but I am actually saving the springs, and keeping the wheels planted to the ground for better traction, and stability.

 

[Campoli]

Oh I understand that 100% I have bilstien heavy dutys in the front and sensa Trac load adjusters in the rear for about 3 months now but it's different now it sways a bit I'd shimmies its not the shocks that's a fact I thought a blown tie rid but they look fine
It's not the good hard ride its a harsh is my tire gonna fall the fùćk off type ride and since its my wife DD I need to figure it out ASAP

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Oh I understand that 100% I have bilstien heavy dutys in the front and sensa Trac load adjusters in the rear for about 3 months now but it's different now it sways a bit I'd shimmies its not the shocks that's a fact I thought a blown tie rid but they look fine
It's not the good hard ride its a harsh is my tire gonna fall the fùćk off type ride and since its my wife DD I need to figure it out ASAP

Ah, I see. Got ya. How do your sway bars look? I see A LOT of sway bar end links where the bushing is just gone, Also the bushings that attach it to the frame of the truck can go bad, and can cause some issues. A shimmy can be caused by many things, wheel bearings, worn out inner, or outter tie rod ends. I usually measure these things with a dial caliper, and I understand that many people don't have this tool, so usually if you see ripped, or missing boots on the tierods, or you can move the wheel when it is in the air in all direction, while pushing or pulling on it, that usually tells you what the problem is. Ball joints too, but those are pretty easy to spot, ripped boots, ot a creaking noise usually alerts me. then of course there is the real way, again with a dial caliper, and a huge pry bar.

 

[Campoli]

I have one I think it looks like a clamp but its flat steel or is that a micrometer sh¡t I can't remember but what and I gauging ?? And what's worn lol
Ill have to recheck all my boots and bushings tomorrow after I wash it see what I can see

 

[1996BLKBauer]

I have one I think it looks like a clamp but its flat steel or is that a micrometer sh¡t I can't remember but what and I gauging ?? And what's worn lol
Ill have to recheck all my boots and bushings tomorrow after I wash it see what I can see

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMgXGedDffw

It's a good video, sort of dry, and to the point, but still very useful. When I said dial caliper, I meant to say dial indicator. I was just using the caliper to measure my exhaust, so it was on my mind. A micrometer is to measure size of an object... What you do it say on a ball joint you anchor the dial indicator to say the lower control arm, then set it properly to stud on the ball joint, then with the tire in the air, you pry the bottom side of the tire upward, and see how much play you have, manufacturers usually have a certain amount of play that you can have, before the ball joint is considered worn out. This is the real way to do this, although most people never do it, usually because you can feel movement, or the boot is ripped.

 

[JusTheUsual]

sway bar link ends or tie rod ends, doubt its your ball joints, that's your answer

 

[swshawaii]

Don't understand the connection of sway bar end links or tie rods causing a harsh ride. The OP did at least a 2" TT with warrior lift shackles, added Bilstein HD front shocks, and rear Monroe 58617 load adjusters on the rear that are known for stiffness unloaded. Your ride is rough because of steep control arm angles, lift shackles, reduced travel, and firmer shocks.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3170363&postcount=16
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385489

 

[Campoli]

Don't understand the connection of sway bar end links or tie rods causing a harsh ride. The OP did at least a 2" TT with warrior lift shackles, added Bilstein HD front shocks, and rear Monroe 58617 load adjusters on the rear that are known for stiffness unloaded. Your ride is rough because of steep control arm angles, lift shackles, reduced travel, and firmer shocks.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3170363&postcount=16
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385489

I still haven't gotten the bushings so no TT or shackles yet that's why I need to figure this out

 

[Campoli]

I believe this is my problem this bushing

What is it can't find it in my book

 

[OffTrac]

That's a problem for sure. I wouldn't say it's THE problem though. Fixing that should actually make the ride more stiff.

Those are Moog. I've had two sets of those do that exact thing. I'm done with their bushings. Purchased Energy Suspension bushings to use with Moog hardware but the sway bar is currently removed.

 

[Campoli]

Moog??
So what bushing is it

 

[Campoli]

The brand is moog ??

 

[delexploder]

Those are Moog brand swaybar endlinks. If they come apart ok you should be able to get the end link bushings from any parts store . Advance autozone ect. They pretty much all have a energy suspension section near the trailer junk or performance junk and they come in packs of 4. Or just get new end link kits for around $20 bucks. Or go to the counter if you want to order OE or more Moog brand . I would also look at the various other suspension parts and there bushings as i have found that when you put new parts on the suspension you usually end up doing it all because it all works together and the weak link will keep showing till its all new.

 

[Campoli]

Stiffness isn't my problem tho its the shimmy from side to side
I've checked all the other bushings just those on both sides look dry rot the one in the pic was there but I touched it and it fell off all others including boots look fine

Just took it for another ride it feels sloppy and loose like it needs stiffening up so I guess I'll be heading to the auto parts store when I have time to replace them
Should I just buy the bushing kit or get new end links??
That's what they are correct sway bar end link bushings??

 

[OffTrac]

Right. You just need the endlink bushings. Moog uses larger hardware so you either need to get replacement Moog bushings, drill out Energy Suspension bushings to fit the current hardware or get new endlinks altogether. They should firm up the sloppiness.

 

[Campoli]

If those are deff moog ill just replace them w moog and go from there thanks for the help
Is it a b¡tch to replace or just straight forawd remove replace

Just called my auto parts shop good friends w the owner and his daughter
New end links $14 a pop can't beat that w a stick

 

[swshawaii]

These may be the last front sway bar end link bushings you will ever need. (9.8103G)
Installation can be tricky because they are taller in height than the soft Moog bushings.
I suggest placing the bolt heads on the bottom with a floor jack to start the nuts . GL

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3018342&postcount=13