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Yes. Which is why I qualified it with second gens needling it, and you possibly confusing your info. LOTS of talk about 4wd-2wd You are aware you jumped in on a thread about swapping 2wd into a 1st gen, right? As for your computer, (your 4wd computer will throw a fit) your best bet would be...

I think you’re confusing your info. You CANNOT run a Second Gen without the CV Shafts. This is an absolute fact. limited slip differentials last a lot more than 20k. I’ve got one with 160k and one with 220k. Both will spin the rear wheels on gravel, dirt or snow.

I’ve used Mobile 1 at 25k intervals on a motor that had over 200k on it. Zero smoke, burned about a quart in the change time, quiet valves, and zero leaks. I’m sold.

Only way to learn is to jump in, and sometimes get in over your head. When I got my first ATV my grandfather bought me a factory manual and told me he’d buy any parts as long as I completed the repairs myself. Rebuilt my first motor at 12. By the time I was 16 I was rebuilding at least a...

These are mostly because people WAY over oil them.

Unfortunately, he posted once and didn’t even see the first message.

Probably a manufacture designation so they know who supplied them.

Why do you think the Walmart oil ruined the pump? Don’t get me wrong, I use Mobile1 myself. ;) just curious.

Was it the same stud?

Do you even know what a troll is? Obviously you don’t. I mean, you haven’t been right all this time, why try something new and start now? Judging by the likes on my comments it’s YOU that has the unpopular opinion. I guarantee I’ve helped FAR more people here than you ever have.

Why does the headlight switch matter?

I’m betting most dealerships are well aware they are selling them with shorted parts. Never believe a dealer when they say they’ve never heard of an issue. Dealers do two things in equal parts. They sell cars, and they lie.

Motor size? Happen all at once? Any lights on the dash?

Not me. THIS is the hill you are going to die on over on Ford? This is nothing compared to things they’ve dropped the ball on in the past. And, mass multi-market manufacturing is nothing like construction.

It’s possible your door switch just needs lubed. I’m assuming it also doesn’t ding the warning if you open the drivers door with the key in?

Doors and an ice maker are a far cry from trim underneath the car, and cheesy piece of plastic under the hood. Do you have any idea how manufacturing works? You can’t have backup suppliers for everything. Plastic molds are extremely expensive. Having contingency plans for the TENS OF...

Wrong thread perhaps?

What I said was perfectly logical, and sensible. Had you actually quoted who you were referring to, I would have known and not bothered to comment.

It’s not a build issue. They didn’t forget them. It’s a parts supply issue. Their only option to deliver cars, fully complete, would be to sit on them. They’d remove these parts from the build, and production if this was their option.

The issue is many didn’t realize stuff was missing, and never would have, without people posting here.

A class auction lawsuit would never happen. There’s not enough money for someone to care about it. There’s not enough “damages” for a lawyer to bother with. Get on your dealer and they’ll get them for you WHEN they become available. If that doesn’t work, get ahold of a regional manager...

I think it’s a language issue. I assume they means Ford Dealership.

What’s their alternative? Don’t release the cars at all? Take a huge financial bath over inconsequential parts? Class action lawsuit? Yeah,good luck with that one.

I could easily check it. Filters never come loose, and they just spin on by hand.

There’s very little info on this motor floating around. Most people that buy them don’t do any modifications, they just run the wheels off them.

They use air pressure.

Is your starter drive possibly not retracting after starting?

I’m sure someone will have better ideas. It should start smooth like every other healthy engine though. I did end up cutting several heat shields of my previous Mounty.

going to have to go with the softest of maybes.

Yeah, it’s definitely not normal.

I can’t listen to anything except your transfer case screaming its death cry. Drag that poor thing out into the field and shoot it already.

Great addition.

You’ll need to pull it apart and remove the rust and coat it in something, especially if it’s a winter beater. After that, you’ll want to wash the rear brakes a few times a year, and especially well after winter is over. Also, next time the brakes are smoking hot, you might want to park...

Shouldn’t be too much worse than the other side. After this much time no one can tell you how difficult it will be. Worst cast cut the collector from the manifold and drill it out. I’ve always been able to persuade them out. If you have time soak everything in penetrating oil.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/susa-thermostatic-oil-sandwich-plate-adaptor-with-m22-ports-19-spt76 Sweet unit though.

There’s a plate that sandwiches under the oil filter for easy hook up. These run about $50. I think it’s priced itself out of my market. For that kind of money I’ll buy a 25 year old amplifier that serves zero practical purpose.

Apparently I was pricing just a piece of the kit. Here’s a similar unit to what I was looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Canton-Racing-24-046-Accusump-Accumulator/dp/B002R61UYU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=DL8WWKRBH1U1&dchild=1&keywords=oil+accumulator&qid=1586133615&sprefix=Oil+accu%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-4

Total cost? I can get into a midsized accumulator for under the $150 mark and install in under an hour.

Looks good, but I agree it looks like Rub City.