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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
New clutches are soaking overnight.
One thing I thought was cool was how when the transfer case was removed, there was no fluid in between the transmission and transfercase. There is a plate with a rear seal that goes on the back of the trans.
The direct clutch was way to loose. This was before replacing the clutches and metals. The feeler gauges were .079 which is max spec. Way to much clearance.
One of my first words was wheels, lol. Always had a thing for cars/trucks/engines.
Went to Lincoln Technical Institute for automotive when I was around 18.
I worked for a privately owned chain of Goodyear stores (they had 12) for over 16 years, and I have been an automotive instructor for the last 11. The last 10 I have been teaching Ford specific classes. I consider my self very lucky to be in a career that fuels my passion.
I don't know everything though.
If there is anything on my explorer I might be unsure of, I just come to Explorerforum and get info from all the other members, there really is a lot of very smart people here with lots of experience. Love this site!
One of my first words was wheels, lol. Always had a thing for cars/trucks/engines.
Went to Lincoln Technical Institute for automotive when I was around 18.
I worked for a privately owned chain of Goodyear stores (they had 12) for over 16 years, and I have been an automotive instructor for the last 11. The last 10 I have been teaching Ford specific classes. I consider my self very lucky to be in a career that fuels my passion.
I don't know everything though.
If there is anything on my explorer I might be unsure of, I just come to Explorerforum and get info from all the other members, there really is a lot of very smart people here with lots of experience. Love this site!
I have a secret admirer in my garage.
It leaves me food surprises like old cookies and dried out bread.
Today I went out to the garage to find a cinnamon roll. lol
The used transmission is back out, and the rebuilt one is ready to go back in.
I hope to finish it tomorrow, we will see. ( I need to clean up that transfer case).
After 4 long days in the garage it is finally done!
Good thing I am not working flat rate, lol.
Mileage 100,868
Hope it lasts!
Notes:
I used a reman - pump(115.00), torque converter(134.68), and valve body(212.90).
New Ford OEM - solenoid pack(182.00), bonded overdrive and intermediate servo pistons(55.90), bonded reverse servo piston(19.95), bonded forward clutch piston(33.43).
New rebuild kit with seals/gaskets, 4wd filter, metal reinforced pan gasket, all 3 bands and Raybestos clutches(324.85)
12 quarts of Castrol Mercon V (5) (On sale at advanced auto parts for 2 for $8.00)
3 extra quarts for soaking bands/clutches.
1 Quart left over.
The servo bores already had brass inserts in them, as a matter of fact the trans had been rebuilt but the pump got trashed from the engine to transmission plate being missing from whoever installed the 2005 engine I suppose.
The original problem with this transmission was leaking out the front (pump damage), and shifted like crap.
Now it shifts fast and firm like it should and no leaks.
I lift nothing, lol. I am too old.
I use an engine hoist to get the transmission on and off the transmission jack.
On my two 1998's I prefer to pull the transfer case off first, then pull the trans out. I have tried it both ways and it is real hard to get to the engine to trans bolts with the transfer case in the way.
It sucks because when you remove the transfer case fluid would come out since the transmission is open at the rear of it. So you have to drain the fluid first.
On the 2004 there is a lot more room to work on things, you can get to the engine/trans bolts pretty easy even with the transfercase in the way.
Funny too because there is a plate at the back of the transmission that seals it up, so if you want to drop the transfer case first there is no fluid loss. go figure.
I will try to make one, if the video comes out halfway decent I will post it. lol.
The exhaust is really quiet so I don't know if anything will be heard there.
I should be able to get the mph and tach in action.
One thing I have to note:
I am so used to the lockup torque converter in my other two trucks staying locked up even under heavy throttle, this truck seems as if it unlocks with very little throttle. I never liked lock up staying on so long but now I got used to it. I guess I will have to get un used to it in my 2004. lol.
I finally finished the remote start installation.
Took way longer than I thought, and I have installed a few of these before.
I did spend a lot of time trying to figure out where to put the switches and LED.
One switch and the LED is for programming the unit, the other switch I added. The added one is a kill switch the opens the input circuit to the remote start.
I wanted the switches to be mounted in a way that if I had to remove panels or instrument panel parts, I would not have to disconnect them. I can access them by just reaching behind the knee bolster with very little effort. The LED can been seen if I look down through the knee bolster and steering column.
I hate the type of hood switch that comes with remote starts, they rust, lock up, and cause all kinds of problems. I will be looking for a different design later.
Pictures:
1. Remote start module
2. Transponder bypass module
3. Buttons and LED
4. Hood switch
The drivers side door lock button has not worked since I got the truck. I did some tests a while back and found the switch to be good. I mentioned the problem to a guy I work with and he said to look for broken wires in the rubber from the door to the body. I saw that problem before years ago when vehicle manufacturers did not know how to make wiring harnesses. lol. That was a long time ago though, they should know better now. But they don't.
I pulled the door panel off and chased the wire, sure enough it was broken in the rubber piece between the door and body. I just ran another wire through and soldered/heat shrinked it.