94 front axle seals

[junkYARDbuilt]

A few weeks ago I replaced the rear axle seals in the driveway, was pretty straight forward, and now with winter around the corner and a day off from work I want to replace the front axle u-joints. I fond a very informitive sticky post on the whole process, however it only seems to deal only with the two outer u-joints drives and passengers. On the passengers side there is a second inner ujoint which I would like to replace along with the axle seal on that side. Although the drivers front axle slides out of the diff. It doesn't appear as though the passengers side will be so easy. Being that there is no diff. cover on the front axle, will I need to remove the front diff. to remove the entire right front axle assembly to in turn replace both right ujoints and the right front axle seal? Any input would be greatly appreciated, and pictures are always awsome.
Thanks

 

[junkYARDbuilt]

seriously????

80 people looked and nobody has any input? Not even a "sorry man, I dont know"

 

[RangerX]

Sorry man, I don't know.



Yeah, you have to remove the diff to get to a clip that holds the passeger side inner axle in the diff. BUT, if you never want to do that again, search for a thread or two on c-clip eliminator. I think tbars has a thread on it.

So when you say axle seals, so you mean ones on each side of the diff itself, or the seals on the inner side of the rotors?

 

[junkYARDbuilt]

THANK YOU!
I was refering to the seals on the diff. Thanks for the tip on the c-clip eliminator too, I'll check that out.

 

[RangerX]

Are those seals bad, or are you just wanting to do preventive maintenance?
If they're okay, I would leave them alone...

 

[Tbars4]

..I have heard of people swapping the inner passenger u joints while the stub shaft was still installed in the diff just to avoid pulling the c-clip...I would think that would be a huge pita...

..This has some useful info in post #5 on how to get the diff out if you want to replace the u-joints...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256302&page=1

...If you are wanting to just replace the outer ujoint and the passenger bearing seal at the rotor, you can disconnect at the slip yoke that's within the boot..

..Shown in this diagrahm is only the boot which I mention..

 

[Maniak]

I vote for pulling that c-clip out and never looking back.

Using air tools, I can have the X in the air and the axles out in well < 30 minutes.

I can even have the pig out in < 1 hour BUT, I have the added bonus of being able to remove the vertical bolt which you can't do without moving the RA outward or removing the axle pivot and rotating the beam forward. I believe you can actually pull the pig without "removing" the vertical bolt, but you do have to loosen it some.

~Mark

 

[Auminer]

..I have heard of people swapping the inner passenger u joints while the stub shaft was still installed in the diff just to avoid pulling the c-clip...I would think that would be a huge pita...

..This has some useful info in post #5 on how to get the diff out if you want to replace the u-joints...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256302&page=1

...If you are wanting to just replace the outer ujoint and the passenger bearing seal at the rotor, you can disconnect at the slip yoke that's within the boot..

..Shown in this diagrahm is only the boot which I mention..

I know this is an very old thread, but I have mine torn down and really need to get that stub shaft from the diff out. Search led me here, but the link in "post #5" doesn't work. Any help would be a God send.

 

[410Fortune]

The inner stub shaft on the passenger side is retained in the differential with a C clip
You have to remove the diff from the beam in order to get to the c clip, remove the stub shaft and replace the passenger side inner seal

To remove the diff it is best just to drop the entire beam onto the ground.
Remove wheel and tire
Release the steering tie rod
Remove the brake caliper from the knuckle, secure the caliper up so it does not hang by the brake line
Release the sway bar and shock
release the coil spring retainer
remove the axle pivot bolt
remove the radius arm nut
drop the beam and radius arm out
Now you can get the vertical bolt that holds the diff inside the beam and the 10 (I think) diff to beam bolts, careful here comes all the gear lube.........now the diff and stub shaft are in your hands

 

[BKennedy]

And, since you are dropping the entire beam, it would be a good time to replace the rubber pivot bushing because its most-likely shot if it hasn't been replaced before.

4.3133 | Axle Pivot Bushings | F150 F250 F350 Bronco 1980-1996

Front Axle Pivot Bushings will fit the 1980-1996 Ford F150, F250, F350, and Bronco as well as the Explorer and Ranger. These axle pivot bushings tighten the Twin-Traction Beam axle's connection to the frame and can reduce steering wander and looseness. | Energy Suspension 4.3133

www.energysuspensionparts.com

 

[Auminer]

The inner stub shaft on the passenger side is retained in the differential with a C clip
You have to remove the diff from the beam in order to get to the c clip, remove the stub shaft and replace the passenger side inner seal

To remove the diff it is best just to drop the entire beam onto the ground.
Remove wheel and tire
Release the steering tie rod
Remove the brake caliper from the knuckle, secure the caliper up so it does not hang by the brake line
Release the sway bar and shock
release the coil spring retainer
remove the axle pivot bolt
remove the radius arm nut
drop the beam and radius arm out
Now you can get the vertical bolt that holds the diff inside the beam and the 10 (I think) diff to beam bolts, careful here comes all the gear lube.........now the diff and stub shaft are in your hands

I'm not lazy, but Da__rn that's a bit of work for this 78yr one man show. I sure appreciate the help and now to reconsider the operation. The inside U-joint feels good, but wanted to replace it while I'm doing the outside one. I've read the other option is to do it in place. Not sure I can get a C clamp in there either... Heck it just might out last me the way it is.

 

[410Fortune]

the U jont can be changed in place
Dropping the beam down to get the diff out takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you know what to expect
The good news is you can change that U joint, the seal, your front diff gear lube and re seal the diff to the beam!!

South East Alaska, 78 yr old, you got this!!
If you were from California and 78 year old I would say pay somebody else to do it but Alaska = tough!

 

[smegun]

the U jont can be changed in place
Dropping the beam down to get the diff out takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you know what to expect
The good news is you can change that U joint, the seal, your front diff gear lube and re seal the diff to the beam!!

South East Alaska, 78 yr old, you got this!!
If you were from California and 78 year old I would say pay somebody else to do it but Alaska = tough!

me and a mechanic friend of mine replaced the shaft joints quite a few years ago but didn't do the pumpkin/diff one on the upper passenger side …. i havnt experienced a problem yet but i dont 4x too much but originally those shaft joints were causing a lot of rubbing and snapping of my auto hubs i moved to lockers and have saved a set of auto hubs for later maybe ill get too it this all sounds right from previous writeups hey if anyone has the shop manual or link to a more complete write up on the universal joints post …. like it can be done with a tasteful sledge but i recall a write up using a press …

 

[Auminer]

Well the lazy part of me took over and I took the "change in place" route. I couldn't live with myself if I didn't replace the inside one too as it wobbled more than I wanted it to, especially when I rely on it come winter time. No previous pic's of removing the outside axle as it's been covered here on the forum before.

First off, I needed to know if there was room for the C-clamp. There was, but the 30mm socket I was using for the receiver end of the U-joint was about 1/2" too long to fit. Had the choice to grind it down to size of make something to fit. Chose to make one. Plasma cutter vs 3/8" galvanize I had laying around fit the bill. Cut 2 rings and a cap, slopped tack welds on it then done the same to the clamp to hold it in place.

Now I know the clamp will fit (barely), I wanted to stay away from pounding in the limited space with knuckles and eyes in the way of progress. There was enough foul air around just getting to this stage.
At this point I brought in my secret agent, my best friend, a younger man (by 10yrs). If ya can't out work'em, incorporate them.

Here's my idea. Unscrewed the clamp and used a small ram from the 10T porta-power, bit of overkill, but gotta use what ya have. Not everyone has a porta-power, but I do and wanted to press it rather than pound it. I take all the short cuts I can. It wasn't as easy as planned, never is, but it worked and saved knuckles, eyes and used fewer encouraging words.

(this is the already pressed axle used for illustration) btw, that's a 11/16" socket, but anything that will clear works.

Success, now I need my daily driver until the parts (inner and outer seals) get here so I put it back together until they arrive.

Oh yeah, I decided it would be best if I plugged the axle hole in the spindle with something to keep the mud and stuff out of the bearings...so this chunk of Alder served the purpose. You can find this solution in the back of the manual....way back

 

[410Fortune]

oooooh man I love alder, seriously it grows everywhere around here. It is a hard wood of sorts, grows faster then birch and burns sooooo welll....
I have never used it in a truck build...yet!

Thanks for sharing. I am now in love with the small ram from the porta power! Thanks for sharing!! Well done

 

[BKennedy]

If I had the axle shaft out, I would be replacing that seal. Its not that hard to get out with the pumpkin still intact.

 

[Auminer]

If I had the axle shaft out, I would be replacing that seal. Its not that hard to get out with the pumpkin still intact.

?? but it isn't out. If you are referring to the Alder plug, that's in the spindle. Would love to replace the seal in the pumpkin.

 

[Auminer]

oooooh man I love alder, seriously it grows everywhere around here. It is a hard wood of sorts, grows faster then birch and burns sooooo welll....
I have never used it in a truck build...yet!

Thanks for sharing. I am now in love with the small ram from the porta power! Thanks for sharing!! Well done

Great overlooked, down played, hard wood "of sorts" that has it's uses. Fred Flintstone used it for a truck build. Bring it in and get it up to dry, otherwise it will rot on the ground. Next project is building a rocket stove and burn Alder in it. I have plenty and it comes back plenty fast as you know.

 

[BKennedy]

?? but it isn't out. If you are referring to the Alder plug, that's in the spindle. Would love to replace the seal in the pumpkin.

Sorry, thought that was the pumpkin. I do know you can pull one axle shaft out, I think its the driver. That seal seems to be the one that failed on me so I started replacing it whenever I had that shaft removed.

 

[410Fortune]

the problem inner axle seal leaks USUALLY start after somebody was in there, meaning you pull the axle stub out of the diff and if you are not careful the splined end will ***** up the seal. Same thing in reverse if you do not install the shaft carefully, keeping the shaft from riding on the seal as it goes back in the diff you will ***** up the seal and leaks occur.
Also the axle shaft should be clean and lubed with grease, oil, vaseline, something to keep the clean dry metal from rubbing on the seal, always use lube.
This is true for the ttb and the SLA IFS suspension

The passenger side inner shaft on the TTB is what this thread is about, that stub shaft is retained with a C clip and the seal cannot be changed without removing the pumpkin from the beam......