$125 sh#tbox

[RedBowTies88]

Well, the current low low price of scrap has at least one decent benefit.

Picked this old girl up at a municipal auction for $125 out the door. A former police vehicle with 83k miles, two shot front tires, a leaky exhaust manifold and a cracked windshield.

It was in service for about 10 years and sat for around 5 judging by the last valid inspection sticker. As far as I can figure it must of been a supervisor vehicle because of the low miles and the fact that it was never caged but was lit and came with a shotgun lock mounted to the rear cargo area. Luckily when they cut (more like hacked) out all the wiring for the lights it doesn't appear that they damaged any of the vehicle wiring and everything works other than the rear defroster and OD shutoff switch. Unfortunately they destroyed the paint removing the decals.

I got it home, had a friend replace the passenger side exhaust manifold, repair 2 broken brake lines, replace the driver side axle seal and throw on a new diff cover and changed the oil to fresh synthetic. All that along with 2 new to me front tires and this hunk of turds actually drives fairly decent!

I plan on doing a lot more freshening up and I wanted to ask your opinion on a few things.

1. All the ball joints are toasty. They're not making noise but every single boot is ripped and they appear to be original. Is the upper joint removeable from the factory control arm? All the parts listed on rock auto say they will not work with the stock UCA.

2. The radiator isn't leaking but is crusty, for a piece of mind I would like to replace it. Mostly for the sake of the trans cooling more than the coolant. I have 0 faith in and no love for auto transmissions. Is there a recommended replacement for the rad?

3. I'm going to change the thermostat to 174*. Unless you guys think that's a bad idea?

4. Transmission shifts well for now and the fluid appears to be clean and not burned at all. Should I drain and refill with fresh and risk loosening something up or just let it ride? If I should replace it what fluid do you guys recommend?

5. Im thinking of adding the load lift rear shocks from Monroe. Does any here have any experiance with them? I 'm going to replace the fronts with KYG gas-a-Justs.

6. Going to do plugs and wires, was planning on purchasing NGK because they've always been good to me on other vehicles unless you guys have a better suggestion.

7. This thing desperately needs a rear anti-sway bar. What brands/models have you guys had good luck with? Another concern is I want to add a hitch receiver but don't want the anti-sway bar to interfere with it.

I'm sure I'll think of more things to ask as I dig into it. I'd never thought I'd see myself in an exploder but so far I'm actually digging it.

 

[drdoom]

Use Motorcraft plugs. And I would not recommend changing the thermostat temperature. The KYBs will be excellent for the front. Go ahead and change the transmission fluid and filter. Add an external transmission cooler if it does not already have one.

 

[drdoom]

Is it RWD?

 

[RedBowTies88]

Use Motorcraft plugs. And I would not recommend changing the thermostat temperature. The KYBs will be excellent for the front. Go ahead and change the transmission fluid and filter. Add an external transmission cooler if it does not already have one.

Ok thanks. It's a 4x4 4.0 auto. Sorry I thought I had a signature filled out but I must of forgotten to save it.

Do you have to drop the pan on these transmissions or is there a drain plug?

 

[Explodr94]

Use Motorcraft plugs. And I would not recommend changing the thermostat temperature. The KYBs will be excellent for the front. Go ahead and change the transmission fluid and filter. Add an external transmission cooler if it does not already have one.

Second this, Fords like to run warm and motorcraft parts seem to work best. Also you can pick up ball joints and a-arms at Rock-Auto for a pretty reasonable price. Basically you can make your own suspension kit. I would recommend changing your camber bolts while you're in there to improve alignments. I believe they have kits for that also. 83,000 is a baby for that Explorer.

 

[RedBowTies88]

Second this, Fords like to run warm and motorcraft parts seem to work best. Also you can pick up ball joints and a-arms at Rock-Auto for a pretty reasonable price. Basically you can make your own suspension kit. I would recommend changing your camber bolts while you're in there to improve alignments. I believe they have kits for that also. 83,000 is a baby for that Explorer.

Thanks.

The alignment is spot on and all the tire rod ends are tight so I was hoping if possible I could just replace the upper ball joint without removing the UCA so I don't have to get an alignment.

Is that possible on these? Or are the stock joints built into the arms?

Any thoughts on the radiator? I believe it has the 2" channels. Rock auto lists some for about $100 but if you guys are having better luck with a specific brand I'll go that way.

 

[drdoom]

Ok on ControlTrac (4x4 auto) you must replace tires in sets of four.

 

[drdoom]

You have to drop the pan. Disconnect the front driveshaft at the differential and tie it up and out of the way. Wrap the cat in aluminum foil then drop the pan.

 

[sirdigalot]

for a buck twenty five? hell i would have sold my granny for that.... and maybe had change!

my only thing with the thermostat is that they usually design the engine to work in the stock range, which is why i do not always like moving out of that range high or low, unless you live in a hot part of the world it probably is worth keeping oem specs... but i have been known to be wrong (and drunk) so maybe ignore me *LOL*

 

[koda2000]

You have to drop the trans pan and it's one messy job. I added a plug to mine afterwards. Don't use a 174 t-stat. Stay with the 192-195. Use Motorcraft (or Autolite) plugs and wires. Minimum of platinum plugs.

 

[J_C]

There's no rear sway bar at all? Could it just need links and bushings redone?

 

[RedBowTies88]

Ok thanks for all the advice guys.

I should of been more clear, it desperately needs a rear sway bar that works! The links and bushings on the stock one are surprisingly in good shape, but this thing is super loose out back. It's causes the weight to shift pretty violently back and fourth during any kind of maneuvering and the front end likes to push. I think a good stiff rear sway bar will remedy the understeer porblem. I know it's never going to be a sports car but I see a lot of room for improvement. The shocks I'm sure will help also.

The tires have very similar trend depth within a Few 32nd's front to back. I don't believe they're any more dissimilar than A normal set of tires would become over their lifespan with less then regular rotations. When I first picked it up both front tires were completely bald (and flat) so who knows how long they had been running it that way.

I plan on doing the brown wire mod asap as well.

Any preference on transmission fluid?

Any thoughts on the radiator? I don't want to sound like a broken record but I do want to get one ordered.

Also I'll get me a 190 t-stat. It just runs warm enough to make me nervous. I guess I shouldn't worry about it.

Thanks again.

 

[drdoom]

Put a ProComp add a leaf on, it will make it handle much better. Perhaps the coilover shocks will do the same, but those I have not personally tried.

 

[drdoom]

Make sure to use MercV ATF.

 

[RedBowTies88]

Put a ProComp add a leaf on, it will make it handle much better. Perhaps the coilover shocks will do the same, but those I have not personally tried.

I was actually planning on using the air shocks from Monroe. I don't think the car really needs any more spring for unloaded driving, it's just the sway that kills me. Hellwig makes an aftermarket bar that seems to have good reviews. I'm going to see if any other companies do as well.

Thanks for letting me know the ATF spec.

 

[RedBowTies88]

I was actually planning on using the air shocks from Monroe. I don't think the car really needs any more spring for unloaded driving, it's just the sway that kills me. Hellwig makes an aftermarket bar that seems to have good reviews. I'm going to see if any other companies do as well.

Thanks for letting me know the ATF spec.

Btw, do you know the fluid capacity with a drain/refill?

 

[drdoom]

3.5 quarts for a pan drop.

 

[J_C]

1) If this was a police vehicle, it may have meticulous records. If you don't have them, see if you can acquire them.

2) "The links and bushings on the stock one are surprisingly in good shape, but this thing is super loose out back."
If they have not been replaced at least once (per #1 above, recorded as having been replaced, then no, they are not in good shape by now. They might look okay to the naked eye, but they are play on a vehicle like this if you want a controlled ride. It will never be a sports car, but it's one of a few areas the extra play in suspension adds up and this one, is not very expensive per the improvement amount.

3) Some say coil-over shocks are too harsh, but one thing they do, do, is provide a multi-link connection to spring suspension. They provide more side to side sway reduction than the equivalent spring improvement from refurbishing the stock springs. Note that the ride was not ideal from the factory. I remember how mine rode when new and it always rode better with a few hundred lbs load in the back. Regardless, measure the ride height. If the rear is sagging like it eventually does, you have unequal suspension and load dampening.

Then again, it could be that the main problem with your particular specimen is side to side rocking and a beefier sway bar and new bushings and links is exactly the right move to make, to keep a softer ride but minimizing rocking back and forth, but I still think at least the spring bushings are a cost effective change towards your goal, as well as new shocks.

3) Did the rear axle dampener shock (5th shock) ever get replaced? Do that if not. Rear end improvements require that to be right.

4) Forget all that I just wrote. It was a bargain as a $125 fixer upper but only if you do minimum time and parts to get it back to serviceable condition rather than trying to get it better than brand new handling.

 

[koda2000]

Re the rear sway bar... I have 7 Explorer's, Mountaineer's and a Sport Trac in the family now in every configuration offered, except a true 4x4. All have the OE rear sway bars with good links, bushings, shocks (and 5th shock where applicable) and I have no issues with "rear sway". I suggest you do a close examination of all the rear suspension components and replace whats worn/broken before buying aftermarket parts. They should not be necessary for daily driving.

 

[RedBowTies88]

1) If this was a police vehicle, it may have meticulous records. If you don't have them, see if you can acquire them.

2) "The links and bushings on the stock one are surprisingly in good shape, but this thing is super loose out back."
If they have not been replaced at least once (per #1 above, recorded as having been replaced, then no, they are not in good shape by now. They might look okay to the naked eye, but they are play on a vehicle like this if you want a controlled ride. It will never be a sports car, but it's one of a few areas the extra play in suspension adds up and this one, is not very expensive per the improvement amount.

3) Some say coil-over shocks are too harsh, but one thing they do, do, is provide a multi-link connection to spring suspension. They provide more side to side sway reduction than the equivalent spring improvement from refurbishing the stock springs. Note that the ride was not ideal from the factory. I remember how mine rode when new and it always rode better with a few hundred lbs load in the back. Regardless, measure the ride height. If the rear is sagging like it eventually does, you have unequal suspension and load dampening.

Then again, it could be that the main problem with your particular specimen is side to side rocking and a beefier sway bar and new bushings and links is exactly the right move to make, to keep a softer ride but minimizing rocking back and forth, but I still think at least the spring bushings are a cost effective change towards your goal, as well as new shocks.

3) Did the rear axle dampener shock (5th shock) ever get replaced? Do that if not. Rear end improvements require that to be right.

4) Forget all that I just wrote. It was a bargain as a $125 fixer upper but only if you do minimum time and parts to get it back to serviceable condition rather than trying to get it better than brand new handling.

1. I did assume that and asked about that the day of the auction. They unfortunately had nothing to offer me, or they couldn't be bothered... Most likely the latter.

2. I did get down there and gave both sides a good yank with no noticeable play. Of course me yanking and the movements of a 4000lbs vehicle are quite different and you have a very valid point there. That said, I still think instead of paying for the links and bushings I would rather spend a little more and get an entire aftermarket kit including a bar which is significantly stiffer then the factory set up on even the best day.

3. I should of been more clear on that. I wasn't looking at the coil over but the air adjustable ones. From what I understand they act normal until you pressurize them with "up to 150psi" at which point they offer addition load carrying. The advert says they can level the vehicle with up to 1200lbs rear cargo. Way more then I would ever attempt to tow. Maybe 5-600lbs toung weight tops.

4. You're absolutely right, knowing when to quit is a hard thing for me. The prospect of a mechanically near new car with 80k miles on it is very appealing. I think all in all I'll be in this thing for under 1k if I'm thrifty with parts and have a great driving car which will hopefully last quite a while.


Still wondering if I can replace the ball joints in the UCA or if I need whole new arms and thus an alignment? Also if you guys have any radiator suggestions I would love to hear them.

Thanks again and I really appreciate all the info so far.