Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes! | Page 16 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

38k on our 16 Explorer Sport and the right rear inner pad is at the rivets and destroyed the rotor. Does any extended warranty cover this? I know we have an 8 year warranty but only 60k miles.

What pads and rotors are everyone using?
There will be no warranty coverage. As said above, they are considered a 'wear item'. If you have the Ford ESP, check the fine print as to what is not covered.

Peter
 



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I picked up Motorcraft rotors and Raybestos EHT brake pads when I did mine. My originals lasted ~70k miles.
 






I had parked my 18 XLT AWD for awhile because I didn't need to drive much due to the COVID19 stay-at-home order. The brakes had developed some surface rust. I had to go out for essentials and after about 10 miles of driving I could smell metal burning. The amount of heating coming from the right rear suggested the brake was dragging. I had not used the parking brake. Is this a common problem? After that occurrence, I have not encountered the smell.
 






Dragging rear brakes are common on this platform. My pads were completely gone and seized in the anchor bracket at about 30,000 miles. Replaced the rotors, added the newer coated brackets, and used anti-seize on the contact points of the new pads and all is well. Hard to believe my gas mileage suffered so bad up until that point, but it's noticeably better now.
 






Seems right rear brakes are commonly binding. I'm guessing it has to do with the parking brake adjustment as well as corrosion. Another reason for me to turn this Explorer in.
 






I know what the problem is. Ford used steel/cast-iron calipers/brackets on the rear of the Explorer and aluminum on the fronts. They just rust really quickly in the rust belt. My girlfriend's 2015 Malibu has 100k+ on the original brakes and she has all aluminum calipers/brackets no sign of any rust (just white Alum oxide).
 






This is happening on my 2018 XLT N/A 3.5 AWD with 11k miles. I drive it only in the winter time, and now the rear calipers and anchor plates are completely rusted. The fronts are still fine. It got so hot that I could smell burning metal through my vents and it enveloped my garage with that smell. That right rear brake got super super shot it turned the rotor hat gray/white. I jammed down and released the parking brake a few times and it seems to be Ok for now.

I looked at my girlfriend's 2015 Chevy Malibu LTZ w/ 2.0 LTG GTDI and her original brakes have 100k miles and completely rust free. Her rear calipers and plates are aluminum. The fronts are coated steel/iron but rust free as well (magnet sticks to them). Her brakes look in much better shape than mine and my Explorer is basically a new car.
 






This is happening on my 2018 XLT N/A 3.5 AWD with 11k miles. I drive it only in the winter time, and now the rear calipers and anchor plates are completely rusted. The fronts are still fine. It got so hot that I could smell burning metal through my vents and it enveloped my garage with that smell. That right rear brake got super super shot it turned the rotor hat gray/white. I jammed down and released the parking brake a few times and it seems to be Ok for now.

I looked at my girlfriend's 2015 Chevy Malibu LTZ w/ 2.0 LTG GTDI and her original brakes have 100k miles and completely rust free. Her rear calipers and plates are aluminum. The fronts are coated steel/iron but rust free as well (magnet sticks to them). Her brakes look in much better shape than mine and my Explorer is basically a new car.
You’ll need to pull it apart and remove the rust and coat it in something, especially if it’s a winter beater. After that, you’ll want to wash the rear brakes a few times a year, and especially well after winter is over.

Also, next time the brakes are smoking hot, you might want to park outside.
 






Just checked my rear brakes, both saids are at about 40-50% and no rust to speak of, but the rear rotors are a bit warped and heavily pitted. We are @ 31k miles.

This Ford is giving me flash backs of my previous Dodge Journey and Chrysler Town n Country rear brakes. Nearly the same setup...
 






You’ll need to pull it apart and remove the rust and coat it in something, especially if it’s a winter beater. After that, you’ll want to wash the rear brakes a few times a year, and especially well after winter is over.

Also, next time the brakes are smoking hot, you might want to park outside.

Those are great tips! Coupled with the horrible trans shifting, the rusting hood, and the potential for the internal water pump to give out, my plan is to just turn it in when the lease is up. Horrible platform and build quality!
 






Just checked my rear brakes, both saids are at about 40-50% and no rust to speak of, but the rear rotors are a bit warped and heavily pitted. We are @ 31k miles.

This Ford is giving me flash backs of my previous Dodge Journey and Chrysler Town n Country rear brakes. Nearly the same setup...

Your 2017 has the "HD" rear brakes. Ford cheaped out in 2018 and 2019, by going to standard duty rear brakes on everything except Limited and above. So I have solid rear rotors and two totally rusted out calipers/anchor plates. I'm not sure what material is used on the HD rear calipers but hopefully it isn't the same as the standard duty rears. I also felt from day 1 that my 2018 XLT didn't stop very well, like the brakes were undersized for the weight of the vehicle.
 






Your 2017 has the "HD" rear brakes. Ford cheaped out in 2018 and 2019, by going to standard duty rear brakes on everything except Limited and above. So I have solid rear rotors and two totally rusted out calipers/anchor plates. I'm not sure what material is used on the HD rear calipers but hopefully it isn't the same as the standard duty rears. I also felt from day 1 that my 2018 XLT didn't stop very well, like the brakes were undersized for the weight of the vehicle.

They do seem rather big, though I have not really looked at other Explorers, but I do have the vented rotors which I was very surprised about, I figured it was because we got the tow package.

That is sad they cheaped out on the 18's...seems it would be cheaper to make them all the same, rather than offer two different setups.

On my Journey, I bought some Reybestos Rotors and Pads and they lasted way longer with no warping, I plan to do the same with the Explorer since it has the same dumb brake setup.
 






They do seem rather big, though I have not really looked at other Explorers, but I do have the vented rotors which I was very surprised about, I figured it was because we got the tow package.

That is sad they cheaped out on the 18's...seems it would be cheaper to make them all the same, rather than offer two different setups.

On my Journey, I bought some Reybestos Rotors and Pads and they lasted way longer with no warping, I plan to do the same with the Explorer since it has the same dumb brake setup.

Yes it was unfortunate! I only learned about this after the fact and sure enough the 2018 order guides said everything went to SD rear brakes while Limited/Sport/Platinum got the HD. My rears are solid rotors, not sure what the exact differences in pads and calipers were. I have the XLT with Tow package and AWD (n/a 3.5 V6). It's funny how the tow package doesn't include an additional transmission oil cooler or PTU cooler but adds an engine oil cooler. My Fusion Sport has the additional trans oil cooler and PTU cooler, but does not have an engine oil cooler.

Meanwhile GM has pretty much outfitted all of their GTDI engines with engine oil coolers, including my tiny little Cobalt SS Turbo.
 






I need to do brakes all the way around on my 16 Explorer 4wd base with tow package. Are they HD brakes or not? Rear rotors are solid. Thankyou.
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
I believe the 2016 Base and XLT have the standard brakes.

Peter
 












The pre-2018 XLT should have HD rear brakes not sure about base.
You are right about the XLT. The Order Guide states HD front and rear brake calipers. I was thinking about your other post about brakes and forgot you had a 2018.

Peter
 






So I did some research on this beforehand, and hosed the heck out of the rear brakes with WD40. I have to park my Explorer outside and with the quarantine I'm not driving it as much. I think this compounds the rust issue due to the sheer amount of moisture from outside, so what I've been doing is hosing the rotor surfaces, pads, and sliding points with WD40. It keeps it corrosion-free for at least a week, and when I've driven the car, I have not detected any abnormalities in stopping power. The rear brakes now smell like wet rust instead of burning metal after a drive. They both feel warm, but the right rear is no longer blazing hot. The water displacement properties of WD40 seem to be working, and everyone that has used this method said the braking temps get hot enough to just burn off any oil residue. Worst case scenario is that it will need new rear brakes anyhow.
 






Highly doubtful that your rotors are burning off the WD40. All you’ve done is all cutting fluid to the worlds dullest cutting tool.

Clean, polish, and treat the brake parts that contact each other.
 



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Highly doubtful that your rotors are burning off the WD40. All you’ve done is all cutting fluid to the worlds dullest cutting tool.

Clean, polish, and treat the brake parts that contact each other.
I watched several videos from YouTubers with large numbers of views that said it was totally fine to spray brake pads down with wd40. It also stops them from squealing.

You should embrace the "influencers"...
 






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