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Does it ever act different on the same day? imp

I, too, am "old school", and can tell you that, having seen, caused, and sometimes (!!) enjoyed electrical fires, no one back then, or now, having a smattering of "electrical smarts" would use a "bigger fuse" or aluminum foil! IMHO, shame on you! And, yes, I have the schematics, and will post...

When you fill your tank plum full, note where the gauge needle rests, then check how many miles have been driven when you detect that the needle has begun to move a bit. You may be surprised how many miles went by, with almost no fuel used! Ford sending units seem to always have been pretty...

In reality, unless hunks of foreign material are found in the oil pan, and the fluid drained out is not deteriorated in appearance, or contains shimmering metal dust in it, replacing the filter is not necessary. But I tend to replace them, anyway! The auto trans. under normal conditions does...

If #17 is protected "upstream" by a higher-rated protective device (Power Distribution Box under hood), it is possible that device has blown to open those circuits. You actually need Ford wiring diagrams for the vehicle to determine how the electrical "tree" branches down to the individual...

These vehicles have quite a large number of possible noise sources due to failed components. Add to that the variety of differing descriptions of the nature of the noise (whine, bumping, roar, grinding, etc), throwing out suggestions is just that: Ford Shop Manual has a section devoted to noise...

I have read it advised to replace injectors every 50,000 miles! (??@@#). I have also seen engines with 200K on their injectors still working fine. So, it seems wasteful to simply replace for no reason, but in the case of troublesome problems not easily solved, then it is justified. imp

Thank you for that, Brook! I am stuck here in the boonies with only dial-up available, and therefore am limited in how much can be reasonably done in an evening! imp

So did I. Try looking up some of the transmission parts houses on-line. Surely they have separator plates for sale. imp

My simple mind finds a few things in the above description to be troubling: 1. PCM can easily measure, accurately, time intervals between toothed wheel segments turning with the crankshaft, and interpret lengthened time intervals as being possibly caused by loss of torque produced. Trouble...

Remove the center section's cover plate, wipe a number of ring gear teeth nice & clean, look closely at their surfaces. If the driving surfaces of the gear have a nice, mirror-like finish, shiny, not gray or discolored, or rough-looking, the gears are OK. It is a good idea to raise both...

Rear (or front) gear noise is often the result of misalignment between the ring & pinion, caused by failing bearings on either. The gear noise is often loud enough to easily overshadow noise made by the bad bearing(s), which is often interptreted by the repair place as a need to replace the...

Assuming you are referring to only the rear axle center-section, containing the gearing, and not the associated axles and hardware, is there some reason why you do not consider rebuilding the existing unit? Unless a catastrophic failure, such as gear teeth being broken off, which frequently...

These vehicles CAN be placed on jackstands, supporting the suspension points appropriately, not by the frame, wheels removed, and run in Drive to pinpoint noise location and/or source. If a non-AWD the transfer case must be placed in "4X4 HIGH" to avoid the bias clutch from engaing/disengaging...

In the case of wheel hubs having user-adjustable bearings, such as found in front wheel hubs of 2WD vehicles, incorrect adjustment of bearings can allow rotor "wobble", creating not only unwanted brake sensations to be felt, but also allowing slightly out of balance tire(s) to magnify the...

Haphazardly guessing about sources of slippage or incorrecty engine speeds with these transmissions is akin to peeing into the wind. You need to check for Trouble Codes. The flashing O/D OFF light is done in response to the computer detecting an incorrect shaft speed internally, or an...

By "rear drain", you mean the vehicle's rear A/C unit? If so, then yours must have the system with 2 evaporator cores, one up front, one in the rear. This sounds as though your rear evaporator coil has sprung a leak, or, a fitting or other connection close enough to the evap. to allow the...

If you take someone's word for it, and they are wrong, you may wind up running a close-enough tap into your block and ruin the threads. I like to measure the bolt, over the threads, use a dial caliper or micrometer, figure out the size in mm, if your tool measures in inches. 1 mm = 0.03937...

I would guess you could clean it, but the fine screen in it is not accessible, so swishing solvent around in it is about all that could be done. For the couple bucks they cost, replace it! imp

Need to know better what is meant by "shifting very hard"-- taking a long time to shift, such as shift points delayed until too high vehicle speed, or, shifting roughly, but at the correct time. First determination must be whether all shifts are affected equally. If shifting roughly, all...

Grade 8 or Grade 5?? For what it's worth, guys, there has been a running argument going on for years among race-car builders which strength bolt is preferable, if either is strong enough in a given application. See, Grade 5 will "stretch" just a bit farther after yield point is reached...

Class Idea!! Rumple, you are a wizard, for sure. Like your idea! It even beats my considering drilling & tapping a drain hole in the periphery of the TC, which I reconsidered doing, not so much out of fear of drill chips entering TC, but rather forces acting on the plug trying to unscrew it...

The reason it is flashing may or may not be of great importance. If you know it is not, you can of course shut off the light, place tape over it, or whatever, and let it go at that. But, what if later on, the light needs to flash to warn you of a very significant problem, one that could leave...

My '04 Explorer Ford Shop Manual says, regarding 5R55S torque converter: "Remove converter drain plug and drain fluid, if equipped". My '04 converter has NO DRAIN PLUG in the converter. So, "changing the fluid" is a moot point, since draining the pan will leave several quarts (at least)...

Your Ex. has more than one U-Joint! It may have 2 or even 4! If it is a 4X4 it will even have some special U-Joints known as Constant Velocity Joints! Be sure to get the correct ones. We usually do not mess with them until they begin to give trouble, but occasionally one fails dramatically...

My understanding of the limp home mode is that it takes over as running strategy only when the loss of a sensor input partially diasbles the PCM's ability to continue running using it's normal program. However, I lack enough experience with EEC-V to say that lack of transmission feedbacks...

The change done to F-150 rims in '97 caused many headaches for the unwary. For example, Jeep used the same bolt pattern as Ford for years & years. A guy bought a set of late-model Ford F-150 alloys w/tires for his Jeep, then found they almost fit. He sold them to me for $150 for the 4 of them...

Ford F-150 wheels used the old familiar bolt pattern of 5 lugs on a 5-1/2" bolt circle for many decades; but, 1996 was the last. In '97, they went to a metric designation, almost the same, but just enough diffeerent that '97-up rims will not fit older F-150s. Now, as far as I know, Explorer uses...

No comprende here! Just how does air get into the power steering system while disassembling the hubs? It suggests that if air can get IN, then steering fluid will leak OUT, through the same route. Is this something peculiar to rack & pinion steering?? imp

Yes. However, some gear-related hum will be waived-off by the repair group as "normal and acceptable". Actually, the type of gearing present in these axles is supposed to be silent in operation, due to it's design: the gear teeth do not slide over one-another, but rather experience rolling...

Looks to me, IMHO, that: 1) Obviously, the lock cylinder tumblers ride on one edge of the double-sided key only. Only reason for double-side teeth is convenience of inserting it quickly into the cylinder. 2) The PCM "reads" the 2 keys supplied with it originally. More can be...

VC is a doubtful source of whine. If you can pinpoint source as from front or rear, my money would be bet on differential noise, as you mentioned. Failing bearings there usually give themselves away before they can allow enough "play" to affect the gear tooth contact pattern, which causes whine...

No, I don't, but anything seems to be possible. imp

Afterthought. Like a good belch, I guess one should have immediately thought, WTH could that bolt have caused to go out of whack right there where it was jammed? Glad you finally found it without tearing the engine apart! imp

Alternator bearings can make a very loud, high-pitched screech, since they are turning about the fastest of anything in there........ To check them, remove drive belt, spin alternator by hand, noting any roughness, noise, or scraping sounds, no matter how slight. Good bearings spin silently...

'04 Explorer My '04 runs smooth as silk, I have no issue with anything about it's performance, other than the pesky converter lock-up clutch which is now being investigated, 100K on the truck. If no/few operational issues as mentioned in the thread calling for re-flashing PCM are present...

Annoying? Hi! Maybe these schematics will help you. If you meant annoying related to lack of response, I been there!! Ha, Ha! No offense intended to all the great knowledge & info available here! These are from '04 Shop Manual; 1st. is switches, 2nd. actuators. Should be same scheme in...