Search results

^ Add shipping costs but yeah, just another example of hidden profit for shops, to markup parts that much. I've always been opposed to this practice, that if their profit margins are too thin, charge more for labor, open and honest instead of deceit about parts prices.

Take a look at that Dayco PDF I linked. Around size 5060883 (88.3", 6 rib belt), there are many sizes slightly longer or shorter in 1/4" to 1/2" increments. No need to buy a new pulley if you wanted to use a different belt instead of swapping over the old pulleys from power steering or...

Why "another" instead of that part #? I see it for sale here if no junkyards have one: https://www.varsityfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-wire-assembly-7l2z12a581cb * I have no experience with this seller. * However on same page it states "Description: As of 2-07-24 FORD has this part on a...

^ You can use a puller to swap pulleys if necessary, but if you get a belt where the part # includes the length, then can just deduce what different part # of belt you need, for the difference in length needed. For example my '98's 4.0L SOHC Dayco belt was part # 5060868 and 86.8 inches is the...

I wish I was surprised, aka "criminals" for trying to charge that much, and then when you realize what a counter-customer attitude they have, then you can't even trust that paying that much would be better than taking it somewhere else.

There is a 2014 Service Manual linked in my sig below. Being for '14, some things won't apply, particularly electronic features, but much of the mechanical should be similar if not the same. It's probably at least as accurate as Haynes, which IMO sort of skips steps and offers generic...

^ Yes, and then there's my case, where mine will probably be over 20 years old by the time it hits 100K mi, if even by then, so how long do I wait to decide whether it's mileage or also time that takes its toll, so that it's time to replace the water pump? The coolant was flushed and switched...

If they had not done an oil change yet, then I'd check the oil. If it doesn't look like a chocolate milkshake, then it is unlikely enough (if any) coolant got into the oil to potentially cause damage. Since it was already losing coolant when you wrote on July 2nd, ... then it is probably a...

Depends on where you drive, whether you need any level of off-road traction, or winter traction (or else would swap in winter tires if your climate dictates the benefit in doing so) , or just want a smooth rolling touring tire with longest life, or LT tires for hauling loads, or something with...

Yes, and yes, but whip out the multimeter and do the measurements. If power isn't getting to the collector pin, or signal to the base, then it's not the transistor. If power is outputting on the emitter pin (signal out) to the larger transistor, then it's not that smaller transistor. Well...

If the new transistors were located in the same part of the circuit on the "new" amp, biasing the output transistors, and given they were both 1101CB, it is probable that the new transistors are compatible enough, even if the gain is different, and that you have some other problem. The circuit...

That doesn't in any way suggest that anyone with a '14 or newer that isn't the base model, would have the smaller rotors. Plus, it is not believable that Ford QC would overlook the 13" rotors not being able to brake at highway speeds without warping, also considering that the larger rotors...

My '14 is still on the factory rotors and they seem to be wearing well though I've only got... hmm... about 20K mi or 30K mi, can't remember which but either way, nowhere near expecting to need new pads soon either. Do you mean shaking while applying brakes at high speed, or shaking without...

?? That's not something I've read about happening much on pre-'14 5th gens. Pre-'14, because Ford started putting the larger rotors on all after that point, so a '16 Limited would have the larger rotors. Maybe not the fleet/base version, IDK about that one, nor have I ever noticed anyone in...

You can't get good throw with the stock fog lamp housing, reflector in it just isn't designed to throw far no matter which bulb you put in.

System too lean on both banks, first I'd check fuel pressure to make sure it's around 60PSI, and then wonder about vac leaks, and would clean the MAF sensor just in case that's it, if it hasn't been cleaned in a while. You can look around for vac lines that fell off or cracked and leak, and...

You're considered modified when the topic is about something substantially different than the stock configuration. For example if you're lifted and have a GM engine in it but are talking about a faulty window motor, your topic is stock. If you're going to replace the window motor with a wheel...

Basically you're getting free, what a lot of people end up paying over $1k for out of (arguably justified) paranoia around 100K mi even with no evidence of a leak yet, because they don't want to risk coolant getting into their oil and trashing the 3.5L engine before they notice it.

Yeah, IDK the amount of labor for the 2.3L ecoboost water pump (couple hours, if that?) , but for either of the 3.5L engines, the internal water pump is an over $1K repair. Did you mention which engine yours has?

I may be backtracking too much, but just to make sure this isn't interfering with valid readings... 1) Wait at least 45 minutes to be sure the vehicle enters its lowest power state. 2) That 45 minutes includes, NOT opening the doors or hood if it has a hood switch, and not disconnecting the...

It's been so long since I fiddled with those, so I might just be making up nonsense ;) but I wonder if you could take a piece of stainless rod of same diameter as what's in the headrest, bend it to shape, and replace the one in it with that longer piece? I'm just assuming they are round.

You could delete the front diff if you don't need 4WD, just remove the front driveshaft, separate the CV axles so you have the splined end and nut to help hold the hub together. Some say this is necessary, but I thought I also read that it isn't, but I'd keep the end of the CV axle bolted on...

^ The point is that coolant remaining in the block, is part of that 12L total capacity.

AFAIK, the double row radiator core is thicker. If you have a picture showing the thickness or the dimensions, or the part # from the seller (link to it?) then someone else might know whether you have the single or double row radiator, but I have not seen both in person. There are topics where...

I'm not familiar with the connectors themselves but if that is measured on the correct contacts, 130 ohms is far too high, should be single digit ohms. I'd wonder if the wire is frayed in the door hinge boot like can happen with the power wires for the window and door locks.

I can hear the noise but have no idea. Are you certain it is coming from in the dash rather than engine bay (on the driver's side)? It just seems like this would more likely be a brake, wheel bearing, or CV axle problem given when it happens... or even slightly loose wheel lug nuts. Is there...

Does the double row radiator hold more coolant and if so, was that 12L spec for a system with it and you used a single row radiator instead?

Probably not harmful, but if it is producing more than a tiny bit of DC voltage on the output, that can blow the speaker on that output.

I didn't specifically state it, but you know that you shouldn't bother hooking the pictured amp back up before replacing Q805, right? I mean it is safe enough to hook the amp back up to test other channels if the speakers aren't connected, but that transistor is toast and no hope of salvaging...

Volume too high can blow the amp, would happen one channel (subwoofer being treated as just another channel for this) at a time since each has its own output subcircuit. It's not what I'd call a common thing to happen, but considering their age, the heatsinking may be compromised at this point...

^ Welcome to the forum! Those are kind of expensive at $143 (plus S/H?), and I'd be more comfortable knowing the dimensions.

People have been doing this for years on youtube... with leaf blowers. ;) (I'm not claiming it worked).

My reply was a little premature. Testing the outputs of the amp itself is not a bad idea, with stereo off, see if any AC (or even DC) voltage is on the outputs without the speakers connected, and there should be none, then with the stereo on (playing audio), there should be AC output, but very...

Why would you check the outputs at this point? You need to see if your speakers/wire is shorting out. If it is, fix that. Once that is right, you either drop in a replacement amp or repair the damage that you see and retest.

From what I can make out, I would replace each of the 3 transistors in turn, replace 1, plug back in and measure for parasitic draw, replace 2 plug back in and measure, then #3. The trick would be finding modern equivalents or at least known correct datasheets for them to do that. R (R807) on...

That 1101CB (?) looks like it may be an NPN transistor, definitely not a capacitor. NPN because some motorola and RCA part #s with 1101 in them are NPN. The resistor solder joint does look damaged and in need of repair. I can't tell from the pics if the other joints are acceptable or not. I...

I'm stating that a short could have damaged a transistor in the amp, so it became leaky or shorted, even without the speakers still connected. It is just something I would check before hooking another amp up, or finding and fixing the fault on that one, IF/assuming it has the fault. On a side...

One thing you could do is a resistance check on the speaker wires coming out of it to make sure those aren't shorting out. +/- for each channel should read about what the speaker itself is rated for, single-digit ohms. There should be a wiring diagram showing those speaker wires in the 2nd...

I know of no diagrams, but it might not be difficult to reverse engineer it enough to figure out if there's a problem. Toasty resistor, can you tell what value it's supposed to be? Even if not, measure it with a multimeter and see if the trace it's soldered to is intact or ruined the joint or...

Yeah, no fluid for electric steering.