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We seem not to have considered camshaft bearings badly worn, bleeding away a lot of oil volume (and therefore pressure).

Best way to tell is to LOOK and see if there are TWO fuel lines existing between the fuel tank and the engine. Vapor lock occurs when fuel BOILS inside the confines of the fuel delivery system. This was a problem encountered with carburetted engines but is NON-EXISTENT with EFI fuel systems...

It should still be in warranty: have you approached the rebuilder?

I would be remiss to not try to help a fellow Chicagoan!

First, understand the "OD/OFF" light is used as a warning only; it does not mean OD (5th. gear) is at fault. The Torque Converter Clutch operation may easily be checked by careful use of the TACHOMETER. Your eng. speed at 55-60, along with the code described, indicates the vehicle is operating...

All high-grade fan clutches have an internal valve which controls the angle of impingement of fluid upon internal blades, as well as negative friction coefficient fluid which THICKENS as it gets hotter, thus driving the blades with more force. Some clutches have an external thermal spring...

ALL pinion gear bearings have preload set by use of either a Crush Sleeve, or solid shim, in the case of heavy-duty application. Preload is critical to good gear and bearing life, as you already know.

Easily solved quandary. BOTH MAF and IAT sensors are mounted in the inlet air duct, sometimes right next to one-another, before the airflow enters the throttle body, sometimes COMBINED into one small module having only one electrical connector instead of two. Here are the separate units...

The anti-theft light SHOULD illuminate SOLID ON when the key is turned to RUN before starting. The light SHOULD stay ON about 5 seconds, whether cranking or not, then go out completely. A rapid flashing indicates failure to "recognize" the key, and starting is disabled. I know of no reason why...

Not clear whether the '06 is 2WD or 4WD. If 2WD, conversion to 4WD requires MUCH WORK.

One point missed: The TCC lockup CANNOT occur with a cold transmission. The fluid temperature sensor tells PCM disallow TCC engagement until warm-up is acceptable. So, how are we assuming the TCC is locking up "cold"?

How do you know the injectors are getting no fuel? Even WITH fuel, if they are not being energized, the thing will not start. Starting fluid WILL cause firing-up. You need to determine whether there IS fuel pressure in the fuel rail; if there is, the injectors are not functioning. If there is...

True enough, but slippage when delivering power would be pronounced, and that wasn't mentioned. At idle, line pressure can drop especially in well-worn units, and become noticeable.

Low on hydraulic fluid or intermittent electrical connection, possibly at transmission/harness connector.

When my ABS Module bit the dust, several non-brake issues were immediately apparent as a result. Speed control was dead, TC lockup was deleted, and 4WD was inoperative, all in response to the ABS problem. Even went into "forced Engine Idle" one time. Replaced ABS Module with a used one, now all...

Thank you! So the lash adjuster is in essence a hydraulic "valve lifter". Are they prone to "float" like hydraulic lifters?

Did you spill any oil topside? It takes a long time for a small spill to gradually find it's way down to where you are seeing it. Were the images taken only a short time after the change?

Wish I knew more about OHC designs, but offhand, your wear pattern does not look alarming, just my opinion, you understand. One thing not clear to me is how is "valve clearance", or lash, maintained, as the cam lobes appear to actuate directly on the valve stems. There must be a variable...

Note the oil drain passage, which I have described endlessly in threads concerning fluid leakage between transmission and transfer case. A gasket is supposedly used to exclude excess dust from the cavity, but nonetheless that cavity vents it.

The filter may be the culprit. It must fit snugly and not allow introduction of air into the fluid. I would remove the oil pan and the filter, taking note of it's "fit" in place. Also compare it carefully to the old filter, which hopefully you still have. If you do not have it, go to a different...

Be certain to place a few gobs of good quality grease in between the 2 lips of the seal before installing it. Rubber sealing elements need lubrication too, to prevent overheating and premature wear-out. The 2-lip design tends to exclude all oil from between the lips.

The dual-lip seal for the transfer case input shaft has 2 garter springs, and looks like this in cross-section: The lip of an oil seal excludes oil flow in the direction of the shorter edge of the lip. Thus the double lips exclude oil flow from EITHER direction.

The 4X4 design uses an ADAPTER situated between the transmission and transfer case, instead of an "extension housing". The adapter bolts to the transmission and the transfer case bolts to the rear part of the adapter. The transmission has it's own output shaft oil seal, and a short splined shaft...

My first ever plastic tank was found on my '78 Fiesta, bought new. Owned two more after that one, radiators were the only problem encountered, in addition to water pumps. I always suspected that the rigidly-mounted radiators were being flexed by the unitized body parts up front, causing early...

This "seal" being talked about here: I noticed them when I replaced my front hubs: 4X4 4.0SOHC. They are called out as "dust seals", intended to keep dust out of the bearing area, enclosing the gap between the bearing hub and the end of the CV Joint cup. New hubs did not have the seals. Judging...

My 2004 with 4.0 SOHC was bought from the original owner in 2010. It now has 175,000 miles on it, original radiator, never add a drop of coolant. Temp. gauge holds rock steady. What is it with all these radiator problems, anyway?

Have you checked hydraulic pressures? Should be nice and steady, if jumping around, pressure control solenoids may be intermittently causing trouble.

As I understand things, "permanent codes" were implemented by law in 2009. Such codes remain visible until such time as the PCM verifies repairs were made. Mystery remains.

Yeah, like anything burning oil that's not supposed to. We're thinking of the unobtrusive small crack in a diaphragm which allows only small amounts of fluid leakage.

This is true in 4X4 AUTO, if so equipped. If 2WD, 4X4 HIGH, and 4X4 LOW equipped, the front wheels obviously turn in 2WD or 4X4 AUTO, transmitting no driving force of their own. If 4X4 AUTO, wheel speed difference between rear and front wheels engages electronic clutch transmitting power to...

You are right, of course! Back in my early days, economics forced me to repair and improvise: no money. One of those habits hard to break!

Your patterns look good! Main thing to "feel" is how the mesh turns when you grasp the pinion to cause drag necessary while you turn the assembly by grasping the ring gear. The feel should be smooth with no "grating" or roughness feel as the gears mesh together. To do this, I usually wrap a rag...

If the engine vacuum is gobbling brake fluid via the brake booster, the inside of the hose removed from it will be wet with fluid. It SHOULD be dry.

The only way a "bad battery" can cause a shutdown is if it is internally short-circuited (rare, but possible) causing the alternator to be overloaded. This would not be a repeat thing, nor intermittent, but likely would happen once, after which the battery could not start the engine, nor could...

A resourceful "fix" would be to "build up" a new surface on the carrier, turn it to correct dimension. Having machines to do stuff like that provides challenges beyond buying replacement parts. One of the more difficult jobs I did of this nature was to mate a Borg-Warner H.D. O/D output shaft...

Those appear to be pipe thread plugs. If they represent "low points", leakage elsewhere (higher up) will accumulate and drip from them; they may NOT be the source of the leakage.

The brake booster utilizes vacuum. Vacuum will suck in fluid accumulating and burn it up in the engine. No visible leaks.......no wonder!

Could a left-hand bearing be substituted? :crazy:

At one time, I loved pissing matches. Now in my old age, I see the waste of time......and let the miscreants go on raving amongst themselves.

I must reluctantly agree with you, BUT: the latest technology gives up far too much control over the vehicle to the PCM to suit me. Much of it was aimed, to be sure, at avoiding very costly occurrences of warranty failure. For example, an overheat may shut down the engine, or low oil pressure...