koda2000
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- September 2, 2011
- Messages
- 13,874
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What's a windshield running you? Last I checked, was quoted 230+, yikes.
Was the rear bumper as easy as they say- using floor jack to lift/level after you loosen (2 bolts per side)? I need to do this, it's only minimal but it bothers me.
Nice clean engine, how much did you dilute? Would be a cheaper solution to that gunk cleaner I have been using.
Windshield:
The cheapest windshield price I found was $168 and I'd have to drive 50 miles one-way and hang around while they did it. This local guy comes to my tire place and does it, I just drop the truck off and go get it when it's done. He charges $224, which is very reasonable from what I've seen. Compared to the prices I've paid for new classic car windshields, $224 sounds cheap to me... LOL.
BTW, some Pull-A-Parts have guy's on-site that will install used windows/windshields for cheap.
Purple Power:
I don't dilute it at all. I clip 55 gallon trash bags over the fenders, grille and cowl/bottom of the windshield first to avoid getting the cleaner where I don't want it. I used a small pump sprayer, fill it about 3/4's (to allow room for air) pump it up about 40 pumps, spray it on a slightly warm engine and spray it everywhere except the alternator. To get particularly dirty areas I adjust the sprayer to "stream". Then I let it sit a while (not long enough to let it start to dry, maybe 5-7 mins) if you see it starting to dry, re-spray it to keep it wet. After letting it sit I use an old 5" paintbrush to get the stubborn stuff moving, Spray it down one more time, then rinse with a medium pressure hose. I use shop air to blow out as much water as I can (a shop vac on exhaust also works). Then I start the engine and let it get up to full operating temp while I finish up with some of those small white cleaning towels (a large bundle is like $8 at Walmart). After removing the trash bags, I do the painted underside of the hood, fender edges and rad support by hand, so as not to get overspray on the exterior paint.
I find PP works much better than gunk, is biodegradable and doesn't have that gunk smell when your done.
This is the second time I've cleaned an Explorer engine compartment this way and it's worked really well. Below is a pic of the engine on my '97 Sport (with close to 250,000 miles) after cleaning. Looks pretty damn good, no?
Cleaned '97 Sport Engine:
Walmart sells the 2 gallon jug of PP for under $12, or you can buy Castrol Super Clean (same stuff) sold right next to PP for $21.
Rear Bumper Adjustment:
Mine had taken a shot and the front of the bumper ends were touching the bottom of the bed sides. The trailer ball was also visibly pushed down. I just loosened the 4 bracket mounting bolts, put a deep socket on the trailer ball nut, followed by a piece of 4x4 and 2x4 on top of my floor jack (for adequate height) and jacked it up straight. The retightened the bolts. Easy.
Tip: The bumper bolts tend to be really tight. Use a 1/2 ratchet and a cheater pipe to loosen/retighten.
When my wife's Mountaineer got rear-ended it bent the brackets (didn't damage the bumper at all). I replaced them, but it still was not 100%, so I used some shims between the bracket and the bumper to get it perfect.