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One of those wand magnets might work, to fish it out the drain plug hole. If you locate it with a bore scope, maybe a strong magnet, working on the outside of the pan and pulling toward the drain hole, will get it out...

One of those wand magnets might work, to fish it out the drain plug hole. If you locate it with a bore scope, maybe a strong magnet, working on the outside of the pan and pulling toward the drain hole, will get it out...

Terkins, check the coolant tank for a sooty residue, and look for small bubbles coming up in the tank with the engine warm and idleing. If no soot or bubbles, then your leak is external and not caused by a blown head gasket or cracked head. (Whoopee.) These engines are known for leaking from the...

I believe the shape of the tank is different in the 2 dr vs 4 dr, and that's why the pump assembly is different. As Koda says, it may not make a difference in the pump. There are 2 types of pump connectors, but the Bosch pump kit comes with a pigtail to adapt the wiring if needed.

Are you sure it's not a draggy starter? If it's truly misfiring, then the cause might be the sparkplugs, wires, or possibly the coilpack. Start with the plug wires and make sure thay are all securely plugged in, both at the coil pack and the plug ends.

I replaced the timing set on my OHV last year, and it's not a hard job. Hardest part is removing and reinstalling the harmonic balancer for which you'll need a puller. I bought a Sealed Power set which included the chain, both sprokets, the tensioner and gaskets. The tensioner is what wears...

That's a good trick with the ATF. I use a 50/50 mix of oil and STP on the syncros just as a preventative measure. The bushings seem to get oil-starved for some reason. There's an oil hole about mid-way up the shaft that may get clogged up and cause the bushing to run dry...?

I recently replaced the timing chain, tensioner, and gears on an OHV engine, and used Sealed Power parts. They were made in Germany and were identical to the Ford parts they replaced. The same manufacturer obviously supplied both Sealed Power and Ford. I would assume the same applies to the...

If no codes are showing up, then I'd suspect the fuel pump. Your symptoms are typical of when they are starting to fail. The brushes on the pump motor wear out. I cut a hole under the left rear seat to access my pump. For me, that was easier than working underneath the vehicle. There's a post...

Great! Glad you got it fixed. I still remember the test drive after fixing mine. It's a good feeling.

I've used LubeGard in the red bottle for years, in hopes that it reduces wear. After a quarter of a million miles though, I guess the trans is due for some wear...

I didn't install the pressure riser on mine, and also didn't install the servo springs. I just installed everything that was accessable in the valve body. If the spool valve that's stuck is the one that's replaced with the Superior steel one, then that may be the problem. My thoughts are that...

To solve my 2-3 flare, I did exactly what you're doing, with the addition of the Ford bonded separator plate. That was over 100K miles ago, and it has shifted perfectly since then. I don't know which of the 'fixes' did the trick, but I'd also install the updated separator plate to prevent having...

That explains why my Explorers have plastic drip pans located under the radiators. I always thought it was because of environmental concerns, but it seems Ford didn't want new customers seeing coolant puddles underneath their new cars. Slick idea.

That is typical. The gaskets shrink in the cold and a code is triggered, then when the engine warms the gaskets expand and seal again. They are easy to replace on the OHV.

The 2004 Ranger has auto locking hubs, and no axle disconnect. The dash selector has 2WD, 4High, and 4Low. If you installed locking hubs, then you could run it in 2WD low (with the hubs unlocked). This is with the automatic transmission. I'm not sure if the manual transmission equipped trucks...

The P0315 indicates a misfire during the first 1000 engine revolutions, and is related to the crank position sensor or its connection. Since the fault occurs when it gets warm, I'd suspect the connector or the sensor itself. You might try unplugging and cleaning the connector, and if that...

Alabama Cylinder Heads is out of business now. Rock Auto has several head choices for the 3.0, you might want to check them out.

I bought a head for a 4.0 from Alabama Cylinder Heads a while back. Since then they have changed their name; I'll see if I can get some contact info for you.

Hi LarryMax. Could you give me the contact for deleteing the PATS in the PCM? Glad you got yours back on the road, PATS is a PAIN! Thanks, Runnin'OnEmpty

Thanks Turdle, I indeed meant the connector and not the sensor itself. I should have made that clearer. Good suggestion on the ECT sensor. Jacob, assuming there is no MIL or codes present, this is probably something simple such as a poor electrical connection or a sensor getting tired. If a...

The metal strap at the bottom of the coil pack is grounded to the engine with one screw, if I remember correctly, and is there to dissipate any electrical field that may be generated as the coils fire. Although there isn't a direct coil connection, if the metal strap isn't grounded the engine...

Was it running OK before the cam syncro change? Are you sure it was at TDC on the compression stroke when changing the syncro? I remember something about the PCM going into open loop at WOT...? Maybe that gives a clue. I'd check the O2 sensor wiring or anything that may have been disconnected...

Maybe check with a scanner to see if there's a code pending. A code will point to the problem, but my guess would be something electrical to shut the engine down so quickly. Could be the cam sensor, but I believe the engine will still run when that fails...?

For years I've run BFG, but recently bought a set of Michelin ATX. The ATX runs quieter, smoother, better traction than the BFGs.

Sounds like the battery is going bad. Since it starts with a jump, that pretty well eliminates everything but the battery or cables, or possibly a corroded connection..

The fact it ran great with no overheating issues for a month after the work eliminates the headgaskets being installed incorrectly. One thing that comes to mind is the coolant isn't circulating correctly. Maybe the pump impeller is spinning on the shaft and not actually pumping the coolant...

Could the thermostat be installed backwards?

...... The ILCO key is a clone that's sold by ACE hardware, among others. It indeed has a battery inside that can be replaced. The battery generally lasts from 3-5 years. A discharged key will retain it's programming, so after a battery replacement, it should work again.

Fisher, you're talking about the lines running from the fuel pump assembly on top of the tank, right? I'm almost certain you have to pull out a locking tab on the fitting before it will separate. I had to examine this for a long time before it became apparent how it comes apart. No tool was...

I had the same trouble on a Ranger fuel pump. Going from memory here, but there may be a clip on one or both of the lines. The clip has to be pulled out or pried out with a screwdriver tip. After releasing the clip, the lines easily separate. At least mine did....

Thanks for posting the fix. What bothers me is that there were no codes triggered. MAF issues are supposed to store a code. So much for OBD II...

Just guessing, but maybe it's the PCV valve vibrating and causing the noise? They're inexpensive to replace, and probably due anyway... Explorer's IAC sometimes will sound like a lonely Moose, so that might be a possibility too...?

There's an indentation behind the rear wheelwells on the Sports that will look bad when the fender flares are removed. Personally I'd leave the flares on and paint them the same color as the bumpers.

I too like the Bosch pump. The last one I ordered included a wiring harness adapter to connect to either terminal size. It was short, maybe 3-4 inches, and was plug-and-play. When replacing the pump, change out both the soft lines since they tend to crack at the clamps and cause a pressure...

If there are no CELs or codes, I too suspect a faulty fuel pump. My Ranger had the same symptoms, and a new pump cured it. You can change the fuel filter, and check the inertial shut-off switch, but chances are it's the pump.

Blue one has 157K miles, Gold one has 66K, both run super. Wish Ford would make another 2-dr Sport.

Generally a bad headgasket or cracked head will show combustion residue in the coolant/reservoir. A bad lower intake gasket will flow coolant into the oil, and if it's at an inner cylinder there won't be evidence of coolant running down the block. You'll just have to start tearing into it to see...

I have the Monroe Coil-overs on one of my Sports. Maybe 5-6 K miles on them, and they do fine except for a few squeaks from the springs. I also have the EE anti-sway bar and an extra leaf, so mine is really tight in corners. The Monroes did not give much extra height, but they did make the rear...

OK it's running again. Took it for a short test drive last week and the engine is very quiet. No more chain rattle. Due to a radiator hose leak, the test drive was only about 3 miles, but the engine got up to operating temperature and it sounds good so far. Upon closer inspection of the old...