98 no gas/fuel pump no power

[triplej1954]

Hi guys, new to your forum as well as Fords for the most part. Anyway been searching this forum for answers to a problem with a 1998 Explorer I was given. It is not getting fuel. It will run if you have a spray bottle and shoot gas into the throttle body. The fuel pump is not working. I have power at the relays but no power at the fuel cutoff switch by the passenger kick board. (Green and yellow wire is dead) The Anti theft system works as it should, no light after the key is turn on. Moved the relays to see if it was a bad relay but same result, no power at the fuel cut-off switch. Other items to note: Explorer last ran in 2011, came with only 1 key, do not know the code for the numbers on the door yet. (Told they can be found behind the drivers side rear panel on the computer there.)

 

[J_C]

You wrote power at the relays but do you mean that you have both power at the relay input, pin 3 light-blue/orange wire (if my diagram is correct), and 12V out of the relay at pin 5, the dark green/yellow wire when it should be energized and powering the pump? If you don't, for the brief moment the pump should be powering on when you turn the ignition key, you should measure voltage to energize the relay coil on either pin 1 (red) or 2 (lt blue/orange).

It is not clear to me why there appears to be two separate light blue/orange wires going to the relay as it appears on my diagram, unless the author made a mistake drawing it and it is the same wire, then the relay coil is grounded through the pin 1 red wire when it should be running.

That pin 5 output appears to go directly to the inertia shutoff switch, unless there is some fuse involved that is not shown on my diagram. You could use a multimeter in continuity or resistance mode (measuring for very low resistance) to make sure there is no break in the circuit between the relay pin 5 green/yellow wire (the relay socket contact), and that pin on the inertia switch.

 

[triplej1954]

I tested for power not voltage. Read another thread that stated that the pump requires 12volt to start. Will test for that tomorrow. Dark Green/yellow is power in, Pink/black is to the fuel pump. Thanks for the diagram, that is very helpful.

 

[J_C]

Keep in mind that if the horn relay right next to the fuel pump relay is the same type, you could try swapping the two to rule out a faulty relay... assuming you currently have a working horn, or the rear wiper up and down relays at that end of the junction box (missing from the picture below because it's from a Ranger pickup, which does not have a rear wiper).

I don't know what would happen if you pulled only one of those, if the rear wiper would keep trying to go further in the wrong direction so i would pull both wiper relays out if you put either out. I'd hope there's some fault tolerance built into the rear wiper but I really don't know.

I don't see a 2nd fuel pump relay, just the #9 position, 20 amp mini-fuse in the under-hood junction box, though in my owners manual it is incorrectly labeled "fuel pump relay" instead of "fuel pump fuse"... the yellow one towards the bottom left.

 

[XLTrunner]

Certainly check the wiring...but, my money is on a bad fuel pump after sitting unused for 6 yrs.

 

[triplej1954]

As for the relays, Bought a new one from NAPA. Tested it in the horn position, worked there. How I know the relay is good. As for the fuel pump being bad, power is not getting there. Disconnected the wiring from the fuel cut-off switch and tested for power coming into the switch, nothing, Was hoping I was missing a fuse or fusable link somewhere. That yellow fuse I will check it if it ever quits raining. Planning on dropping the tank and cleaning it and replacing pump and filters.

 

[Mbrooks420]

How did you test for power?

 

[triplej1954]

Replaced the fuse to the pump and it now has power during cranking and start up. Thanks for the help on this.