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Yeah, it sounds good. Is that even what it really is? You get what you pay for. The first thing you need to do is figure out what the diameter of the bolt is. That way you don’t have to buy a whole kit. Side loading is putting force in the extractor from the side, like in sheer. You need...

I would skip the harbor freight kit. If you break an extractor off in the bolt it’s game over. Make sure not to side load the extractors, they are brittle.

Isn’t there a bolt in option that just replaces the actuator and makes it a live axle, like it should be anyways?

Extremely doubtful you’ll be able to center punch it, and drill it straight enough that you’ll just make the bolt not there. A reverse bit would be my first option, followed by a small extractor if that didn’t work.

No car is infallible. PLENTY of other cars have wheel bearing failures. Used to have to replace the wheel bearing yearly on my moms rolling trash can (Trailblazer).

Well, the bad news is the first thing you’ll need to get that bolt out is penetrating oil…… Is this not one of the bolts you said was an M6? If so it’s a 6mm diameter.

You bought a car for someone going senile……. Sounds like the problems started even before the purchase. I’d just trade it in. You clearly have disdain for the vehicle, and it’s certain to cost you more and more money, as they tend to do.

Amazing work, as always

I’m also definitely guilty of using the crossmember dozens of times.

Also, if you’re gonna turn the wheels, start the engine first, or you’ll get air in your power steering system.

Don’t use both. Ever. It’s NOT made for it. Those were intended for the factory Jack, and replacing a flat tire. Use jackstands behind the front wheels on the frame. You’d never catch me using two factory jacks and nothing else to hold up a car, especially on those janky control arm hooks.

Pretty sure it’s a thing, Sonny Boy. That doesn’t make it beneficial, though.

That’s a really solid idea that doesn’t cutting anything up. I dig it.

Yeah, you could re-pin and replace the bushings pretty easily.

He pulled a car trailer and magically got MORE mpg than normal. Seems like the truth……

Your capacity should be 3500 pounds. I assume you have the 3.55’s.

I was lucky, my brother gave me his Skylark. He even gave me the head gasket it needed. No help though, the deal from my dad was I could have the car if I fixed it myself.

Shame. Those are great sounding receivers and the 9886 had Bluetooth. Made in the USA quality audio.

Vintage Alpine you say….. It’s not a CDA-9886 is it?

Zero percent chance I’d pay a single cent.

It’s just a phrase used colloquially by everyone to mean for no obvious or apparent reason. Literally nothing, ever, has happened for no reason.

Either a good portion of the dash has to come out, or you’re stuck cutting it. There’s no second easy solution.

There’s probably also a hundred other things that don’t apply to the Explorer.

Definitely no plow option.

My guess is these are differentiating 2wd vs 4wd. I know the 4wd radiators were thicker for some years.

Looks pretty good in there. As for improving sound quality, door pods or decent deadening can go a long way. I’d also consider a mid-bass or regular woofer so you’re no relying on just the sub to bridge the gap to the door speakers, plus the door speakers sound better if you keep the lowest...

Touching the brake pedal doesn’t stop it?

Also, damn, it’s been forever since I’ve seen Woot. Do they still do the old style Woot Offs?

They were some of them originators in high end car audio as well. Like allof the old school audio brands, they’ve been bought out just for the names.

If she’s taken you everywhere else, let her take you to Alaska. It’s a Mountaineer, she’ll bring you home. You’re obviously well traveled. Prepare the best you can, and send it.

If it’s only the manifold you’re worried about, I’d say run it. I don’t think it’s going to have a catastrophic failure, it’ll just get louder and might not get any worse than it is. I had a cracked manifold on my last Mounty for years, and probably 50k. It never really changed, I had to...

I believe you’re also going to have issues with the injectors. The 99 should be a return less fuel line setup, and the pressures are different between the two.

Still no updates from your one-of-a-kind specially equipped transmission vehicle. How come? That cougar should weigh about 200 pounds by now, and that Explorer should have another 100k on it.

You’re not going to find a good bracket. They’re all bent by now. The only other things it could be is the spring is bad, the arm has been bent by someone trying to fix this previously, or the hinge is bound up. Even when set up correctly they weren’t great. I only used mine to knock the...

My car definitely isn’t uploading any data. If this concerns you throw your phone and computer away and get a legacy or budget commuter car.

If it always starts cold fine and is intermittent after the first start of the day I’d suspect the coolant temp sensor.

You’ll know if you drop the pan. The broken band strut will be in there.

When the keys are in (at least in the 2nd gens) and a door is opened it’ll sound the chime. The door you are having a problem with won’t chime when you open it, because it thinks it was already opened. That’s the wiring/switch that needs adjusted.