Seized LCA bolts, magic requested.

[Meat_PoPsiclez]

I'm attempting to pull my lower control arms on my 97, torsion bar adjusters are turned out and there's no preload on the arms.
On both sides the rear bolts came free quite easily, the front bolts are not being so kind.
First attempt I broke a socket.
Second attempt I used heat and broke a socket.
Third attempt I used a lot more heat, bashed the bolt with a BFG attempting to loosen whatever hell sourced rust-adhesive was holding it.. and broke a socket.

In all three attempts the nut hasn't turned at all (there's still a gap between the retainer and the LCA subframe), the bolt is clearly seized into the bushing's sleeve.

I'm all out of 21's, and frustrated.
I'd cut it out, but it doesn't look like there's room for me to work a reciprocating saw blade in there.
Help?

 

[shucker1]

First Step is to soak it down really good in PB Blaster or Kroil.

Second Step is to let it sit over night, relax and have a beer or 3.

Third step is try again tomorrow.

So you have the nut off? Perhaps and air hammer with a chisel point to drive the bolt out?

Beating it with a hammer is just going to mushroom the tip and make it harder to get out.

 

[96eb96]

Shuckers advice sounds good. I will also add a large air hammer AND an electric impact trying to spin the bolt at the same time can help too. These are repairs that make shops earn their rate sometimes. Without air tools it may not be possible to remove.
Sometimes bolts in bushings will completely seize to the metal sleeve. Heat is obviously not possible. There is really nothing you can do except cut off the bolt with an aggressive sawzall blade. The bushing is inexpensive or just replace the LCA.

 

[J_C]

Are you using thin walled, chrome plated sockets? Stuff like that I try to use a 6 point impact socket on even if using a breaker bar or ratchet instead of an impact wrench. If it still won't budge then the bolt usually shears off.

As far as cutting it, if a saw won't fit then can you get an angle grinder in, or at worse a demel tool and a handful of cutoff wheels for it?

 

[Meat_PoPsiclez]

Thanks for the help everyone.
Still couldn't get the bolt free.. I'm actually at the start of a SAS so i wound up just cutting the subframe out around it. Still unfortunate, as I was trting to keep as many parts as I could for my second Ex.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

do a SAS they said.....
it will be fun they said....

 

[Meat_PoPsiclez]

do a SAS they said.....
it will be fun they said....

You should have done more to discourage me

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

I doubt anything would've broken that bolt free but I want to let everyone know about this stuff called corrosion X. I'm a big fan of PB blaster and kroil but I think this could be better. It's thicker than the other two but it definitely soaks it. It's used in a lont of marine applications and I came to find out about it from my boss who used to sail all over the world. It's safe for electronic devices too and helps keep electric connectors corrosion free in working order. Just food for thought for anyone who wants to try it. https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...orrosion-x&dpPl=1&dpID=41JdU8nPioL&ref=plSrch

 

[Spudhut]

cut it ALL out...that's the way to do it!