Search results

I've ran high octane gas and still failed. Even with chemicals. I think it's something within e computer system like a sensor or replay or something I that area. I have a hard time starting it when the engine is warm. Not as in turning over but as in the firing up. Than when it does there is a...

I haven't done the test yet. But I remembered that any time the engine is warm I would have a hard time starting. Even if I changed the wires and plugs. So I got to thinking about checking the coil. I did the primary test. Got 0.7ohms, 1.4ohm, 1.3ohms And the secondary test. > all 13.46 ohms...

Replaced the ECT. Checked the old vs the new ohms. Both at room temp. The new one read 18 ohm and the old one read 21 ohm. The truck is running better. All I know the ECT has been replaced. Haven't done the test yet

Does anyone think that the ECT could be the whole problem??

Also another thing that comes to mind. Few time after a hot restart, like traveling to town going to a store and caming back out. Start it up. The truck would feel like a little of a miss to it. After revving it up a little it would smooth out. Sometimes it would take awhile to smooth out. Once...

Roadrunner- I opened the computer. Looks brand new on the inside. Nothing blowen. Also the connections on the plug look great too.

The spark plug and few months old. Double platinum plugs. All clean everytime. No build put of carbon. New PCV valve yes in the grommet, tightly

I've always wondered about the temp senor for the computer. I do know there are two. Can you check the omhs of it? I might look in to that about the computer. Does the cover just unscrew to see or do you have to remove the whole thing to see if so? I know I can unplug every plug wire at the...

I did run another code check today. Found no codes. Passed on that.

The van is a 90 so OBD I also. I just checked mine. Its tight. The smell was just enough to notice barely. Just at the tail pipe. No where else. Everything is sealed down stream.

I've replaced it once. Never had any codes for it. On a GMC van with a 350 EFI we had the O2 die. Now that was enough to make you pass out in the truck. replace it everything was fine. But it had a code.

Yes I have a new Thermostat and the stock air setup. I did check the MAF by using a voltmeter and see the volt with each rpm. Matched up just right. No skips. I have replaced all vacuum lines. Have check the FPR line for fuel in it (have that happen before) and the one coming from the Trans. No...

I was just guessing on running rich. Since adjusting the TPS. I've notice a better idle and even driving. Makes sense if they are checking at idle. Because I had to rev the motor to do a second test. The computer at the testing center thought the engine wasn't hot enough even driving it 15 miles...

And this for check the MAF > http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263750

What I have do so far is checking the MAF senor and the TPS. The MAF senor reads good for all values for each rpm range. The TPS was reading .90v I made adjustment back to .964v. The idle seems smoother. so maybe that's what it needs. For adjusting I used this page...

I'm just not sure what else to check or do. Read tons of things on the forum. My thinking is: Is it running to rich and what could be causing it? New heads brought the numbers back down but are now slowly going back up. Weak coil? Also running double platinum plugs. All connection under the...

Probably 5 mins. Yes I cleaned it the night before with MAF cleaner

Cats are good. Cato brand. All of the gaskets on the motor have been replaced. I did all of them myself. Using the master gasket kit. Everything has been torque to the right specs. 15 miles. To the testing center. I would rev it some while sitting in line. I know after the heads most would...

Anyone else know?

Tbars4 - After reading http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-hydrocarbons-HC.cfm I saw what number 6 says about low compression. My theory is IF valve are not opening to the full amount there would be less air coming in. Thus would be less air to compress but higher gas content. MAYBE????

ok. I'll look at them again. I'm still wondering if spending $230 to replace the whole rocker assembly, push rods and gaskets is needed since they are worn

Thanks. I've replaced all the vacuum lines with new ones. And have checked the other things too. Lucky here its just an idle tail pipe test. No dyno testing or smog

My tags expired in May. So I'm having to figure out something soon.

1991 Explorer 4.0 Ever since I've had this truck (8-9 years) I've always had a hard time passing emissions. I live in TN near Nashville we have to do emissions for the counties that touch Nashville. So not all people in TN might not know this. For me they do a tail pipe probe. Every year...

Yes. I have a short in my trailer. Without it no problems!

Might be the lower intake gasket. Mine did the same thing. Stop leak will not fix it. You'll be better with a gasket replacement. Not that hard to do with regular tools and know how.

Its not the switch!!! I had the same problem its the fuse. You're getting back feed from one of the other circuits in that switch. Thanks to Maniak

All of the switches have been replaced. The relay is the only thing.

Did you ever figure out your problem with your WOT relay??? Mine is acting the same way.

Nice, did you do both sides?

Make sure the cable has a nice flow, no tight bends. Mine bounced for awhile. I just moved the cable a little bit for it not to bind at different spots. Just an idea.

Hope you can get it working. So are the overlays self powered?

Great you fixed it. How are the white face overlays? Upload a pic? I know how hard it is to get to the back of the cluster. Power to you.

If the hole is above the filter, than yes. If not than no. Did you figure out the heating problem?

Check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Pull the vacuum line and see if there is gas in it. If there is you need to replace it. Maybe, raw gas is being sucked into the intake. I'm not sure about your heating problem, but could be bad sensor and/or blockage in the coolant system, causing it to...

It's gotta be something rubbing. Just hard to see anything in there.

Basically you open the door from the outside. You let go to the handle, the lock will drop down, causing it to lock. Not like a free fall, like being push down in normal use. No, this will not do this with the inside handle, only the outside. This is all happening only on the passenger side...

Got mine ordered.

I've been putting together Kohler engines which don't use oil pan gaskets. So you use gasket sealant. Thanks for the replys. I like using the small tubes that came in the head gasket kits for the explorer. Bigger the tube, more can dry out if you forget about the top.

Has anyone tried this on a first gen? My idea is using led strips at the bottom of the door. Will there be enough room, between the door and jamb?