2005 V8 Timing Chain DONE!

[yeet1331]

I have finished a complete timing chain job on my 2005 Limited 4.6 at 195,250 miles with the help of a friend. just wanted to post some pictures of some of the fun stuff and some components that the chain just ate through over time. It took three days and a couple of parts runs. rather than use a positioner or vice grips to hold the camshafts in place we just re-timed the engine for the extra peace of mind. Not only will you need a timing chain kit make sure to grab valve cover gaskets, front main seal if it needs replaced, water pump gasket, and either the proper timing cover gasket or some RTV gasket maker to make your own timing cover gasket if you so desire. at 17 years old this is my first time taking an engine apart and I had so much fun, I learned a lot of valuable things as well. Doing this job yourself saves you anywhere from $1000-$1200 so if you like using your hands I recommend you do this yourself! in the photos you can see most of the stuff that had to come off, a picture of the engine without timing cover, a picture inside the timing cover where one of the chains started to wear into it, and the last two photos are comparisons of the driver side which wasn’t worn that much and the passenger side which was worn really badly. Note the tensioner on the right where the chain literally chainsawed through it after the guide collapsed. if you hear clacking noises at the front of the engine at high mileage I recommend you get this done before it gets either this bad or worse because I drove it three months with it making noise and said “okay it’s time to get this done”.

 

[TechGuru]

Thanks for further confirming my desire to upgrade to a Suburban with it's push-rod V8 containing a simple short single timing chain instead of upgrading to a Expedition...

 

[94Eddie]

Congratulations on completing a first time difficult repair. Being able to do these things yourself makes owning older vehicles much easier.

 

[94Eddie]

Thanks for further confirming my desire to upgrade to a Suburban with it's push-rod V8 containing a simple short single timing chain instead of upgrading to a Expedition...

GM isn't without their issues. AFM is one that many find a PITA if it is not disabled before it screws thing up royally. Also, the timing chains/guides on 4.6L engines are rarely an issue if the engines are maintained well. Especially so with the 2V versions. These engines typically go for 300k, or more, miles in vehicles like taxis and other severe duty applications. The 4.0L is another situation though. Buying a Ford with this engine is not the best choice but even then it can last a very long time if low mile oil changes are done and a very long time if a pre-oiler is installed.

I think the trend with engines, and vehicles in general, is more complexity is designed in to meet CAFE standards and to meet demands by buyers for more features. I see all these Ecoboost engines and can't help but think they will be mostly disposable vehicles at some point because the cost to repair them after turbo failure, and other possible damages from these failures, will be to expensive to justify. We see this all the time with expensive European brands where repair costs total out the vehicle. It looks like this is becoming the norm for American brands too.

 

[TechGuru]

GM isn't without their issues. AFM is one that many find a PITA if it is not disabled before it screws thing up royally. Also, the timing chains/guides on 4.6L engines are rarely an issue if the engines are maintained well. Especially so with the 2V versions. These engines typically go for 300k, or more, miles in vehicles like taxis and other severe duty applications. The 4.0L is another situation though. Buying a Ford with this engine is not the best choice but even then it can last a very long time if low mile oil changes are done and a very long time if a pre-oiler is installed.

I think the trend with engines, and vehicles in general, is more complexity is designed in to meet CAFE standards and to meet demands by buyers for more features. I see all these Ecoboost engines and can't help but think they will be mostly disposable vehicles at some point because the cost to repair them after turbo failure, and other possible damages from these failures, will be to expensive to justify. We see this all the time with expensive European brands where repair costs total out the vehicle. It looks like this is becoming the norm for American brands too.

I'm looking at Tenth generation (2007–2014) Suburbans and Tahoe's, I don't think those had AFM. The main reason I'm leaning away from Explorers and Expeditions is I'm wanting a solid rear axle as they are better for towing and are much easier and cheaper to maintain than IRS vehicles.

It is a little tempting to simply switch over to a V8 4th Gen explorer so that I can just transfer over most of my new parts.

 

[yeet1331]

Congratulations on completing a first time difficult repair. Being able to do these things yourself makes owning older vehicles much easier.

now i’m just figuring out why the coil on cylinder 3 won’t fire lol

 

[94Eddie]

I'm looking at Tenth generation (2007–2014) Suburbans and Tahoe's, I don't think those had AFM. The main reason I'm leaning away from Explorers and Expeditions is I'm wanting a solid rear axle as they are better for towing and are much easier and cheaper to maintain than IRS vehicles.

It is a little tempting to simply switch over to a V8 4th Gen explorer so that I can just transfer over most of my new parts.

Check into it because I believe those models have AFM engines. It isn't the end of the world as this can be disabled but I can't say if this causes issues with emissions testing if this is done in your area. Also, I think there is a class action lawsuit regarding the AFM in the 2010-2014 engines. I agree that a solid axle is more dependable.

When I decided to upgrade from my 2002 Explorer I initially thought about going with a 5th gen but after looking into them I decided they just weren't robust enough for me. All the Explorer/Mountaineers I have owned outside the 1st gens have been V8s and I have never had issues with any of them outside the typical coil problems. After looking at the 4th gens I decided this would be the best option for me. I have a 2007 Mustang GT and found the 3V 4.6L to be a very solid engine. Then I looked into the 6R60/6R80 transmissions and found them to be very reliable and especially so when maintained well. Getting one with the towing package was another requirement I needed in whatever 4th gen I bought. After this, a clean Carfax showing a decent maintenance history and that it lived its life outside the rustbelt and/or areas where exposure to salt wasn't likely. To sum up, look into the 4th gen V8s. Especially the 2009-2010 years. You might find they are a good alternative to consider. Overall, I am very pleased with the 2010 Mountaineer I bought about 1.5 years ago. Aside from a radiator (I knew this at purchase) and AC compressor replacement it has been very dependable. It has plenty of power and gets very good gas mileage (17-22 mpg) for what it is. The tow rating for mine is around 7k lbs which isn't bad.

 

[94Eddie]

now i’m just figuring out why the coil on cylinder 3 won’t fire lol

What have you checked so far?

 

[yeet1331]

What have you checked so far?

connector gets power, everything is tight and it tells me i have a circuit failure

 

[94Eddie]

connector gets power, everything is tight and it tells me i have a circuit failure

Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil?

 

[yeet1331]

Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil?

i have not. that is the next thing I’m going to do and i’ll let you know what happens

 

[yeet1331]

Have you tried swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil?

The problem does not follow the coil. That makes me believe there is a spark plug issue

 

[94Eddie]

The problem does not follow the coil. That makes me believe there is a spark plug issue

You can swap the spark plug and see if it is the problem.

 

[yeet1331]

You can swap the spark plug and see if it is the problem.

well there’s a problem, no wonder it’s not firing. I’m going to re-center and gap it and it should be fine

 

[94Eddie]

Isn't it great when you find out what is causing the problem with such certainty? I would love to know how it got that way. If you have a way then blow out the combustion chamber and spark plug socket very well with compressed air and clean the threads. I always blow out the spark plug wells thoroughly before taking the plugs out.

 

[yeet1331]

Isn't it great when you find out what is causing the problem with such certainty? I would love to know how it got that way. If you have a way then blow out the combustion chamber and spark plug socket very well with compressed air and clean the threads. I always blow out the spark plug wells thoroughly before taking the plugs out.

i tried to clean everything to the best of my ability. i questionably re-gapped it with a wild guess and put everything back together and it runs perfectly. i know i should’ve gapped it correctly but it runs great... so that solves that problem!

 

[94Eddie]

i tried to clean everything to the best of my ability. i questionably re-gapped it with a wild guess and put everything back together and it runs perfectly. i know i should’ve gapped it correctly but it runs great... so that solves that problem!

Sometimes close enough is good enough.

 

[heyrey]

I have finished a complete timing chain job on my 2005 Limited 4.6 at 195,250 miles with the help of a friend. just wanted to post some pictures of some of the fun stuff and some components that the chain just ate through over time. It took three days and a couple of parts runs. rather than use a positioner or vice grips to hold the camshafts in place we just re-timed the engine for the extra peace of mind. Not only will you need a timing chain kit make sure to grab valve cover gaskets, front main seal if it needs replaced, water pump gasket, and either the proper timing cover gasket or some RTV gasket maker to make your own timing cover gasket if you so desire. at 17 years old this is my first time taking an engine apart and I had so much fun, I learned a lot of valuable things as well. Doing this job yourself saves you anywhere from $1000-$1200 so if you like using your hands I recommend you do this yourself! in the photos you can see most of the stuff that had to come off, a picture of the engine without timing cover, a picture inside the timing cover where one of the chains started to wear into it, and the last two photos are comparisons of the driver side which wasn’t worn that much and the passenger side which was worn really badly. Note the tensioner on the right where the chain literally chainsawed through it after the guide collapsed. if you hear clacking noises at the front of the engine at high mileage I recommend you get this done before it gets either this bad or worse because I drove it three months with it making noise and said “okay it’s time to get this done”.

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good job man! i was a bit daunted about doing this myself a couple years ago. i coulda' bought a new engine for what i paid to have it done !!!

 

[yeet1331]

good job man! i was a bit daunted about doing this myself a couple years ago. i coulda' bought a new engine for what i paid to have it done !!!

that's why I did it myself, because my dad would've made me junk it otherwise. My goal right now is to keep it running and buy it off him next year when I turn 18 so it's in my name and I can be as financially irresponsible as I want with it.

 

[TechGuru]

well there’s a problem, no wonder it’s not firing. I’m going to re-center and gap it and it should be fine

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That's either some other brand/type or is severely worn.

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