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Who is this person spamming a bunch of links in multiple threads?

Yeah, I'm not clicking on that link!

I realize I may have hijacked this thread somewhat. For me it was more about 18 vs 20 for winters. It doesn't seem to make much sense to try to get 20s for winters. The cost is significantly higher and 18s have better, safer snow traction. I definitely want two sets of rims for easy DIY...

Back on subject, as I've been on the hunt for winter tires, I saw a video where they were doing TPMS programming after switching out wheels on a Mustang. And there are clips with recessed divot in stock wheels, and when switching to a different set of wheels, you need to remove the clips or else...

I found this, which shows that there is a slightly different spacer distance. What makes it extra confusing is that both models show a "range". I have no experience with wheel spacers, but it sounds kind of complicated. Any thoughts? http://autotk.com/wheels/ford/explorer/#2017

Okay, thanks. Let me double check with the dealer to make sure they'll fit.

I'm inclined to take you up on the offer. Looks like the stock XLT wheels. What year Explorer did it come off of?

Should I be worrying about starters, door handles, and wiper arms -- seeing I already got mine?

So question.... do you think it's better to pay $360 each for perfectly hubcentric Ford alloy wheels or $150 each for aftermarket wheels that will need the hubcentric rings to fit?

I realize that. There has to be some balance in this world though. They do make winter specific alloy rims that are durable. And there are tradeoffs too. While 18" steel rims are available, they are very heavy. But because of the extra unsprung weight, they will improve winter handling. Lighter...

I do not believe those aesthetically please me (putting it mildly). Granted on my weekend road trip to Whistler with my Smoked Quartz (aka black) Sport, I had way more cars move out of my way. Love it. Don't think I need police hubcaps to add to that.

Thanks! I've used tirerack when I lived in the US and feel it is the best online tire/wheel shop, but it's prohibitively expensive to use them to ship to Canada factoring in exchange rates, shipping, and duties. Canada has 1010tires and a couple other site, but they are inferior and don't...

No, I have a new 2017 Sport. I'm buying a separate winter set of tires and rims and likely downsizing to 18" for practical and economical reasons. I was just saying I like the look of the 20" magnetics. Currently leaning towards the Touren TR9... but not certain. They are $151 CAD per wheel...

Ford Explorers don't corner well. It doesn't matter what wheels or tires you put on them. My 2017 Sport with 20's ride quite nicely on surface streets and are amazingly quiet on freeways at speed, but I'm considering 18" hub-centric wheels with asymmetrical winter tires. I'm certain the other...

Unless he's quoting L/100km instead of MPG. Anyways, I've always switched to aftermarket brakes/rotors/calipers in all my cars whenever the time came to replace them. You get better quality for less, and none of these items are ever a warranty item, unless you pay for the ridiculously expensive...

I feel you, I have the same first world problems as you :)

Just a couple new ideas to throw out there. My wife's CRV exhibited similar characteristics. There was a tire rotational squeal that started at 20km and sped up until about 80km and then went away. It turned out to be one of the brake calipers seizing, but we suspected it could have been another...

I went through a similar process. Basically 7-seater Japanese SUVs focus on good road manners, but have weaker engines that prioritize good fuel economy. While American cars go for performance over economy. I used to own a 2006 Jeep Commander which was indeed a 7-seater. But Jeep doesn't make 7...

Clearly, the OP wants it and had it before. I also don't think they are needed or desired outside of a disability. My almost 3 year old is able to climb into the car seat. A sport rides lower than other explorers.

What about simply pulling the fuse for the code lock and never using it again?

I used to live in Southern California and bought a Lexus in Tustin, CA -- near LA. Tustin seems to be a very aggressive hub of car dealers that sell at really competitive rates. Don't know about Ford, but imagine they will have a dealer there. I think every dealer is there. Try to get a low ball...

Btw, the 2017 Explorers use the very new Micro2 and Micro3 fuses and I couldn't find any fuse taps or even extra fuses at any of the common parts places. That, and in combination with the horrific placement of the fuse box, I wired my dash cam to the A-pillar. Apparently you can wire it to the...

I know, it was like barely a week ago and for the past month+ as well. Guess it just expired. Just saying we have it good. Also don't see American's ever getting a new loaded Sport for $40k USD before taxes and fees.

Why is Ford mean to their own country? Canada ends up getting the lowest prices after exchange factored in. My loaded Sport was $53,000 before taxes. Which boils down to $40,300 USD. Even with our higher taxes, we still destroy Americans buying American cars in Canada -- although that's the case...

4.8 seconds. Stock Audi SQ7 -- 7 seater.

I'd say try to get a local dealer to match. With the Ford Employee pricing coming to an end soon, not sure how good of a deal you can get by shopping around. Also when I got my ESP, the deductible is lower if I take it to the dealer I bought it from. $50 to the dealer, $100 to other dealer. But...

I was able to repro it. This morning in Vancouver was a chilly morning, lots of condensation everywhere. I started the car up cold, no problems at all. Made a 20 minute stop for an appointment, and when I came back, I got the oscillating throttle while backing up on low throttle. Was barely an...

Okay I think that fits it well, when the car is already warmed up and you stop for a few minutes. Happened after picking up fast food, and another time after stopping at a bakery.

I'm hacking Fred's post on page 7. He got pedals from China and had to some work to get them to fit. In any case, I like the look of these. They match the ones that show up on the Ford official accessory site... but of course I can't actually find the part for the 2017 Explorer (also tried...

Okay thanks for the responses. I feel a little better now, but it is a little odd. Anyone ever try to get this looked at? It's pretty minor, but it's almost like the car needs a moment to warm up before you drive off or something. Wonder what's really happening.

2017 Explorer Sport, 1000km on it today, almost all of it city driving. I first noticed past weekend when wife drove, she pulled out to do a U-turn and I thought she was driving badly... was like she couldn't control the power and was hitting the gas and letting off, hitting the gas, letting...

Glad I can help! I've been using mine for a year now. The new one is the Thinkware F770, which has a couple improvements over the 750, so go for that one! Also I was wrong about one thing, the rear dashcam is 1080p, not 720p.

Sure it does. Exactly the same as the Canadian site. Just click on the finance box while configuring: If I bought mine in the US, I would have gotten 0% interest and $1750 rebate... pretty nice. But still with exchange rate, $53k CAD = $40k USD, so we win even with higher taxes and higher...

I was able to get 1.99% on a purchase over 4 years in August with Ford Employee Pricing and Costco Rebate, which was good -- same deal until end of September. In July, it was 2% higher, so I didn't pull the trigger. The US gets lower rates.

Kind of curious how this all goes down, especially in Canada. Because if you don't get the car before the end of September, you could potentially be losing out on amazing incentives or good finance rates. I imagine anyone that ordered in April probably didn't get any good deals at that time...

Hanoudi and I have been trading PM's. He's also Canadian. Btw, why would Ford Canada sell 3rd party extended warranties instead of official ones? I just assumed that because I was getting it with my new car, that it would be fully legit. Apparently same one that is used by several other...

Ironically, this is the first new car I ever bought. On average, I've owned my cars for 5+ years, but normally buy them used 2 years. I made an exception this time because cars are starting to come out with decent safety technology. I bought mine almost 4 weeks ago and loving it! If you are an...

Also I'll save you some time. Don't bother with the 2016 -- they don't have Sync 3. Sync 3 is fast and responsive, pinch zoom, etc. You'll want that. Plus any money you would save by getting the 16 will be lost in depreciation.

Hi, having been a fan of "add-a-fuse" in the past, I literally just completed a full DIY install of a front & rear hardwired dashcam with both constant and accessory mode, allowing for parking surveillance, in my new 2017 Explorer Sport. I didn't use fuses this time, tapping into the A-pillar...

Here's some footage. All of it is rear dash footage by coincidence although still 1080p for both cameras. Actual Accident Footage: Car is actively driving. Insurance ruled me 50/50 fault until I supplied footage, then ruled other driver 100% fault. This was the same camera installed in my...