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Are you using thin walled, chrome plated sockets? Stuff like that I try to use a 6 point impact socket on even if using a breaker bar or ratchet instead of an impact wrench. If it still won't budge then the bolt usually shears off. As far as cutting it, if a saw won't fit then can you get an...

^ Hmm, then they're probably floating around in the big glob of grease that was/is in it. I was a little surprised how much grease there was.

Yeah but it works. If I knew for sure that it was why my windshield washer wasn't working then I'd go ahead and replace it but I'm not going to the trouble if all that's missing now are two little tactile feelings when I turn it. Heh, maybe if I take that magic screw out again, those will come...

^ I suspect you and 96eb96 are on the right track. Without DRL or autolamp features, there's nothing else in the circuit that I see besides the main headlamp switch, which was already swapped, and the column multi-function switch which could be stuck. This assumes a stock vehicle. If there...

Got in my '98 the other day, and the windshield washer didn't work. I had a suspicion it was the steering column multi-function switch, not sure why, it just felt funny last time I switched from low to high beams and back. Granted I so seldom use high beams, it could just be that. Anyway I...

I don't know what that piece on the bottom left is, but from the pic the wires look too few and/or small for the lamp out module. You could pull it out, might have a Ford part # on it. The thing is, even if it is the LOM, the LOM just measures the current through it to the lights and triggers...

Won't the seat frame bolt holes match up either way? I'd roam the salvage yard looking for something in good shape, hopefully that cosmetically matches what you have.

Are you sure you have a lamp outage module? If so it should be under the floor console, or if you don't have a floor console I don't know, maybe under the seat then? Regardless I don't think it can malfunction in a way that causes the lights to stay on. Your headlamp relay is probably in a...

I suppose there is a tiny chance that someone will soon get into a wreck and need their airbag, but otherwise if this code is cleared and there is a fault, it should just come back. It seems less risky to me than ignoring some fault which might damage an engine.

I wonder if it is the horn ground. Does the horn work? Heh, even if it is, I don't know where it plugs into if it's coming from the horn instead of (too short to be?) going to it.

I've never disassembled one of those but one thing which I'd wonder about is if there way any prying involved which might have flexed a circuit board and broken solder joints, which now need reflowed, or it might have cracked surface mount ceramic capacitors. Ultimately I would put it on a...

I would have thought that an airbag code was a problem with the airbag itself, but would first try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Sometimes when in a low voltage state the electronics can go wonky and give false error codes.

^ Won't be much different, but the question was asked. However if something is running lower duty cycle with less winding impedance and a shorter duty cycle to suffer diode voltage drops, that would make it more efficient if all else were equal, but all else isn't equal when the 95A is a...

It'd be close to a wash, the lower rotational mass of the smaller one might have a slight efficiency advantage but also a slight lifespan disadvantage running closer to max capacity. The efficiency difference might be less than that of different brands, major brands being more efficient than...

On the following picture I'm seeing Pink/Yellow is Unlock, Pink/Green is Lock. Regardless, if you are not getting continuity between the 12V Blue/Black wire and either of the Pink/ wires when the switch is in the right position, then the switch is bad. You should be able to use a scrap of...

Yeah I wouldn't buy the Moog PS end links again. They're still there on mine, but I'm getting tired of checking to make sure they're still there (paranoid about them). I'm not quite clear on what you mean by the lip too big vs conical type, can you picture or link examples of these and what...

If you leave the springs alone you'll have a smoother ride, worse handling, and lower load capacity. I'd measure front to rear and left to right sag to see how its sitting, though if you're going to raise the front to level it out anyway, you have some side to side adjustment to offset the rear...

Which engine? 4.0L OHV V6, 4.0L SOHC V6, or 5.0L V8? I'd hook up an OBDII scan tool and look for codes set. If it can show live data like fuel trims, so much the better. Does it run well above idle? If so then I'd try cleaning the IAC valve first and if the A/C is on, turn that off to see...

The theories are right but if you don't want to replace everything then you need to get it on jack stands and start prying on parts to see where there's excessive play. Personally I would start with the items that don't require a wheel alignment afterwards, unless you need new tires anyway and...

While the vehicle could have different tires than the factory size by now, that size appears to be 235/70/16. 235/75/15 is the same width and as close as it gets to the same height so there would be no real visual difference as far as how much they fill the wheel well. The 15" would actually...

It's not a safety issue so you can wait, but yeah soon enough you'll probably need the passenger's upstream at least.

NADA is often on the high side. I'd say closer to $3K if in good condition because of the low mileage.

It should be noted that the only rim size that Achilles lists as approved for those Desert Hawks (in 31x10.5R15 size) is 8.5 wide. Some shops might refuse to mount them on the stock 7" wide wheels despite many 31x10.5R15 tires being approved for 7"W.

One difference on those that lack the zerk fitting is they are a plastic cup bearing design (as is the factory BJ) rather than metal. That means you don't have to grease them and they have less friction while steering, but are less impact resistant. I vaguely recall that I saw a video...

My memory isn't the greatest but I don't recall anyone here from England, at least not that participates regularly and might know who has RHD rack & pinions there. I checked Rockauto.com in the US (was my best guess who might have RHD version) and they don't carry one that's RHD in the regular...

^ Should be in the center of the dash behind the radio, or behind glovebox on the left side, or "maybe" up through the driver's footwell right side... in that general dash vicinity of ~ 1.5 square feet.

Keep in mind that the module is less likely (and more expensive to replace unless you get a junkyard pull) than other causes like failure of a transfer case or ABS speed sensor, or shift motor position sensor. Forscan app and an OBDII dongle might be able to see some of those sensors. More...

My driver's side rear door latch spring broke but apparently because I'd lubed it after having to replace my driver's door latch, it continues to work to this day. Unfortunately that doesn't help much if you can't get it open to lube it. In some topic a member posted that they found a...

Yes you can pull the fuse, assuming there isn't anything else on the same circuit that you need working. The front half shafts into the front differential will still spin as will the shaft into the transfer case which is where the electromagnetic clutch engages it. In other words if the...

^ You mean the guy did that once to get a stuck open sunroof closed or he does it regularly to open/close it? Seems like it would be a PITA to me, though come to think of it, I may not have opened mine in years. I'd also wonder how well the aged plastic working an aged sunroof mechanism would...

You could take your pick of which one to pry open and inspect brushes, commutator, measure for winding resistance. Don't know how they're held together, if bent tabs instead of welds then it's a lot easier to get back together.

Is this a factory middle dome light or is this possibly something added after the fact that wasn't wired into the others? If the latter, that leads to the solution that you could just rewire it to one of the others instead if you don't want the capability of independently turning it on when the...

I don't recall the specifics but you can hook up a scan tool that shows live data, look at what the 02 sensor readings are, and possibly pinpoint whether they look like they're reporting correctly or giving the wrong values. There's probably a youtube video about it, though I'd look for any...

If you're not getting 12V IN to fuse 13 then you probably have a blown fuse in the under hood power distribution box, OR when the engine was put in, something wasn't reconnected or a wire was damaged.

12 is a lot of codes! Check the under-hood wire harness connectors: 2nd gen issues? Try this first! '98 was the last year to have the return fuel system which should be around 35 PSI. If nothing else indicates a fault then you probably have a vac leak and could use a scan tool to show live...

Even if it isn't, if that was the original pump then you were about due for one and have that out of the way. If the aftermarket alarm hookup involved cutting/splicing wires then that's something else to look at, that the removal could have left behind dodgy wire crimps or even worse, wires...

I try to do things above or in the vehicle before crawling under, especially during the cold/wet/muddy winter and spring, would first see if there's power coming out of the fuel inertia switch (right side of passenger footwell on a '96, anyone?) since (in factory config) it's the last thing in...

Lol, you can't just seize possession of a vehicle whether abandoned or not. More likely it's someone in financial straits and they just haven't been driving it nor got the new tags, but it could have been stolen and left there, or owner is in prison... any number of reasons it's in this...

I'm wondering if you have an aftermarket alarm system. It seems awfully coincidental for this to happen right after an alarm goes off. First thing I'd try is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Next contact the prior owner and ask about an alarm. Next start rooting around looking...

I'd hook up a scan tool capable of showing live data, looking particularly at fuel trims... or anything else that sticks out if they aren't bad.