Liftgate ajar alert

[Felipe302]

Did you check the fuse under the dash on the drivers side? There is a 3 prong fuse that was blown on mine.

Dealership told me the motorized lift strut was bad and wanted to replace that and the other strut. For $750. I decided to got to a pick a part to get them for $30. Didn’t fix the problem so I’m assuming I have a short somewhere. I ended up putting a standard lift strut on both sides and removing the powered opening. Replaced the fuse under the dash (I believe it was fuse 10-11) and I was good to go, you just have to lift the gate by hand now.

Oh wow! They were charging you an arm and a leg! That’s why I’m trying my best to avoid them at all cost.. these parts that I purchased weren’t that much on eBay. I think I spent like 80 dollars roughly..

I actually haven’t checked those fuses on the driver side just the ones in the engine bay.. I’ll check them out right now..

If I can’t figure this out I’ll be doing the same thing you did and make mine manual as well. It’s a pain to try to put things in the rear without the trunk opening..

Thank you for your quick response and input I appreciate it!!!

 

[peterk9]

I have a 2017 Ford Explorer Sport I am having a Liftgate Ajar message as well and my power Liftgate setting is grayed out as well..

I checked the fuse and it good. I ended up replacing the Latch actuator and the liftgate control module after seeing other forums indicating that might be the issue (LOL) and I went as far as disconnecting the battery for 20 seconds after the install and my Liftgate still won’t function. Any thoughts on what might be triggering this? Thanks!!!

Welcome to the Forum Felipe.
Your post was moved to this thread.
There are 2 fuses listed for the liftgate. #69 (30A), Power Liftgate, in the engine bay fuse box and #10 (5A) in the cabin fuse box which is shown as being for the Hands-Free Liftgate function. I don't know that if either was bad that it would result in the option being "grayed out". That sounds more like a program issue. An option shouldn't become unavailable like that just because a fuse might be blown.

Peter

 

[Felipe302]

Welcome to the Forum Felipe.
Your post was moved to this thread.
There are 2 fuses listed for the liftgate. #69 (30A), Power Liftgate, in the engine bay fuse box and #10 (5A) in the cabin fuse box which is shown as being for the Hands-Free Liftgate function. I don't know that if either was bad that it would result in the option being "grayed out". That sounds more like a program issue. An option shouldn't become unavailable like that just because a fuse might be blown.

Peter

Hey peter thanks for the warm welcoming..

I just went back and double checked #69 Fuse In the engine bay and #10 fuse in the cabin fuse box and these are good.

im now puzzled on why I can’t access that setting.. if I disconnect the battery for 5 minutes will that reset those settings? Idk what else to do anymore the only thing I have left to swap out is the power Liftgate support cylinder..

 

[peterk9]

I don't think disconnecting that battery will help but what have you got to lose except possibly some memory settings. The fact that it is "grayed out" seems to indicate that the option isn't there to select. A normal liftgate failure shouldn't cause that to happen. I'm guessing that the liftgate doesn't unlock with the remote either? If you open it manually does it stay up? If so, then the support cylinder if good. At this point I would not change either the support cylinder of the actuator/motor cylinder since that likely isn't the problem. Your vehicle currently thinks it doesn't have the power liftgate feature. Do you have any warranty left?

Peter

 

[Felipe302]

I don't think disconnecting that battery will help but what have you got to lose except possibly some memory settings. The fact that it is "grayed out" seems to indicate that the option isn't there to select. A normal liftgate failure shouldn't cause that to happen. I'm guessing that the liftgate doesn't unlock with the remote either? If you open it manually does it stay up? If so, then the support cylinder if good. At this point I would not change either the support cylinder of the actuator/motor cylinder since that likely isn't the problem. Your vehicle currently thinks it doesn't have the power liftgate feature. Do you have any warranty left?

Peter

The remote doesn't respond either. If I open the lift gate manually the liftgate will stay open and will not come down unless I manually shut it.

I was looking at another forum earlier and it looks like I may have to reprogram the Liftgate Control Module it must have lost signal somehow..

I’ll be going to the dealership tomorrow unless I buy a OBDLink EX scanner and diagnose it with ForScan software on my laptop which is going to be a pain trying to figure that out.. the scanner is like 30 bucks and the software is free with android I believe. Beats paying the dealership a few 100 bucks..

 

[Felipe302]

The remote doesn't respond either. If I open the lift gate manually the liftgate will stay open and will not come down unless I manually shut it.

I was looking at another forum earlier and it looks like I may have to reprogram the Liftgate Control Module it must have lost signal somehow..

I’ll be going to the dealership tomorrow unless I buy a OBDLink EX scanner and diagnose it with ForScan software on my laptop which is going to be a pain trying to figure that out.. the scanner is like 30 bucks and the software is free with android I believe. Beats paying the dealership a few 100 bucks..

I mean to say reprogram the BCM (Body Control Module) also after that happed I lost the guided lines for the reverse parking as well..i totally forgot to mention that in the beginning as well.. I added a image of that as well.. sorry it’s my first time ever using a forum..

 

[peterk9]

Thanks for the replies Felipe. The fact that the liftgate stayed up should rule out the support cylinder. Did you confirm that the Fixed and Active Guidelines were set to ON in the settings or whatever the setting is? I lost the active lines once and for some reason the setting had changed so I turned it back ON. This may not be the problem you are having but it should be checked first. You could try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes to see if anything will reset. The only issue is that by doing that you will probably lose any saved memory settings.
One thing I forgot to ask before was did the liftgate actually unlock when you used the remote? Could you hear it unlock?

Peter

 

[Felipe302]

Thanks for the replies Felipe. The fact that the liftgate stayed up should rule out the support cylinder. Did you confirm that the Fixed and Active Guidelines were set to ON in the settings or whatever the setting is? I lost the active lines once and for some reason the setting had changed so I turned it back ON. This may not be the problem you are having but it should be checked first. You could try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes to see if anything will reset. The only issue is that by doing that you will probably lose any saved memory settings.
One thing I forgot to ask before was did the liftgate actually unlock when you used the remote? Could you hear it unlock?

Peter

Good afternoon peter

any idea on how I can trouble shoot this code that I got from when I scanned my explorer with ForScan?
It says lost communication with Rear Gate Module..

thanks!!

 

[peterk9]

Hi Felipe. Unfortunately, I'm not into FORScan. I did find this using Google search; U0230 Lost Communication With Rear Gate Module. My Maine concern is about why the Liftgate option is grayed out. I believe that is the cause as to why it won't open electronically.

Peter

 

[KurtJ]

I have this same/similar issue with my brand new to me 2018 explorer. We are on a vacation road trip, driving down the road and the "rear hatch open" display popped up on the dash. I pulled over, checked the hatch, and it was closed. Now it won't open, the car just blinks the lights at me when I tried fob, dash button, hatch button all nothing. The dash is still telling me that the hatch is open but I had to unload the car from the backseat, very frustrated right now. I will pass the above info along to dealer in hopes of a quick fix.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Kurt.
Your post was moved from the 6th gen forum to the 5th gen and merged with this thread.
This sometimes happens when there is an issue with the Securicode pad coming off and damaging the wiring. This doesn't seem to be the case here. The liftgate can be opened from the inside but probably not easy to do with the cargo area loaded. There is a small panel on the inside of the 'gate' that can be removed. It could be an issue with the latch. Please keep us in the loop after the dealer visit. Thanks.

Peter

 

[BrOkEn xVx]

Does anybody know if there are common issues with the 'rear trunk ajar' warning on the screen? It started out being intermittent, and mostly after going over a bump, but now it's constantly on and the interior lights stay on as well even after the key is off. The rear washer also no longer works, which I am assuming is related to the rear trunk latch sensor thinking the rear tailgate is up.

It's a 2013 ford explorer xlt. It has the backup camera, which works when in reverse (although the yellow lines and the audible warning beep no longer work on it, again probably related to the trunk latch showing its open).

I plan to replace the part, but wondered if anybody had a wiring diagram of this portion of the car so I can jumper the sensor into 'thinking' the trunk is closed until I get the extra money to replace the part.

Does anybody know if there are common issues with the 'rear trunk ajar' warning on the screen? It started out being intermittent, and mostly after going over a bump, but now it's constantly on and the interior lights stay on as well even after the key is off. The rear washer also no longer works, which I am assuming is related to the rear trunk latch sensor thinking the rear tailgate is up.

It's a 2013 ford explorer xlt. It has the backup camera, which works when in reverse (although the yellow lines and the audible warning beep no longer work on it, again probably related to the trunk latch showing its open).

I plan to replace the part, but wondered if anybody had a wiring diagram of this portion of the car so I can jumper the sensor into 'thinking' the trunk is closed until I get the extra money to replace the part.

I know this post is about 3 years old, But i thought i would share my experience.
I recently bought a 2013 FPIU and i kept seeing the "Liftgate Ajar" warning, Usually when hitting small bumps.
What i did to "fix" the issue was spray the hell out of the Liftgate Latch with WD-40.
This did not work right away, I sprayed the latch again (and again) and i was still getting the warning.
Then after about 3 days (and lots of working the latch, open. close, open, close, etc) and lots of WD-40,
I no longer have the warning popping up.
Totally worth a try.

The sensor that is INSIDE the latch gets gunked up sometimes and just needs to be lubed and cleaned.
Give it a try, it might take a few days, but it worked for me.

 

[peterk9]

^^Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[TylerD321]

Hey all,

I just got a used 2016 Ford Explorer XLT a few weeks ago. I am running into a problem with fuse #10 in the passenger compartment: “Securicode™ keyless entry keypad. Hands free liftgate.”.

The lift gate was inoperable shortly after I purchased the vehicle. I was able to replace the fuse and it made the rear lift gate work for about a day and a half. I was able to drive an hour to work and about half of the way back with no issues. On the highway I experienced a “lift gate ajar” message on my instrument cluster. The hatch of course didn’t open, but is having the same issues of not opening in any way with out taking the cover off and manually pressing the release. The lights for the keyless entry no longer work either.

I tried to replace the fuse again just incase I put a bad fuse in and it blew immediately, so I disconnected the battery and replaced the fuse. As soon as I connected the battery the fuse blew again.

Is there any way to tell if the problem is coming from the keyless entry keypad on the driver door or the rear lift gate based on where the fuse is blowing? I had planned on disconnecting the keyless entry system since I didn’t want the feature, could this fix my fuse blowing issue? Has anyone seen this issue and how did you fix it?

Thank you all.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Tyler.
Your thread was merged with this existing one.
Many who have had the securicode keypad come off while driving experienced the same issue "liftgate ajar". I believe that is due to the wires attached to the keypad shorting out. If the fuse is blown, the keypad will not light up nor will the power 'gate' work. If you bought the Explorer from a Ford dealer, check with them to see if they can find any kind of repair history on the vehicle. The fact that the fuse blew right away is a sign that there is a short. Does it appear that the keypad is secure? I believe you did mention that it worked when you bought it. It is possible that the dealer replaced the fuse just like you did the first time. Is there a way to check that? If they did, then they just treated the symptom and not the cause.
BTW, did you also check fuse #69 in the engine bay fuse panel?
Good luck and Happy New Year.

Peter

 

[TylerD321]

Welcome to the Forum Tyler.
Your thread was merged with this existing one.
Many who have had the securicode keypad come off while driving experienced the same issue "liftgate ajar". I believe that is due to the wires attached to the keypad shorting out. If the fuse is blown, the keypad will not light up nor will the power 'gate' work. If you bought the Explorer from a Ford dealer, check with them to see if they can find any kind of repair history on the vehicle. The fact that the fuse blew right away is a sign that there is a short. Does it appear that the keypad is secure? I believe you did mention that it worked when you bought it. It is possible that the dealer replaced the fuse just like you did the first time. Is there a way to check that? If they did, then they just treated the symptom and not the cause.
BTW, did you also check fuse #69 in the engine bay fuse panel?
Good luck and Happy New Year.

Peter

Hey Peter!

I actually bought the vehicle from a Chevy/Buick/GMC dealer as is. I suspect they probably replaced the fuse as well. Unfortunately there is no warranty. I have not checked fuse 69 in the engine bay but I will stop by autozone on my way home from work and replace that fuse as well.

I suspect that they replaced the fuse and it did not fix their issue. The keypad doesn’t really feel loose from what I can tell. If I were to just unplug the keypad could my liftgate work still? I am not at all concerned about using the keypad and I have no interest in ever setting it up.

 

[peterk9]

I'm guessing that if you unplug the keypad the liftgate would work as long as the fuse is replaced. I don't know for sure since I don't think anyone has done it, but it makes sense. I believe members that have replaced the keypad had to remove the driver's door panel so I'm guessing that is where the connection might be.

Peter

 

[peterk9]

I don't think the issue with the rear washer has anything to do with the 'liftgate ajar' warning. I was able to get the washer and wiper to work with the 'gate' completely open. Although the camera will work with the 'gate' open, the guidelines only appeared on mine once I heard it lock.

When replying to an old post, it would be a good thing to include that post by clicking on the reply button so members will know the context of your reply. No one on this page has mentioned anything about the rear washer. BTW, the member I believe you are responding to was last seen here on March 19, 2018. Also, what you said about the washer is correct.

Peter

 

[TylerD321]

I'm guessing that if you unplug the keypad the liftgate would work as long as the fuse is replaced. I don't know for sure since I don't think anyone has done it, but it makes sense. I believe members that have replaced the keypad had to remove the driver's door panel so I'm guessing that is where the connection might be.

Peter

I ended up fixing my liftgate fuse issue by unplugging and replugging in the keypad. Now both the keypad and the lift gate work perfectly after the fuse was changed. No issues have come up (knock on wood) for several weeks.

 

[Mohannedalamin]

I have a 2012 Explorer xlt and noticed whenever I use the remote to lock the car, 10-20 seconds later the panic alarm starts to go off until I hit unlock.
I noticed when sitting in the vehicle with it running, the “lift gate ajar” icon would light up and flicker very quickly on and off. The lift gate is shut securely. Any ideas what could be the issue?
At the moment I have to keep the vehicle unlocked so the alarm doesn’t keep going off.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Did you ever get this problem fixed. I’m having the same issue. Lift gate ajar and alarm going off shortly after