Lower Intake Gasket

[Number4]

I've got a one piece lower intake gasket and I DO NOT like it.

What do you have to do, bend it to make it set flat? The damn ports barely line up. I'm afraid if it moves the slightest it'll not seal.

Just put the heads on, haven't torqued anything because of this gasket.
Should I wait till tomorrow and get the two piece set?



This link was available in another thread (posted by [MENTION=638]RangerX[/MENTION]) it shows intake gaskets that seem better than what I have and what came off.
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/40LIntakeGasketReplacement.pdf

From this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292913

 

[RangerX]

Haha, I was just about to link you those threads!!
What brand gasket do you have?

 

[Number4]

I have an old Victor Reinz head set that I picked up free 8 or so years ago.

Looks like the 1995 intake gasket is an improved design as a one piece.

 

[Number4]

I'm thinking this gasket (MS946821) for a 95+ must work for a 94 if this gasket (MS98005T) fits the 4.0 from 90-97.

 

[jd4242]

I use to put on edge of table with a 2x4 on it and slowly bend it..i have found the 2 piece ones harder to keep in place when putting the lower on..they do fit better though. .dont forget to use plenty of rtv on the end valleys and double check the tq on what bolts you can easily get to after aome driving or hours running. .they tend to come loose

 

[natenkiki2004]

I would stop and order a Magnum MS18142 gasket set from Rock Auto. Those 1-piece designs suck, especially that kind you have. It will leak again in a few years. The Magnum style is silicone on metal and has little hangers that rest on the intake ports so they stay in place while you lower the intake manifold. For the parts inbetween the gaskets, use Permatex The Right Stuff. I also used some on either side of the water jacket portion. You'll curse it if you ever have to take the heads off but I'd bet money that it won't leak on you.

Take a look:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/Valvetrain/P1020924.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/Valvetrain/P1020925.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/464376/vehicles/1991 Explorer/Pictures/Valvetrain/P1020926.JPG

 

[jd4242]

Felpro has stopped making the 1 piece and gone to a 2 piece just like the pictures. .the rangers dont have one stud in front and rear so the 1 piece gaskets like to move around..

 

[2stroke]

I just bought a Felpro lower intake gasket. It is a one piece, but it is different than the one in the pictures. The entire center is one piece, not cut out like that one. Also, you need RTV on the sides of the valley, where yours already has it in place. I'm guessing its just a poor quality gasket. The Felpro one is heavy duty. The thing feels like its 5 pounds, and its thick. It went on with no problems at all, it lined up great, and I have not had a single problem.

 

[Number4]

[MENTION=235549]2stroke[/MENTION] what was the part number of the gasket you got. I want this done today so I'm going to have to get something local.

I'm going to compare a '99 4.0's to the '94. It's different and cheaper. I'll find out the differences.

 

[2stroke]

I got it from rockauto as a set with both upper and lower gaskets. Part number MS94682.

Here is the link...

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=125557&cc=1190708&jnid=487&jpid=4

 

[Number4]

Lower Intake installation per manual?

I have a '94 4.0 and I just picked up the felpro lower intake gasket for a '97. Can someone tell me what the 'Haynes' manual says about installation?

Mine was a cardboard style gasket and required rtv in places. The '97+ is metal with rubber, so I'm wondering if the rtv is needed.

Also, what's the head and intake torque steps if you would. I'd like to compare to the first gen.

 

[Number4]

Okay, so I picked up a lower intake gasket for a '97. Have to do multiple posts as pictures upload with same name.

 

[Number4]

The only difference I really see is the rear water jacket ports are blocked off. But when you look at the underside of the intake, they're blocked off (don't go anywhere) anyways.

 

[Number4]

If you think about it, gasket makers try to duplicate gaskets for the year of production. So it makes sense that they would differ but should still work.....right? Ford obviously upgraded due to issues over the years. The two piece design (after after market) transcends the 1st and 2nd gen.

My question now (which I posted here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3424633#post3424633 ) is whether or not the rtv is need or if torque changed.

 

[Number4]

Well, sometimes Google is sufficient when used.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/s420/2010-01-05_182358_97_Explorer_4.0_ohv_lower_intake_man.pdf


Anyone add anything to this at all?

 

[Number4]

deleted, had to do with content posted in the 2nd gen section.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Use RTV, preferably Permatex The Right Stuff. A thin layer on either side of the flat spot of the valley and around the water jackets. Leave the intake runners alone. The Right Stuff will make a better seal than the gasket and chances are good that you won't have to go back in there again unless you have to take off a head.

There's a reason they call it The Right Stuff. It's made of pure awesome or pure devil excrement, depending on which side of the job you're on. The previous owner of my Explorer used it on the rear differential cover. I spent about an hour and a half just trying to remove the cover. With as good as it is, you probably don't even need any bolts

If you don't like the cost of The Right Stuff, keep in mind that it will store excellently. I did my lower intake gasket and then about 2 weeks later did the rear diff cover. I only had to peel off a tiny pea-sized amount off the tip of the tube and the rest was fresh. Once you use it, you won't go back.



Also, Ford found out that the rubber/silicone on metal makes more a better gasket but they probably still use the one-piece just to make engine assembly faster. It means they don't have to use RTV and it just drops right in, making the job much quicker for mass-production.

 

[Number4]

Thanks [MENTION=241671]natenkiki2004[/MENTION]. I had decided to dive in. For so reason I found this to be highly stressful. More so than doing the timing tensioners in my '04 4.6l.

Partly I suppose because you won't know if it all went well until it's back in and running.

I'd thought about buying or building an engine test stand. Would if I had a welder.

Here are a couple of videos I watched leading up to this. One is by [MENTION=229411]makuloco2000[/MENTION] the other some goofy guy who I feel does a good job of conveying the message.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy5p-cUge5s

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=06l5jHMZt0Y

 

[2stroke]

I'm not sure what is so stressful. I did mine with the engine in the truck, everything dirty, full of water and everything. The only problem I had is I dumped a bunch of water in the oil when I took the intake off. I never use RTV on gaskets, and have been taught to do so since I was young. I want an even seal over the gasket, RTV can cause one side to "warp" or not seal right. The felpro gasket already has the sealant on the gasket, there is no need for more. Plus RTV in the cooling system is bad news. It looks like you did a fine job though.