'Quick' Fuel Line Disconnects... not so quick to get off!

[Fisher_White]

Hey all, I've been trying to remove the two fuel line quick disconnects from the top of the fuel pump of my '98 Explorer with no luck. I've tried everything I can think of- a metal disconnect tool, PB Blaster, several methods of trying to take it off, etc. I'm not sure if I'm just not doing it correctly or if there's an issue with the line. Any tips?

 

[Turdle]

The best I can offer is the luck I had switching between the 2 lysle brand tools. There is a set of all white sleeves and a multi color set which have a pull tab on the end of each one. Then a lot of patience. It seems if you push the connector together while inserting the tool gently, while holding your tongue just right makes it pop out.
My inlaws Mounty had a connector which the previous owner tried a set of vice grips on. Even when the line was replaced and the old taken to a bench vice we could not get the connector finger springs to let go. The outer ring of the female side was distorted just enough to ruin it. Avoid grabbing that thing with any tool if you can.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I had the same trouble on a Ranger fuel pump. Going from memory here, but there may be a clip on one or both of the lines. The clip has to be pulled out or pried out with a screwdriver tip. After releasing the clip, the lines easily separate. At least mine did....

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i just battled this yesterday with my kids truck, but at the fuel filter (same difference however). shot a lot of penetrating fluid in the connectors, got in them with a dental pick to see if i could jar any crud in them loose, used the removal tools, swore at it...they can be a ***** sometimes.

 

[J$hort]

They can get pretty corroded. Using the tool is the best bet. I have had issues with both the fuel filter and fuel line connection in engine bay. The springs/clips that retain these are stubborn, especially when corroded. I'd hit it with lots of PB Blaster. Make sure you are pushing in to clear the spring/clip before pulling apart. You gotta push in to disconnect if that makes any sense. I had to replace the supply lines in engine bay as I could not get that one off. Probably not an option for the fuel filter. I'd take a simple stainless hose clamp over these any day.

 

[Justinwht]

FIRST...Get the right tool! There are two styles of quick disconnect tools. The one Autozone carries has only index finger tab to push on that doesn't apply equal force to both internal springs, O'Reilly's has two tabs for index and middle fingers.

Use PB Blaster (which no longer includes the spray straw) or the WD-40 version (with swivel tube - not so messy) to loosen any grunge.

Get a feel for how the tool works. Try it on the easy to get to fuel filter under driver's side rail right behind wheel well. Sometimes you can here a distinct click, or feel it snap back, or nothing noticed at all. The safety retaining saddles pop off with screw driver or needle-nose pliers.

You may or may not hear a click or feel a click when you push it back on.

 

[Fisher_White]

Just a quick update: I was able to get the smaller fuel line disconnected (somehow), but still can't get the larger one off!

So far I've tried using two different tools, including both 3/8" and 5/16" plastic rings from Harbor Freight (Pittsburgh Item # 97576) and a fairly odd looking 3/8" and 5/16" combination metal tool (Autocraft Item # AC522). I've used both WD-40 and PB-Blaster, both with a straw, let the connectors soak overnight, and repeated this process three times- all while using several methods of trying to remove the lines, including pushing both the fuel line connector and tool together, and then trying to pull the line off. I also tried to remove them both with and without rubber gloves, and both with and without twisting. I also inspected the connectors for any signs of damage resulting from previous attempts of trying to removing them, and could not find any. Still can't get the last connector off!

Are there any other tools worth trying out that I haven't used yet?

...And has anyone ever heard of a fuel line connector mod to, say, the tab style connectors? Would be a lot easier to take off for sure!

 

[SupaSwope]

I have followed this thread a little bit. And I am sure you have tried everything by the sounds of it. So I am just going to tell you what I did my first time. And I was successful within 30mins.

I left the fuel filter in the clip. Makes it easier.
I noticed your using either plastic adapters or the plyer type metal ones. I don't like the idea of plastic because it will bend/deform and I heard those plyer type ones bend a lot as well from reviews online.
I would recommend metal ones like these:
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...nect-tool/oem-4-pcs-disconnect-set/864648_0_0
Not telling you to go buy them or from autozone at that, Just heard good things about them on here and they worked for me.
All I did was push the tool in. I let the clip hold the filter from sliding. And was able to push then pull the the line out. But I did not get it first try.

I hope this helps somehow.

 

[Turdle]

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39400-...916&sr=8-2&keywords=quick+disconnect+tool+set

and

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-...916&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+disconnect+tool+set

Between the 2 I have been lucky, unless the connector has been damaged.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Fisher, you're talking about the lines running from the fuel pump assembly on top of the tank, right?
I'm almost certain you have to pull out a locking tab on the fitting before it will separate. I had to examine this for a long time before it became apparent how it comes apart. No tool was needed, the line simply pulled off after releasing the locking tab...

 

[JerryB2]

Get your self a pair of snap on disconnect tools. ( metal ) . Spray in side the connector with Blaster. or B 12 Use an air nozzle to blow out the rust and crud . Push the correct tool into the connector while twisting. Try twisting connector together. As has been mentioned do not use pliers or channel locks on the connector. Good luck.

 

[Justinwht]

I was able to get the smaller fuel line disconnected (somehow), but still can't get the larger one off!

Are you talking about the two parallel fuel lines sitting on top of the fuel pump? They are the same size on my '96 and '00 Explorer.
BTW there are five lines you have to disconnect - the filler and return lines (obviously) that are a friction fit, the two quick disconnect we're talking about, and a fifth push-tab disconnect line on the passenger-side, front-end of tank.

 

[Fisher_White]

Hey all, just wanted to make some notes to get rid of any confusion:

So far I have disconnected the electrical connector, the filler neck hose, the return line hose, and one of the quick disconnects that plug into the lines running parallel out from the top of the fuel pump. I also removed the metal clips from the tops of each quick disconnect connector beforehand.

Both of the fuel line quick disconnects are definitely different sizes- I measured the widths of both lines myself. One is 3/8" (the one that I'm having issues with) and the other one is 5/16". My new fuel pump assembly also has these two differently sized lines. Not sure why some are reporting that both of their lines are the same size- perhaps something different from year to year?

The fuel lines also definitely require the use of quick disconnect tools and don't just slide off- I inspected the quick disconnect connector that I was able to get off using the tool, and there are 3 metal prongs that keep the connector from coming off.

I have already tried PB Blaster, twisting/pushing/pulling, releasing pressure from the fuel tank via the schreider valve in the engine compartment, etc. I have also not used a wrench, pliers, channel locks, etc, nor do I plan to, and there are no signs of damage on either lines.


Here are some pictures of what I'm dealing with:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76191390@N03/albums/72157683493497056


Thanks all for the help!

 

[Fisher_White]

YES! YES! YESSS!

Finally got the last connector off! And I think I've found out why I was having such a tough time:

The quick disconnect tool needs to enter the fuel line connector while being as close to the fuel line as possible, and then expand outwards to push the prongs to the outsides of the connector. This is, unfortunately, a bit difficult to do, but I found a way to do it using the double sided AutoCraft tool (# AC522):

Step 1: Insert the tool onto the fuel line connector that you wish to disconnect (Let's say we're disconnecting the 5/16" fuel line using the 5/16" side of the tool)
Step 2: Push a pair of needle nose pliers into the alternately sized hole of the tool (in this case, the 3/8" hole). This causes the other end of the tool, the 5/16" side, to also expand outward while inside of the fuel line, which causes the metal prongs that lock the line onto the fuel line to get pushed toward the outsides of the fuel line connector, thereby releasing them.
Step 3: Push the face of the tool on the side of the tool where you are disconnecting the fuel line to counterbalance the force applied by the needle nose pliers- try to push directly on the fuel line, with no angle whatsoever.
Step 4: Wiggle and twist both sides like there's no tomorrow!

And that should do it- fuel lines that actually are (fairly) quick to disconnect.

 

[albator]

Thanks for the advice.
I'm struggling with the larger hose from the fuel pump...
I am using the Lisle 37000 tool.
I just bought the tool style you recommended, I will receive next week and try it. Fingers crossed.

 

[410Fortune]

brake clean / carb cleaner and compressed air in there BEFORE the PB blaster can help to remove any crud/sand/grime

These are like a chinese finger puzzle.... you need to push the fitting together, then insert the tool fully then try to pull apart.

I have every style of disco tool known to man, I have an entire drawer of the quick fitting disco tools. Plastic, metal, all makes and models....still once in a while you will get one of these fuel lines that just refuse to come apart. Sometimes when this happens the lid to a sharpie pen comes in really handy. You see the sharpie caps are tapered (skinny at top, wide at bottom) so you can trim them down to the exact size you need, make a slot so it fits overt the line, and push that baby in there....it has saved my butt a time or two.

The best way to get the stubborn ones I have found over the years is to clean them out first...not just spray with blaster and come back tomorrow, but I mean CLEAN with brake clean /carb cleaner and compressed air, then a pick if you have to. NOW put the blaster in there to help lube the spring as it slides up over your disc tool. As I said PRESS the lines together, keep them pressed together as you PRESS in the tool....some tools you can even use channel locks to help press it in deeper....THEN pull the line off the pump/filter/other line... Like a Chinese finger puzzle

 

[EB4X]

Here's a pic of inside/contact points of line (from fuel filter...surely the same/very close) ...as you can see you need to simultaneously release these four 'teeth' .....if this helps any....it was very time consuming using my plastic release tool...one end came off relatively quick...the other one took forever and a lot of coercing...

 

[410Fortune]

you are not alone
Many of us have to fight these connectors over the years
I have had to destroy like 2 of them total to get off, no other way about it they were not coming apart.
Then you have to repair the line and use a new fitting.
Nobody should ever have to deal with these, the old style was so much better!! Little plastic clip, pull it out, line comes off..... these things were created by the devil himself

 

[albator]

Great news!
I bought the scissors type tool and it worked. Yeah!

Thanks for the advice.
I'm struggling with the larger hose from the fuel pump...
I am using the Lisle 37000 tool.
I just bought the tool style you recommended, I will receive next week and try it. Fingers crossed.