new to me 93 sport

[2stroke]

Maybe tomorrow I'll come at it from another angle. I'll compression test the engine. Some should be low due to a headgasket failure, but its the good ones I'm interested in. If I have 165 psi in the good cylinders the engine is still in good shape and maybe I'll lust replace the gaskets. Either way the engine is getting pulled. I'm known to be cheap, but the way I see it, the less I spend on the engine, the more I can on cool stuff.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Good idea. That'll give you an opportunity to check the plugs as well. Nothing wrong with being cheap (hell, that's why you're not paying someone else to do it!) as long as you know where not to be cheap

 

[2stroke]

I went out and pulled the plugs. All of them looked fantastic. On top of that every cylinder tested 170-178ish. With no signs of burning coolant or oil, not a single tick, I see it a waste to rebuild this engine. Instead I'll buy all the seals including frost plugs, and replace them. I am thinking I will replace headgaskets, and the oil pump as well. Plus I'll give it a good look over/cleaning when its out. High flow oil pump, clean oil screen, new gaskets, and the thing should run a long time.

I guess there won't be anything new for picture wise, but I'll be sure to get one of pulling an engine with nothing but some chains, a tree, and a come along.

 

[2stroke]

I came us short today. About 11:30 I decided I should pull the engine today as I didn't have to work. It all went great and everything was ready. I was about to pull the fan and bolt on chains to pull it at about 3:00 when a big storm came with little warning. I snapped a couple pictures, and hurried to pick up my stuff. I didn't make it either, I had to finish in the rain. It figures the storm has stopped now, but I don't want to go out in the mud.

Anyway, I don't know if I mentioned it, but this used to be mr cribb's explorer. That reminds me, I should transfer the title tomorrow.

 

[malohnes]

That's a nice truck...I like the color. Glad it has a good home. I think our first gens are very overlooked by enthusiasts.

 

[2stroke]

I also like the color. I will bedline the lower 1/3rd, but I'll either leave the top alone or repaint it the same purple.

I am fine with them not being collectors yet. I have a feeling they might some day, probably in the same way a jeep wrangler or bronco is. For now you can get one that runs and drives for under $1000 if you really want. The s10 blazer is kind of the same way. They are great little machines, but nobody ever fixes them, or even talks about them.

Friday I will drop just under $500 on it in parts. Hopefully it looks as good inside as its compression numbers do. I probably won't have it back in until the next weekend (10 days) from now at best. I also have to build an engine stand for this, so that will take a few hours as well.

I'll post the compression numbers... I'm doubting this is the original non-rebuilt engine at 240k
1- 175
2- 175
3- 170
4- 175
5- 170 (I swear #5 is ALWAYS the lowest compression, the dirtiest, and the bad fuel injector)
6- 178

 

[malohnes]

Those are solid compression numbers and pretty tight between cylinders. 10% is considered perfectly normal. You have a very even spread and thats a very good sign.

For comparison, mine are 194, 190, 185, 187, 183, 180psi, with number 6 being the trouble cylinder and 154k miles on the clock. My numbers are a little higher because I have 95tm heads over stock heads.

 

[2stroke]

I decided to buy a fan clutch tool as taking the fan off with a couple of channel lock pliers is a pain. I've done it once before, but its not fun. I bought a Powerbuilt set and all I can say is what GARBAGE it is. I didn't even get to use it once. The big crowfoot that holds the 4 nuts works fine, but the "wrench" is a fail. All I did was pull on it with my bare hand and the jaws opened up and it no longer fits the nut. I closed it back up in a vice, but the metal is barely harder than lead. What an embarrassment of a product! Made in China, go figure.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I've been pretty happy with my Performance Tool fan clutch set. Think I've used it 4-5 times now and it still looks new. It's Chinese though. Looks to be the same cast as the Powerbuilt. One thing I've learned is that while the cast may be the same, what they pour in that cast is different in different Chinese brands. For example, I've got 2 flaring tools. One is a Performance Tool brand and the other is the NAPA Balkamp brand. They look to be identical casts but the metal on the NAPA unit doesn't look as porous and is obviously a better quality. There's also better finishing on it.

Long story short, grab the Performance Tool set, I can vouch for it.

 

[2stroke]

Finally got a few hours to work on it again. Turns out I own a 36mm wrench that fits the fan nut pretty well. The sad thing is the fan clutch was not even that tight, the fan clutch "tool" was just that bad. I'm trying to get my money back right now, but its not looking promising. That's enough complaining, just know to stay away from Powerbuilt Ford fan clutch tool.

Anyway, I had access to a cherry picker, but went ahead with pulling it with the tree instead. No drama, but it was kind of tough to lift in to the shed it will be in until the parts arrive. It was very heavy for 2 guys lifting off the exhaust manifolds, which make perfect handles. Yes I did it shirtless, I'm not sorry.

 

[Watchman]

Hey 2stroke - I did my headliner on my 93 sport. It wasn't hard at all ..like Nate mentioned there are You Tube videos on this. Just a couple of hints .. 1. Make sure you have enough adhesive .. it took me part of a 2nd can to finish. 2. It would help to have somebody as a helper to help you folder over the new material to reduce wrinkling and to fit the contour of the headliner... lot of hills and valleys.. I bought my material from a cloth store .. they all carry automotive headliner material .. around $60 for the material. 3. The key thing is to get the old material off the headliner .. make sure surface is fairly clean. 4. Take your time removing the push-ins and xmas trees and panels .. in some cases it wasn't necessary to completely remove the side panels.

I did it in Nov '14 and it still looks great .. glad I did it.

 

[2stroke]

Everything has been ordered, except the oil pump. I think I'll bring the heads in to be tested/resurfaced Thursday, and hopefully get it mostly done this weekend. Among upgrades is a automatic/heavy-duty 2 row radiator. I'm not sure why the manual transmissions got these tiny radiators barely fit for a 4cyl car. I also bought the corresponding radiator hoses, and have a fan shroud on hand from an automatic truck.

 

[2stroke]

AIRTEX / WELLS 2G1057 (CK921) Fuel Injector Repair Kit
CLOYES 94172S (9-4172S) Timing Set
DAYCO 71534 Radiator Upper Hose
DAYCO 71532 Radiator Lower Hose
DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS FPS422 Expansion Plug / Set
FEL-PRO OS30634R Oil Pan Gasket
FEL-PRO TCS45291 Timing Cover Gasket Set
FEL-PRO 544SD Cylinder Head Gasket / Head Gasket Set
FEL-PRO 545SD Cylinder Head Gasket / Head Gasket Set
FEL-PRO MS98005T Intake Manifold Gasket
FEL-PRO SS72686 Valve Stem Seal
FEL-PRO MS94764 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
FOUR SEASONS 84883 Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet
MOTORCRAFT RS90 Radiator Cap
NGK 3951 Spark Plug
NGK 52184 Spark Plug Wire
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT CU1164 Radiator
STANT 45369 Thermostat
TIMKEN 5288 Crankshaft Seal
TIMKEN 3051N Crankshaft Seal
VICTOR REINZ GS33221 Cylinder Head

Rock auto really should have free shipping on orders this big.

Edit, I also added the Melling M328 high flow oil pump to the list, but purchased from ebay.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Looks good. Did you use a 5% off coupon at Rock Auto? Those things are everywhere.

Also, why not go with one of the aluminum radiators? Not quite twice the price of the one you got but I'd think they're much more long-lasting.

 

[2stroke]

I've never seen an aluminum radiator for an Explorer except maybe a custom one. I dont see the need either, the plastic sides last a long time. I'd prefer made in USA, but I am not aware of any.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I've never seen an aluminum radiator for an Explorer except maybe a custom one. I dont see the need either, the plastic sides last a long time.

I guess it depends on the brand and materials. There's been a discussion on them here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...irst-gen-all-aluminum-3-row-radiators.397923/

 

[malohnes]

I bought a fairly inexpensive aluminum radiator several years back that didn't last more than a year. I replaced it with a stock styled one and it has lasted well. A decent 2-row rad can be pricey but may well be worth it. IMO an aftermarket oil cooler will help a lot, they are inexpensive and easy to install and reliable.

 

[2stroke]

I bought a fairly inexpensive aluminum radiator several years back that didn't last more than a year. I replaced it with a stock styled one and it has lasted well. A decent 2-row rad can be pricey but may well be worth it. IMO an aftermarket oil cooler will help a lot, they are inexpensive and easy to install and reliable.

I got the Spectra 2 row (automatic w/ A/C) stock radiator today, and it looks perfect. Nice and thick, just like my 94 explorer. I have a manual tranny, so I won't be using the oil cooler unless you were talking about engine oil, in which case I disagree, it has no benefit. Oil temps will be similar to engine coolant temps. Even if it got above 250 degrees, engine oil is the very last of my concerns, a good full synthetic will still perform well at temps higher than that.

As for the radiator plastic vs aluminum sides, I have never seen the problem with plastic. They last a good long time. Even if the sides on plastic's can't be repaired, I find most of my radiator problems occur to the tubes themselves anyway, which is rare. If I had the choice of a Chinese made aluminum, or American (or Canadian/german or other location known for quality) made plastic side radiator, I would choose the plastic.

 

[mr cribb]

Hey bud, I left ya a radiator and new hoses. The radiator I left you has 30k on it same as the hoses. Plugs have roughly 20k wires have 40k. Fan clutch and fan have 6k. Alternator has about 6k.

Battery cables are Dec 14 in age so about 10k.

Thermostat is brand new fail safe brand replaced in January 16 so it might have 3k miles if that.

AFAIK, the head gaskets were done at 212k I bought it at 216k. I bet it is the original lower end.

 

[2stroke]

I just got the larger radiator for better cooling, its about twice the size of the original. I ended up accidentally breaking one of the battery cables when pulling the engine, so that will be replaced. If this is the original, untouched engine at 240k, it is in fantastic condition. I'm pretty sure a brand new 4.0, just broke in only has about 175 psi compression, pretty much what this one has. I'll be replacing every seal/gasket in the engine, giving it a good look over, as well as putting in a high flow oil pump, replacing timing chain set, and putting on a new water pump since I already have one new in the box. After all this, I won't have to worry about the drivetrain for many years.

After this, I think I'll tackle the little bit of body rust it has and bedline the bottom. I'll probably just drive it for a while, but at some point I do want to go SOA with 4 door leafs, about 4.5-5 inch lift front, and 33x10.5 tires. Plus I want to try building a set of bumpers, especially a swing out tire carrier.