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Also check the negative battery cable where it connects to the block near the starter. For some reason this connection tends to corrode and cause problems on Fords.

Ford has had the infamous torque converter shudder in previous years, particularly in V-8s. It's certainly a possibility. Try adding a bottle of LubeGard Red to the ATF and see if that affects the shudder.

That's almost certainly a fuel delivery problem. I'd check the fuel pressure; sounds like a bad fuel pump. Might be a good idea to also change the fuel filter.

There's a special tool available for compressing the constant tension clamps. Easier to use than the slip-joint pliers. I think they're called....wait for it....Constant Tension Clamp Pliers.

I had the same thoughts when installing a stainless steel valve cover gasket recently. It had a minimal rubber seal but was mostly metal. I installed using Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer, and it hasn't leaked a drop since. I would use the metal gasket, since it would conform to minor...

It's most likely leaking from the top O-ring, since that's where the pressure is. My new O-rings were also a different color, IIRC they were a light orange. If you apply grease to them, they'll easily pop right in. Dielectric grease or caliper slide grease will work in a pinch...

Curiously I had the same P0302 code that turned out to be the injector. This was after sitting for a few weeks while other work was done on the vehicle. When I replaced the injectors, I used a technical grease to install the injector O-rings. If the O-rings aren't lubed, it's possible...

I drill a 1/8" relief hole in all my thermostats, if it's not there already.

That sounds like you have a split in the feeder line going from the fuel pressure regulator to the hard line inside the tank. Pressure is being relieved through the split hose when the pump stops, and the split is also reducing running pressure. I noticed a split in my hose when...

Motorcraft is what I bought, and it's most likely what the dealer would sell you (at double the price). Another thing to check would be the fuel filler hoses. If you can reach them through the wheel well, maybe squeeze and examine for any obvious cracks. Also try tightening the clamps and...

A new fuel cap solved mine; that's the most common source of that particular code.

Sounds like the fuel pump relay is at fault. You can swap it out with the A/C relay for testing. Without looking at my wiring diagram, I'd say the 12v with key on or off is normal. One of the sockets you're jumping is probably constant 12v, since the relay does the switching.

It's almost for certain a bad fuel pump. You can cut an access hole under the rear seat (driver's side) to change the pump if you don't want to drop the fuel tank.

It has an O-ring seal, that allows it to rotate like that. The same thing had me curious (with a Fox Mustang) several years ago; apparently the seal works very well...

Great minds must work the same, LOL; I have a bottle of that stuff on my workbench and use it on everything. Used it on LIM gaskets with great sucess, and coated the valve cover gasket with it today. The right side seemed to be the only one leaking, and it was the easiest to get to, so...

The three types are cork, rubber, and Victor Reinz has one made of stainless steel with rubber seals. Which one would you guys recommend?

Remove the coolant recovery tank cap, and take a good whiff to smell for gas fumes. If you smell unburnt fuel it has to be from a failed head or headgasket. Also look for black residue in the tank. Good advice from Lobo, since the coolant passages are on the outside corners of the block...

Also, when a vehicle sits that long, the oil in the bottom of the pan tends to sludge up and clog the oil pump pick-up screen. If that model has a two piece pan, you can remove the bottom part and clean off the screen.

If you're concerned that the vibration is in the water pump, you can remove the serpentine belt to test. It won't hurt anything to run the engine up to 2K rpm for a few seconds to see if the vibration is still there. That will eliminate everything on the front of the engine except for the...

Glad you got the cam sensor sorted out. The rough idle could be from a split DPFE hose. That's the most common EGR related failure, and very easy to fix once you find the broken hose. You might also have leaking upper plenum gaskets, since it's showing a lean bank 1 code. You could try...

IIRC, my 3.0 TDC is the 6th tooth from the gap in the pulley. If you try to time it at the gap, timing will be wrong. Just throwing this out there....

If you're certain it was at TDC on compression stroke and the sensor is timed correctly, then remove the battery cable for about 15 minutes to reset the PCM.

The first things that come to mind are the flexplate and harmonic balancer. Since these were a matched set from Ford, you probably can rule out an imbalanced flexplate. I'd take a good look at the harmonic balancer to see if it's indeed the stock one. Also, the HB rubber insert tends to...

Just like with any electric motor, starting takes the most amperage. The fuel pump brushes wear out and lose contact with the commutator and cause the intermittant starting. Once the fuel pump is running, current draw is less and the fuel pump will continue running...until the next stop and...

If that CKP sensor is the original with over half a million miles on it, then I'd replace it. I haven't had the pleasure yet myself, and it does appear to be hard to access, although it's easily seen from underneath. If you remove the bottom bolt first, that should give more room to get...

In the absence of any codes, the next thing to look at would be the fuel pressure. Last winter I changed a Ranger fuel pump with only 60K miles on it. The brushes tend to wear out on the pumps, making for erratic pressures at different times.

Hose and clamps are safe enough, IF the hose is rated SAE 30R9 or 30R10, and the clamps are true fuel injection clamps and not the more common screw type. I always put a slight flare on the metal line just for added insurance, and add a protective cover.

I'd suspect those lines are obsolete from the factory. Like Vroom says, you'll need to fabricate the vacuum lines on your own, out of rubber or plastic.

The 20 second time interval suggests that it might be seat-belt warning related...???

You've already replaced the parts that are most failure prone. Only thing I can suggest is to take a look at the number 1 fuel injector. Also the electrical plug for the injector. Maybe remove it and spray with WD-40 and re-attach...

The code will still be in memory, even with the MIL off. I'd check it just out of curiosity. It might relate to something very simple, like a leaking vacuum hose, etc...

Where exactly are these capacitors in the PCM? Do you have to solder them in?

Apparently the CoolCollar is off the market, but I found these for sale: The price is reasonable, and if they really work they would be a good setup on an ATF filter to give additional cooling. I've also seen clamp-on magnets for oil filters that trap metallic particles, sort of like...

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Good point about the possible clearance issues. The crossover cat looks like it would almost touch a deeper pan, which would indeed heat the ATF. Might just install the spin-on filter that's been sitting on the garage shelf. That would increase...

There's a company called PML that sells a deep sump trans pan for the 5R55E series of transmissions. The pan holds an extra three quarts of ATF. The 4x4 pan is also deeper and holds more fluid. Are eilther of these pans worthwhile to exchange for the stock 2WD pan? Thanks, ROE

Welcome Alex. Generally an EVAP problem won't cause hard starting. Do you have a MIL light on, or an EVAP code? Hard starting, in the absence of a code can be caused by a faulty fuel pump, among other things....

As was suggested above, a shot of lube helps too. I used WD-40 and the metal release tool on mine. Those confound plastic quick-release clips are a real pain though...

I have replaced two pumps within the last year, one Bosch and one Carter (assembly). Good service with both. The Carter was exactly the same as the old Motorcraft (in an 04 Ranger). No experience with AC/Delco. Be sure and replace all the internal hoses inside the tank with at least an...

I believe the 99 has just a fuel supply line, that connects to the fuel damper. I left mine connected, and changed out the gaskets and injectors by turning the fuel rail upside down (with the fuel line connected). You need to remove the upper plenum first to access the fuel rail nut/bolt...

I recently had an injector go bad. It was the first for me too. Might have something to do with today's ethanol gas...?