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I just added here and there. Your new compressor might have come already filled with oil. If it did, does the insert with the compressor say how much? Too much oil isn't a bad thing, except that means there's less room for the freon (Or whatever you are using) making the A/C less effective.

You shouldn't need forescan anymore. You can use livelink and select the pids you want to monitor. Weird stuff like this happens when we modify. I played around with forescan, and the thinks it would come in handy for are trans codes and key chip programming. Don't be concerned with anything...

I just saw this thread. Awesome! Tims right, that start-up surge drives me crazy. I've been playing around with start-up fuel and start-up air all winter with limited success. These motors sure drink a lot of gas when cold, that I do know.

This is easily one of my favorite threads. A+++ on innovation and fabrication.

oh, and if your going to get Don Lasota to do the tuning, email him first with what you have going on, and where you want to go. He will tell you what he wants. Doing this will give you the best possible end result.

Here's a screen shot from the SCT pro Racer package ford racing injector directory. I'd say your best to look for one of these. Honestly, even if you found a good deal on LU-60's they could easily be tuned. The best favour you could do your tuner (And your wallet) would be to get an injector...

Lol, yeah there seems to be a ms update that takes PC's a good hour or more to install with new info that the computer is even busy I had a bunch of computers do this to me at work. It ended up being about 3 hours of my life I spent trying to figure out what was going on. I was more than a...

Anything you can do to the motor to make it flow more air will help. A motor is just a big air pump. More air thru the motor means more power. As mentioned, its tough to keep the power down low in the low rpm ranges though. Best thing you could do is to move to the biggest exhaust possible...

I hear ya. I'm going to have to pull my motor again. I'm going to just live with the stink of oil hitting the exhaust pipe thru the winter. As long as I'm moving, I don't get the oil smell. Talking about getting old, its going to be a long winter.

Good news- you have spare time. Bad news- you have spare time. Who knows, maybe the bad news is good news also. No shortage of crazy out there. Some piece and quiet working on a vehicle can be a great thing.

Welcome to the boosted club! Looks like you did an awesome job!!

I think this is the one I'll be going with on my next build. I really like having vacuum also.

I was surprised to get to the bottom of the post and the Jockey wheel wasn't painted. lol. New welding project? Sounds big and ominous.

I'll answer this (At least in part). 1. Automatic WOT fueling adjustment. I love this feature. This means, set your fueling tables and forget it (No MAF transfer adjustments anymore). This does not mean spark tables are automatically adjusted, but maybe with a knock sensor they are now? 2...

I'd say if you already have them, run them. if you run out of injector, change em. Your doing your own tuning anyway, so no big deal. If you don't have them yet, look in the 42 to 47 range. You can probably find these pretty cheep. Yes, fuel pressure is higher at 60psi, and that will help you.

Once you get in to aftermarket pcm's, don't forget your 4r70w trans needs to be controlled also.

They are not really required unless your spinning high rpm. Honestly, I don't really need them. What happened was I had Ford racing lifters (Non link bar style) and one broke at the cam. The wheel caught in the lifter bore against the cam and seized the motor. Made a big mess (cam, timing...

nope, no other pieces to the puzzle. Those two pieces will make you 28oz ready. As long as you get confirmation the motor is 28oz your good. Now, the bad news....... The absolute right thing to do is pull the crank out of the motor with a piston and rod. Then take the flex plate, damper...

ok, so at 28oz imbalance just go with damperdudes for the front FO3024EX28OZ , and prw for the flex plate. 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth The damperdudes unit worked well for me in the past.

The motor you are looking at could be zero balanced, or externally balanced at 28oz.

At least the project isnt dead! Any movement is good movement. The snow was crazy.

Good thing your a patient man. This issue is crazy.

With your combo at 5lbs boost your fine. You don't need roller rockers or anything like that as you know. Your not planning to rev the crap out of the motor, high boost, or a big cam. Your springs will be fine. You already know your right on track. Keep going! I want to see this thing make...

I had pedestal mount rockers (1.6) under my factory valve covers years ago when I had the ported gt40p's. You can't be gentle with the hammer massaging the corners of the valve covers though. You can make them look really good after adding some clearance to them. Just be prepared to spend...

Replacing the springs on the heads?

Like you, I'm betting your motors fine. If it suddenly dropped like that you'd most likely be noticing other symptoms.

What injectors went in? How many of the original O-rings were blown out? Were all sure hoping this fixes the issue.

When you change your filter, cut the can off with a pair of tin snips to see what's on the filter media. BE CAREFUL, in the past it was typically a blood letting experience for me. I'm sure you will be way better at it than I was though.

Shoot. I'm pretty excited to see some boost happening here. Even with the delay, I'm sure there's things you can be doing.

I lost over an hour of my life looking for the part number of the collector bolts. :( Sorry, can't help. Hopefully someone else see's this and can find it.

Yea, just like I enjoy watching the fabrication that you do. Except, you would be able to learn the tuning side far easier than I could learn the fabrication stuff you and others do. That stuff takes a life time of learning. Your right though, the tuning was done differently with carbs and...

So, I was never actually able to get rid of that random misfire code p0300. Fuel trims looked the same on both banks, and tried everything I could think of except for inviting a priest over for an exorcism. I am quite certain its the cam causing the issue. The fix? I told the pcm to avoid...

Congratulations on Kyle Tim. None of us here are very happy that you haven't dedicated your summer to the supercharger project though. We really want to see this happen, and don't want to hear about how Evil is being Evil. We really, really don't want to hear that you are having issues with...

Oh man.....I wish I had never screwed with my motor. Maybe things will work out better for you though. I finally have a motor that is staying together. It's been years, countless pulls, and endless $. Don't do it! :)

I've never heard of that stuff. Awesome!

Its all going to be ok, just going to take lots of clean up if it comes apart again. That gooey stuff will take some stinky chemical to get cleaned off. Its stuck on there good now. lol. The repair just didn't look very pretty till I covered it with the interior panel. I'd love to see the...

I used the same stuff that you use for construction vapour barrier. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/lepage-pl-acousti-seal-vapour-barrier-sound-reduction-adhesive-825ml/1000409510 This stuff stays soft, and is kind of a tar substance. Don't use it. What a mess. I had black gooey strings...

I have no clue. Definitely to relieve high pressure in the cabin. I really don't think I need to seal those, as the flaps do a pretty good job of sealing so when the cabin is in a negative pressure situation those flaps would be closed. I'm sealing them anyway, if for no other reason than...