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Clanking coming from underneath

00'ExplorerMatt

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Joined
April 11, 2020
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City, State
Hurricane, Utah
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000, Ford Explorer XLT
Here is a link to hear the noise for yourself. please let me know what you think. *fingers crossed* im hoping its not a transfer case issue.

 



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To me, it sounds like something is tapping on an exhaust pipe :dunno:
 






I think toypaseo probably has it right with something hitting the exhaust of the exhaust hitting something. I have an aftermarket exhaust system installed by the previous owner that moves around quite a bit and actually grazes the helper spring on my right rear shock, making a similar clang when I hit a bump. I would check your exhaust system and look for any spots where there would be rubbing or contact. If this has been going on for a while, there should be a noticeable lack of oxidation on the spot in question on your exhaust. Keep in mind that there will be more play on the exhaust system the further back on the truck you go because it is suspended by rubber isolators. Another way to check could be to grab the tailpipe when its cold and give it a good shake in a few different directions. If you hear a similar clang, your exhaust is just flopping around.
 






sounds hollow and or thin... id say more like one of those j shape things that hold the pipe up hitting something... but i agree with toypaseo... probably exhaust but as for what part i think its the hooks but toypaseo knows better than i 😅
 












Inspect the front driveshaft closely, I've heard that sound from my front shafts when working with them(R&R or just rotating while checking everything out underneath). That noise during driving should be something in the front drive parts, hopefully just the CV joint of the driveshaft. That would be the easiest repair, take the shaft out and R&R the joint on a bench. If it is that CV joint, buy the Dorman CV kit, and not the cheap one from Detroit Axle(really poor quality).
 






20210211_180237.jpg
this section seems to be the culprit. I tried shaking and rattling the exhaust and that didn't produce the noise and then I got up under and shook the front drive shaft and it started making the hollow clanking noise from this section where the drive shaft and the transfer case meet.

Is this the output shaft bearing? What are your thoughts as well?
 






View attachment 327473this section seems to be the culprit. I tried shaking and rattling the exhaust and that didn't produce the noise and then I got up under and shook the front drive shaft and it started making the hollow clanking noise from this section where the drive shaft and the transfer case meet.

Is this the output shaft bearing? What are your thoughts as well?
Maybe it's that CV joint. If you look closely while you manually move the driveshaft up & down/side to side, you could probably see any play in the front output shaft, plus a fluid leak would likely accompany any bearing failure.
But look at the CV joint, I have heard on this forum numerous times of them needing replacement.
PS: change transfer case fluid fairly often, and check the vent hose occasionally too.
 






That's where the CV joint is located, where was the most movement from? The parts normally will move a little, but there shouldn't be a lot of up and down play with them. Hopefully the movement is mainly at the small shaft where you see the boot and little clamp holding it on.
 






Ditto, that TC fluid required is Mercon, don't use any later fluid type like Mercon V(which is the proper ATF fluid). Mercon is not licensed to be made any longer, so you have to use either expensive transfer case fluid(Valvoline has one that was $6 each by a case from Amazon), or any Dexron III ATF fluid, readily available and meets the Mercon specs.
 






Note the old dirt debris on that CV joint cover, and I'll bet it's slung onto the underside of the body too. That isn't from the AWD TC, which is behind that rusty flange. I think you are going to be buying a CV joint to replace that one, they were about $85 the last time I looked.

Ouch, I just looked and now there are three cheapass brands, plus the Dorman part. The Dorman is the cheapest at AutoZone now, $93 and $10 off with a AZLBX0506 promotional code. The cheap brands are really cheap, $24 up to about $40 or so, and Detroit Axle isn't one of those. Rock Auto doesn't carry the Dorman 932-201 part now.
 






Glad you found the culprit! Definitely listen to CDW about Detroit Axle. Avoid them like the plague. Their stuff is terrible quality. I found that out the expensive way...
 


















Inspect the front driveshaft closely, I've heard that sound from my front shafts when working with them(R&R or just rotating while checking everything out underneath). That noise during driving should be something in the front drive parts, hopefully just the CV joint of the driveshaft. That would be the easiest repair, take the shaft out and R&R the joint on a bench. If it is that CV joint, buy the Dorman CV kit, and not the cheap one from Detroit Axle(really poor quality).
I have a clanking noise coming from under my 2000 eddie baur. I know where its coming from. I don't know what its called or what part is needed to replace it. I hope I don't need to replace the drive shaft $$. Link Sharing
 






View attachment 327473this section seems to be the culprit. I tried shaking and rattling the exhaust and that didn't produce the noise and then I got up under and shook the front drive shaft and it started making the hollow clanking noise from this section where the drive shaft and the transfer case meet.

Is this the output shaft bearing? What are your thoughts as well?
That is the same problem I just discover with my 2000 Eddie Baur. So what part did you end up with (name) and what does it take to replace it with (tools)
 






I have a clanking noise coming from under my 2000 eddie baur. I know where its coming from. I don't know what its called or what part is needed to replace it. I hope I don't need to replace the drive shaft $$. Link Sharing
That's the front driveshaft CV joint. That's available as a kit. I've only installed the Dorman kit, I don't know the quality of the more recent brand cheaper kits.
 















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It's fairly straight forward to replace. The clamp that goes on the outermost part of the rubber boot may be troublesome depending on the clamp type in the kit. The OEM style of clamps take a special tool to crimp them, about $20 to buy that odd tool. So if that's the type of clamp it comes with, it might be easier to just get a wide zip tie to clamp the end of the boot securely. Zip ties work fine for most uses like that, including for example the boots on a steering rack.
 






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