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http://myweb.cableone.net/firerescue853/4lv6.jpg 1-4-2-5-3-6 just for gee whizzes

also your local ford dealer stocks them in their parts dept

Dex/Merc III for the A4LD. it should be a fairly easy process to do

i would just pump the pedal for about 5-10 maybe 15 mins....the air should work itself out of the system since its gravity fed

going back to your black fluid you prolly have some burnt clutch packs as well.......

my buddy went to wally mart to pick up the "good-ol FL-1A" for his ranger but they didnt have ANY motoC filters.....i can however tell you, (working at Adv AP) we still sell them as well as Auto Zone

suggesting the ignition module.....one day go out and pull off one wire, ground it with something and the crank it (it'll run like hell cuz itll be on 5 cylinders) just keep an eye on the spark. if the spark stops right b4 it dies, you ignition module is PROBABLY to blame

sounds like the master to me.....ive changed both on my 88 BII XLT. just an FYI every clutch i went though, my slave has just pumped right up after about 5-10 mins of pumping it. (new slave has been bought, with every clutch ive changed, ((averageing twice a year lol)). of course all of my...

i used to have Liberators on my 88 BII XLT. not a bad tire at all for the price.

for a street tire, the Firestone Indy 500 is a very nice on road/performance tire the BFG T/A Radials are also a good choice

might want to watch out when you rotate them. i had a set on a ranger i used to have, a shop cross rotated them and two of them threw the belts. they are a smooth running tire though

if its a new starter or recently replaced. make sure it was for a MT. we had that problem on one of our fire trucks. they are sticks and we had gotten a starter for an AT. theres a VERY small unoticable diff, the at starter will be slightly further away from the flywheel.

my a/c compressor locked up after a while of skreetching <sp> noise....if your not really worried about having a/c if and when it goes out, you can buy a belt for a non a/c system. thats what i did

35x12.5 15"

300$ for a set of four with about 50-60% tread life left.....definitely a MUST BUY!? or a no go

no sir not off the top of my head, this was prolly 3 years ago. and it still doesnt leak, so i hope my recommendation will help. they should be able to look it up on their elec. parts catalog

i have the yellowtop. i prolly couldve went the red though....i was intending on getting a winch but that fell through. ive had no problems at all with these batteries and probably will never go back to a CCA batt.. just an FYI, the different color tops represent Red - baseline Optima...

my 94 has AR clips, cept i think last time i did brakes i only used 4 ,1 on the top, and one on the bottom of each innerbrake pad. now removing the caliper (this makes me look foward to doing brakes on my X) the caliper is on with two slide pins that can easily b removed with a hammer and a...

first, topped of fluid level?....if full you might want to consider changing the filter. if your a DIY (do it yourself type) you can get a filter kit from any local parts house. and about 5 quarts of dextron/mercon III total cost about 25-30$. if not shops do them at a range of 150-250$. if that...

that would be the harmonic balancer.....what happens is that after XXXXXX amonut of miles, the seal actually wears a slight groove in the balancer itself...i came about this problem with my 88 BII XLT. i changed the timing cover seal and it still leaked. so i talked to my parts guy at Napa...

the in-dash light or the one on the actual switch itself?

in the event your talking about bigger, i was able to put 31x10.5's on my stock wheels and only had a very minimal rear inner fender rub, that was if you had the rear axle in a big twist. they fit fine and do a great job at filling up a lot of that empty wheel well space

they wont come out with the lower intake off? :S

hey guys just a quick question. i have a set of MT: Claws on my 94 and its gettin close to that time of replacent :( very hard on the wallet. a buddy of mine is lowering his 92 chevy back down and he said he'd sell me his set (Wrangler MT/R) for a good price. id like to know what ya'll...

saves a lot of bucks that way lol i was floored when ford told me 50 bucks a pop. i need to do it soon. i got about 3-4 ticking. its not that im losing power it just gets a bit aggrivating at times. and when im not thinking about it, ill freak out and think ima sling a rod thnx for the help

i was just wondering if anybody has tackled a lifter job on their 4.0 OHV. since ford had the bright idea of using hyd. rollers they cost me 50$ a pop brand new a piece. anyhow, i was just wondering if it would be a fairly easy job cuz this is my daily driver and only vehicle on the road...

31's will fit stock with no major problems...just a hair of inner rear fender rubs when you bind the rearend. i got 4" with 35's(considering a 2" body soon). but if 33's is the biggest you wanna go the 4'' susp. with 33's is not a bad choice. just keep your A4LD in mind when you start getting...

thnx, i got 4" susp, it gets a bit close on the fenders when ya hit some of the hardcore trails but its all good for whats around here. i mostly like the height for show. if i flip it all ill have to do is just get the 2" spring bushings for the front though right?

Hey everybody. i just joined today and i figured id ask the question id been wanting to know for a while.....Anybody ever flip the rearend under the springs on their 91-94 Ex? ive been considering it, im happy with what i got. i just wanna see if it would be a plus or a minus to do thnx for help

you replaced your A4LD with a C5? ive been thinkin along the lines of that b/c my A4's last anywhere from 8-12 months....the transmission shop that i sell sparts to as well as good friends with the owner mentioned something about a TH700R-4 conversion that will allow a 700 to be bolted to a 4.0L