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over greased balljoin

Danil

Member
Joined
July 31, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Novosibirsk
Year, Model & Trim Level
U2 2000
Hi, is any bade have this problem?

at my truck, EXP U2, the seal of ball join is craks and grease is gettin out///

May be, some body know, part number of seal of moof ball join k8695t, or it non replasable?

i wroute about this problem to MOOG !
 



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As long as there is still grease in there I wouldn't worry about it. On a vehicle this age it's usually just a sign of overfilling. I"d replace the ball joint, and boot, if/when it fails.
 






As long as there is still grease in there I wouldn't worry about it. On a vehicle this age it's usually just a sign of overfilling. I"d replace the ball joint, and boot, if/when it fails.

ok, but it is new ball/j, less one year afte installation, that worry me)

i thing it need only one grease injection, i see the little hole at seal, whitch appear afte over grease ! that is bad/

it strange, that moog do not have the manual about grease injection
 






we always thing that after each swiming need to use grease gun, but i think it it not true(

4OWbrE0grOI.jpg
 






Usually the grease will go out when is warm outside and then stop. You shouldn't pump grease in there until it bursts, this is valid for every grease-able joint ever made, on every car, no need for "special" manual.
 






Usually the grease will go out when is warm outside and then stop. You shouldn't pump grease in there until it bursts, this is valid for every grease-able joint ever made, on every car, no need for "special" manual.

ok. but how much grease it depent from human factor )

and the other man can pump different volume of, greas.

i think if the seal is not looks like balllon , grease is need to add)
 






Usually the grease will go out when is warm outside and then stop. You shouldn't pump grease in there until it bursts, this is valid for every grease-able joint ever made, on every car, no need for "special" manual.

This is what I used to think but I did some research a year or so ago and found this. (proving you can teach an old dog new tricks - if they do a little research)

http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27046_ES3609_ENG-R.pdf

Which is discussed at the end of this video from Moog.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j50h8QaLaIk

And now if you really want to be shocked these came on the ball joints for my Lower control arms:

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/7647/integral-dust-boot

So for moog dust boots the "older" version has a built in pressure release valve to let excess grease escape. And the newer version with its integral boot will look like it doesn't even have a dust boot.
 






And I'll just add that it looks like the new integral dust boot is designed to have grease flow out between the boot and the shaft to help seal it up. I gave mine a few pumps until grease started escaping.
 






ok. but how much grease it depent from human factor )
Well, that's what is called know-how. You need to study before doing repairs, those are not intended for untrained persons (like a janitor or trash collector).
I am pumping grease until the bellows (accordion part) starts to expand and become inflated.
For the parts that don't have that accordion (they are smooth looking), then Moog has that relief gate, and then you can pump until grease come out.
 






Moog needed to redesign the dust boots on their very popular K8695T after many reported failures.
I've never seen ANY major suspension brand offer replacement dust boots separately. Tie rods, etc.

Moog k8695t lower ball joint redesign
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428640
 






My 93 Honda had dust boots available separately through a company called Febest, made in Germany. Was about $12 shipping through Amazon. Not the easiest to find but it does exist at least for certain makes and models.

If the joint is still in good condition, it's far easier to just replace the boot.
 






join is ok) but boot is nonreturnable,, and i simply use grease gun more often then usualy,

PS that is the answer from MOOG

"I was taught to fill the ball joint when the boot started to expand and stop. No more. Any more and the boot could burst. I would recommend every 2nd or 3rd oil change at minimum . "
 






i ask at this topic )

What about MOOG stabilyser bat bushing, and MOOG, stabylaiser bar link bushing !!!

They are gonna die at 500-1000 km !!!

Is that MOOG quality?

the original ford bushing live, take 180000 KM, and they are still low good condition!!!

After the replasement, i need to replace bushing evry 1000 km )))

i cut off the stabylaiser, but i think it is not right metod/

any bodu know the tirght metod fote this problem)

Front Sway Bar End Link MOOG-K7275

Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings MOOG-K80082
 






I have Moog (Problem Solver) on my car and they lasted more than that. Are your Moog originals?

Why did you cut the link? When removing the stabilizer link, don't lift one side of the car more than the other, it will put torsion on the bar and pressure on the links.
Jack it up, remove wheel, then lower it a little, until is level and no pressure is left on the links. Use the jack stand under car for back-up (safety).
 






I have Moog (Problem Solver) on my car and they lasted more than that. Are your Moog originals?

Why did you cut the link? When removing the stabilizer link, don't lift one side of the car more than the other, it will put torsion on the bar and pressure on the links.
Jack it up, remove wheel, then lower it a little, until is level and no pressure is left on the links. Use the jack stand under car for back-up (safety).

Moog from rockauto,, i hope ot original/

about cut the link, i wrote, thar i change every 1000 km, link bushing,,, example

bushings.jpg
 


















join is ok) but boot is nonreturnable,, and i simply use grease gun more often then usualy,

PS that is the answer from MOOG

"I was taught to fill the ball joint when the boot started to expand and stop. No more. Any more and the boot could burst. I would recommend every 2nd or 3rd oil change at minimum . "

There's the thing, if the boot is expanded from grease still, there is no minimum interval. Pumping more grease in as if you think you are obligated to, just overfills it although some Moog boots and probably others, have an over-pressure pseudo-valve molded in to let excess grease out which changes things a little as this provides a crude way of flushing out some debris.

On most vehicles I've serviced, I find there is very little grease loss and it could be several years between losing enough grease that they need refilled. Granted the majority of those were street only vehicles which presumably had less ball joint travel.
 






There's the thing, if the boot is expanded from grease still, there is no minimum interval. Pumping more grease in as if you think you are obligated to, just overfills it although some Moog boots and probably others, have an over-pressure pseudo-valve molded in to let excess grease out which changes things a little as this provides a crude way of flushing out some debris.

On most vehicles I've serviced, I find there is very little grease loss and it could be several years between losing enough grease that they need refilled. Granted the majority of those were street only vehicles which presumably had less ball joint travel.

0R0fbb27_pE.jpg


boot blast,,

that is the moog answer !

I was taught to fill the ball joint when the boot started to expand and stop. No more. Any more and the boot could burst. I would recommend every 2nd or 3rd oil change at minimum .
Edwin Lingle
Customer service Specialist

, and about bushing is no coments

"Moog parts should last as long as the OEM parts. This all depends on the road conditions and driver. "

OEM parts 170000 KM, MOOG part 500 km. "dont make me laugh"
 



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Ah, I have replaced the whole link. This is what I have used on my 2001 V8:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4202718&cc=1372429&jnid=507&jpid=17

On this link it says - Socket-style sway bar links are made with durable powdered-metal bearings that can withstand much greater loads without deforming like plastic bearings do.

When I click on Add To Cart it says, Front; Includes Polyurethane Bushings And Solid Metal Sleeve For Enhanced Performance. Barrel Nut Allows For Easier Installation.

Which is it? Sintered metal or PU?
 






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