$125 sh#tbox

[RedBowTies88]

Another quick question if you don't mind, I was just doing a bit of reading on the timing chain tensioner issue. Should I replace them immediately or wait until I hear a rattle?

 

[J_C]

^ This is going to get really expensive if you start fixing things that aren't broken.

 

[RedBowTies88]

^ This is going to get really expensive if you start fixing things that aren't broken.

This is true, but I guess in the scheme of things tearing the motor down to do timing chains or pushing a valve through a piston would be would be much worse then doing the tensioners. If they have a service interval.


That and the rad isn't broken per-say, but it is crusty and nasty. I can't imagine it's exchanging heat at its best, even though it's not leaking.

 

[masospaghetti]

You might try and replacing the ball joint boots instead of the whole ball joints if they are tight and not making noise, would make the job a heck of a lot easier. Pack it full of grease and slip a new boot on, done.

 

[RedBowTies88]

You might try and replacing the ball joint boots instead of the whole ball joints if they are tight and not making noise, would make the job a heck of a lot easier. Pack it full of grease and slip a new boot on, done.

That's a good idea, and I would probably do that with the upper joints if they aren't replaceable until I get new tires and then I would do the whole UCA and get an alignment.

Considering the miles on the truck and the relative affordability of the joints though I would like to start fresh if possible.

 

[J_C]

This is true, but I guess in the scheme of things tearing the motor down to do timing chains or pushing a valve through a piston would be would be much worse then doing the tensioners. If they have a service interval.


That and the rad isn't broken per-say, but it is crusty and nasty. I can't imagine it's exchanging heat at its best, even though it's not leaking.

Wait till a worst case scenario in summer. If it doesn't overheat then, it's fine.

Timing chain rattle is going to be the sign that THEN it's time to do something.

 

[koda2000]

You cannot replace the ball joints in the OE upper control arms. Only the entire UCA. If you buy Moog, just the upper ball joints can be replaced in the future. IDK about other brands.

You will a choice as to whether you buy a one piece or two piece passenger side UCA. Some prefer the one piece, but the 2 piece is easier to change and give a bit more camber adjustment. You'll also need to get a set of caster/camber adjustment bolts.

 

[RedBowTies88]

You cannot replace the ball joints in the OE upper control arms. Only the entire UCA. If you buy Moog, just the upper ball joints can be replaced in the future. IDK about other brands.

You will a choice as to whether you buy a one piece or two piece passenger side UCA. Some prefer the one piece, but the 2 piece is easier to change and give a bit more camber adjustment. You'll also need to get a set of caster/camber adjustment bolts.

Crap. I was afraid of that. Well I guess for now I'll just do the boots if I can source them and hopefully it will last me until it's time for tires. I hate to have to get an alignment mostly because it's spot on now and I really don't trust any of the shops around here to do it properly.

 

[beach]

Since other stuff is cleared up, I have the Monroe Coil Overs load adjusting in the rear, are those the shocks you want? Love them, granted I'm on shackles and 31s and TT in front. Shocks lifted the rear higher then I expected, and I have the extended Ranchos in front for TT applications. Truck drives great, have never been in a 2nd gen that drives as nice as this does, stiff but in a nice well controlled way.

 

[RedBowTies88]

Since other stuff is cleared up, I have the Monroe Coil Overs load adjusting in the rear, are those the shocks you want? Love them, granted I'm on shackles and 31s and TT in front. Shocks lifted the rear higher then I expected, and I have the extended Ranchos in front for TT applications. Truck drives great, have never been in a 2nd gen that drives as nice as this does, stiff but in a nice well controlled way.

Actually the ones I'm looking at are air assist, basically you run a line with a Schroeder valve out to the rear bumper and you can inflate them with air up to 150psi to add some extra lift if necessary.

What do you mean by TT applications? I was looking at lift options but there doesn't seem to be much for the front other then either cranking the bars or a whole lift kit...

 

[Varsity]

I don't think anyone replied to your comment on a radiator. As far as I know, there isn't too much selection as far as radiators, but I could be wrong. I'm not really into the one-off or eBay parts, so I grabbed one from RockAuto for about $100, made by Spectre. Decent part and installed easy. Can't complain for the price I paid.

 

[beach]

Actually the ones I'm looking at are air assist, basically you run a line with a Schroeder valve out to the rear bumper and you can inflate them with air up to 150psi to add some extra lift if necessary.

What do you mean by TT applications? I was looking at lift options but there doesn't seem to be much for the front other then either cranking the bars or a whole lift kit...

I had the Monroe air shocks in the rear previously, Monroe Coil Over shocks are way better. Yeah I just did torsion twist in the front but I'm 2wd so I can go higher then the awd/4wd guys.

I don't know how the radiator job is on the 4.0, on the 5.0 its a nightmare, I wanted to murder someone lol.

 

[RedBowTies88]

I don't think anyone replied to your comment on a radiator. As far as I know, there isn't too much selection as far as radiators, but I could be wrong. I'm not really into the one-off or eBay parts, so I grabbed one from RockAuto for about $100, made by Spectre. Decent part and installed easy. Can't complain for the price I paid.

Ok thanks, it looks pretty easy and straightforward on the 4.0 and I've done it before on a 4.0 ranger in a wawa parking lot in about 20 minutes lol. If I decide to do the rad I'll probably go with the spectre.

I had the Monroe air shocks in the rear previously, Monroe Coil Over shocks are way better. Yeah I just did torsion twist in the front but I'm 2wd so I can go higher then the awd/4wd guys.

I don't know how the radiator job is on the 4.0, on the 5.0 its a nightmare, I wanted to murder someone lol.

Interesting! What didn't you like about the air shocks? It seems like a good fit for me because they can stay aired down to keep the stock height and ride until I need to tow something.

I did the torsion bar twist on my duramax way back when I first got it. Huge mistake. I'll never do that to another car again. If you're only 2x4 why don't you look into lift spindles? They're pretty cheap and work great.