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Newb audio question

speedytriple

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July 22, 2014
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City, State
Cleveland, Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 sport trac 4x4
So I just found out my trac has the factory sub woofer, but it was replaced by a after market one. How hard would it be to add a amp to push the aftermarket sub closer to it level while still running the stock head? It is way under powered and has no bass. it looks like a 12" sub I think I don't know what they came with stock and know the box is way to small for any real deep sound. I have a amp but need to know if it is easy to add a bigger amp to push the sub.
 



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You can run an amp and keep your factory head unit, its what I'm doing now. But you have a problem; with such limited space the aftermarket sub will sound awful. The best solution I've seen and the option I went with is the JL 10TW1. Its a 10" subwoofer that only needs a sealed encloser volume of .35cu ft /9.91L. I'm not saying some sound guy cant make a box that will fit for the 12" you currently have, but I'm sure it wasn't designed for it.

http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw1-4-car-audio-tw1-subwoofer-drivers-92186
 






My JL setup: Front- C3 5x7 Rear- TR 5x7 Sub- 10TW1 Amp-JX360/4 COST- under $1500
My fronts and sub run off the AMP and my rears run off the amp in factory head unit.

BTW- When you turn the car off or take the key out you normally will still be able to hear the radio for a few minutes, but with a sound system the amp shuts off if the key is not in the accessory position. By running my rear speakers off the stock head unit I at least can her some tunes while I'm sitting in the car without killing the battery.
 






I use to design and build my own boxes so that's not a problem. I am thinking about moving the 12" sub to a box mounted under the rear seats. With the right box fired toward the seat with the port facing forward I think I could get some bass back. I just wanted to know if it is worth it to try to hook up a amp to the factory wiring or just run new stuff.
 






Yes you can hook up a different/more efficient amp. You'll have to use the OEM speaker wires and hook hook them up to in inline-level converter or buy an amp that already accepts low-level input. Before all this though, you'll need to determine where the "accessory power" AKA, amp turn on/off will come from. That might be more of a challenge since you dont want your amp on all the time.

I just complete the installation of my entire system. Front components, rear coaxials, 10", and a 5-channel amp all driven by a Pioneer AVIC-z130bt. Well worth all the trouble...
 






Well I just got fed up and pulled the 12 out today. I ordered a polk audio 8 inch db series and am going to build a box for it. I will see what it sounds like on the factory amp first. If it is underpowered I will wire up my after market amp and use that.
 






Well I just got fed up and pulled the 12 out today. I ordered a polk audio 8 inch db series and am going to build a box for it. I will see what it sounds like on the factory amp first. If it is underpowered I will wire up my after market amp and use that.

I hope the best for you triple, but am afraid, simply changing the sub and making a box will not fit your needs long term wise.
 






Yeah I am already planning on wiring up the amp to power the new sub I just hope I can get the sound I am after with it. The 8 is 150 rms and the amp I have is also 150 rms bridged. I hope it gives the sound I am after. I tied a 100 watt rms house sub to see what it sounded like on the factory amp it was ok but still under powered. Looking like I need to order a low power converter for the amp.
 






Well the new sub showed up in the mail today. I will be building a box for it behind the seat and adding a amp over the next few days. I need to run out and get supplies in the morning. I got a polk audio db 8 inch sub 350 peak 180 rms. I don't think the stock amp will push it. Gonna give it a try before I wire up the amp, but I think the amp will be needed.

post-10447-0-11573100-1406700077.jpg
 






Good choice. I run Polk's all around, been a huge fan for years.:thumbsup:
 






Almost done with the box. next is sealing it up and seeing how it sounds. I got port specs if I think it needs it but am starting out sealed.
 






Keep us updated...I'll be finalizing my install this weekend, will update my thread.
 






Db840 ??
 






Yeah think it is the 840? It is a 4 ohm 300 watt 8 inch speaker. I got the box built and a new amp for it. Found a kenwood kac 1502s 350 watt amp at the fleamarket today like new for $20 hooked it all up and found out my level converter is not working... It did not have the factory wiring plug with it so I ordered one today from kenwood. I hate waiting for things to get finished. Box sounds good on my old house receiver that is 100 watts. Here is a pic of the box I built for it in the trac.

post-10447-0-87063900-1407726633.jpg
 






So I found that the seat was blocking much of the subs sound. I added a port and tuned it. I got much better overall sound now. Nice deep lows and hits nice and hard. Pretty happy with the over all sound for now. I have a total of $80 total invested in the box build, sub, amp, and level converter.

post-10447-0-93492200-1407942686.jpg
 






Port ended up being a little long for the box and had port noise. I pulled it out twice and found the sweet spot. You can see the marks where I moved it up with the liquid nail I use to seal it. Now I have a nice tight box no air leaks and no port noise, just clean bass. I might sand the corners and round them off and paint it to match the black rubber behind it with some plasti dip. Gonna plasti dip the side rails and need it anyways.
 






Alright update on my project. I have everything installed but am getting no sound from the speaker. Amp seems to have power the power light is on. I used the factory wiring from the stock amp to power it. I tried using the speaker wires to run to the low level converter. Do i need to run it off the rear speaker wire maybe? About to give up its been weeks of trying to figure it oug.
 






Where is the input signal to the amp coming from? The previous stock sub speaker?
This may sound elementary, but without an input signal to the amp, you'll have no output.
 






Ford HU only supplies 5v on the remote line most aftermarket is 12v. you sure the amp is turning on even though it has VCC? Try shorting removing the remote voltage from the amp and connect VCC to the remote in on the amp. If it turns on you will have to run a higher voltage line to the remote.
 



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Remote power is coming from the low level converter it has a wire coming out of it. The amp power light is coming on when this wire is running to it. The signal is coming from the factory wiring harness that is being run to a low level converter, then rca cables to the amp. I have already replaced the signal converter thinking it might be bad. New rca cables also, tried two different amps. One amp produces no sound at all, the other just makes a buzzing sound out of the sub then the amp goes into protection mode.
 






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