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There are several options. If the hole's threads are damaged you could drill out the hole and use a new bolt and add a nut on the back (IF you can get to the back with a wrench to hold the nut while tightening it), or use a tap to try to correct the threads, but I'd wait on that and focus on...

Something else that comes to mind is maybe your battery and charger are *healthy* but you have an excessive parasitic power drain so the battery is low after sitting. If the problem persists, I'd pop the hood, wait ~ 45 minutes after the last activity (no using keys, remote, opening doors, etc...

Seems like a weak battery to me. Immediately after it starts slow cranking and you've stopped trying, I would take a voltage measurement... should be up near 12.6V. You wrote 12V but is that 12.6V or 12.0V? You can also measure voltage while someone else is cranking it, at the battery...

One thing you could do is use a multimeter to check continuity on that wire. Pull the fuse out of the suspected circuit then measure between the fuse box output contact and the wire. Make sure the wire doesn't read 12V at that point, so you know you have the right fuse pulled and aren't just...

I'm far more likely to be hit by some compromised driver than run into a fixed barrier so I for one, would rather be in my Explorer than a Ford Focus in an all else equal crash between the two, because of weight and bumper height advantages. The main thing I keep in mind is that it's a brick on...

Oh wait, I do have another pic of that relay box, labeled even.

Get this, then check for files named "ground-distribution-(n)-of 4.pdf": 1996-2001 ford explorer / mountaineer workshop manual (5567 pages!) (not the manual, the zip file I linked in that post).

^ I think there is the Accessory Delay Relay for the windows, turned on by the GEM. Here is a general description, might not be entirely accurate but seems about right to me. I'd credit the author but where I found it, he too was just quoting someone else:

I don't see any indication that some like the turn signals have anything to do with the GEM, but the wipers do, and probably the heat since you have the EB edition with EATC automatic climate control, and AFAIK the 4WD needs the GEM too to activate the relay. From what I've seen, if the GEM...

The battery saver and accessory relays should be in the (covered?) box near the gas pedal, up and to the right. I hope these pics are correct, they don't quite match but it's all I have of them.

The fuses were probably just installed at the factory whether it has the feature or not. Your diagram looks pretty much identical to the one for my '98, that I took from the owner's manual and put into the following pic so I could have it printed out all on one page:

Check that diagram I posted previously. The GEM should be pulling battery saver relay coil pin #2 down to ground to activate the relay coil. That relay could be bad, or the accessory ("ACCY") Delay Relay after it. If you just want to get rid of the GEM for windows, cut the "12V Blue/Black" in...

I suppose if you had to, you could pull the chips out of non-paired keys until you get around to programming them in, IF having two chips confuses the system. On the original '98 key I'm looking at, there's clearly a plug in the top that you should be able to pry out with an X-acto knife or...

You can also get a new key cut and transfer the chip to the new key, or IIRC you can use Forscan app on a PC with a wifi or bluetooth OBDII ELM327 dongle to program a new key w/chip bought on (wherever, Amazon, eBay, etc) and cut to match. Keep in mind that you may be wearing out your lock...

IF I recall correctly, a GEM fault could cause the one-touch down feature to stop working, but from the diagram it looks like the switch is an alternate path that should still work even if the GEM circuit fried. There are relays before the switch but if the other window switches work then...

See if this matches, though if you get lucky it might not be much more work to pull the boot back and find the broken wire, solder it back together or add a length of new wire between the two broken ends to increase the flexibility in that area, with heatshrink tubing on it. Even if you can't...

AFAIK the RAP is not the brains for this. It handles the door keypad and remote fobs. Assuming you have the right keys with the chip in them, the most likely fault is probably a broken transceiver module in the steering column next to the lock cylinder, and that is not coded to a specific...

A lot of people slow down corrosion with some axle grease, silicone brake grease, or petroleum jelly. Silicone brake grease is most effective but also the biggest PITA to get off later should you want to. The axle grease and petroleum jelly will dissolve off with gasoline/diesel/etc solvents...

Full description needed. One line tells me you're not trying hard enough.

I might try a sealant as a stop-gap (lol, pun intended) measure but just to buy time to do a teardown in spring, taking the approach that it might be head gasket or head crack but if you can't locate it with certainty ahead of time then you just start tearing it down and looking for the source...

Yeah I'd grease the ball joints, take a spray bottle of strong detergent solution and spray around (into) the sway bar bushing (not both at same time or else you haven't eliminated one or the other) and if that doesn't tell you, pull the wheel and poke/pry/wiggle everything. I can only assume...

Looks like fuse 29, assuming your fuse setup is the same as mine.

I would've thought bad ignition switch would affect more than just radio, like HVAC blower, and no click sound. Anyway it looks like that might be fuse 20, you could check it for 12V with ignition on the next time the radio goes out.

I don't think there's a relay for that so the click is strange, will be too hard to locate since it doesn't happen regularly. All I can suggest is wait till the radio goes out again then trace the whole circuit with a multimeter to see where power stops. Do you mean that ALL power is lost to...

Never tried them, but you might send a private message to those you found using them to ask how they held up, in case they don't see this topic.

I clean my IAC every year or two and have tried 3 combinations: Stock rubber gasket, hand-cut paper gasket (no gasket goop, using a roll of bulk gasket material from (Autozone?)), and both the rubber and a paper gasket at the same time. All worked fine, though I don't recall the factory finish...

Yes those look like the heater core pipes and they should have been hot after a (very) few minutes running, unless the climate control is set to (colder, something other than heat) then the heater core valve should close. Follow those rubber hoses to see if there is a heater core valve, which...

Could just be a low battery from a dying alternator or other charging circuit problem, but if it stays perpetually low then that could damage the battery itself. You might also check the two bulk connector blocks under the hood, since so many things run through them that might account for...

It could be a combination of factors, one being how you're calculating MPG but also the slow speed stop and go till you get to the highway. Other things that can reduce real MPG are low tire inflation, heavier and/or aggressive terrain tread tires, or larger than stock diameter tires which can...

You're barely getting it warmed up from 7 minutes running. This might be worst case scenario and everything is fine, but do hook up a scanner and look at live fuel trim data.

^ Agreed, a heat shield rattle will tend to continue sitting there idling and to rule it out one can merely wrap some solid core, uninsulated wire around it a few times and twist it tight, though also look at the heat shields on the pipes and muffler and for broken exhaust hangers. I suppose...

I don't have any ideas unless your GEM module itself is dying, maybe somehow got water in it? Just forget I wrote that because I don't now. I do know a failed relay might stop the fan from working but that's all, it just wouldn't work. The only other thing that comes to mind is that low...

What's the history of the vehicle, was check engine light on the whole time you owned it or was there some off-roading or road debris that tore up wiring recently? I'm just saying that whatever caused that could damage fuel pump wiring too. Cheap, will it last? Rock Auto.

Hmm, those are metal film resistors but the only metal film I see on Digikey that's a close match, is an outrageous $16. Y116950R0000B9R Vishay Foil Resistors (Division of Vishay Precision Group) | Resistors | DigiKey For that reason I would either switch to searching on Mouser (et al) or just...

I later added more to my last post. Also if a digikey search turns up two different offerings in the same package size but one rated at a little higher wattage, pick the one with higher wattage since heat seems to be what causes those solder joints to fail. Also Digikey is probably the...

I see an IMG tag but no picture. I don't know the resistor value but might be able to figure it out if I had good pictures of the circuit and/or a Ford part # that could lead to some online. Hmm, okay I looked around and now understand the significance of that "510" in your title. That means...

Meh, I don't buy into that. People who drive that much with a vehicle getting such low MPG aren't all that interested in the fuel costs. it'd cost me over $110 to replace all 4 and I don't drive my older Explorer anywhere near 12K mi/year. Frankly I wouldn't advise people who are putting on...

Carefully read the OBDII adapter dongle reviews on Amazon. Many products which claim something like "Works on all '96 and newer OBDII vehicles" do NOT work on vehicles using the old J1850 protocol that this generation of Explorer uses. First one I bought was a cheap tiny translucent blue type...

I'd hook up an OBDII scan tool (or dongle linked to phone or tablet) capable of displaying live running data and look at the fuel trim #s and see if any codes are pending. Also check battery voltage, a weak battery can make it run poor for a little while when cold. If it also cranks slow...

I put a walmart maxx 65n in mine. Best value at a little under $100 unless you figure you're going to roll the vehicle so an AGM has a clear benefit.