Are the circular metal parts that hold the grommets transferable to new bolts or no?

[San Hill]

San Hill - I suggested to get a couple of similar length bolts (from hex head to end of thread) because 1 only stud can be easily bypassed. The stud sleeve only holds the plug wiring, correct? And please post the bolt thread specs so others will know.

We have all been there with broken bolts. You can either have a professional remove it (very expensive) or do it yourself. If the latter, roll-up your sleeves.

Someone else may have a better method and will likely chime in. The following is how I would would try to remove it.

Now on to the broken bolt. Fill all the holes/spaces in the heads with rags. Soak the bolt hole with penetrating oil. Do this for a day or 2. At some point, you will need to completely cover all exposed parts of the valve train, with only the bolt hole exposed. A shop vac and or small magnets may be needed to capture cuttings. Possible a 3rd hand.

You will need the following tools. A sharp centre punch and hammer, small drill bits (1/16, 1/8, 3/16, buy several of each) or similar size, a 1/4 or 3/8 reversing drill. Preferably 2 speed. You will need to drill at a very low speed. And left hand drill bits could be very helpful.
You will also need small extractors and a tap of the thread size. You will need to clean/repair the threads.

Once exposed area's are completely covered, try to spot punch the centre on the bolt. This is critical, will be difficult because of the uneven shear of the bolt. Start with the smallest bit, drill with very light pressure and at a very low speed. Weight of the drill only with a sharp bit and cutting fluid should start the cutting. Drill about 3/8 " deep. Then the next larger bit and alittle deeper, then the next size drill bit and deeper yet.
It the drill bit flexes or wobbles, your are applying too much pressure, If it charters, either you apply more cutting fluid or change to a new bit.
If the drill bit breaks, your fudged. Use very light pressure on the drill.

What you are trying to do, is reduce the broken bolt to a shell. At this point it will easily come out.

Sounds like ... sound advice to me. Can you recommend any specific centre punch tool and post a link? I would like one that doesn't have a wooden handle on the end. Preferably something like a railroad spike but obviously on a much smaller scale. So that I could use a steel head hammer on it without breaking it. That would be a good tool I think.

You're literally suggesting that I simply drill the old fragmented bolt out until it's gone. So, I wouldn't really need any extractor type set since I wouldnt be looking to unscrew the bolt fragment itself. I like the idea.

Not really extracting it out, more like disintegrating it out.

 

[Turdle]

Use a reverse twist bit. Chances are it will grab that screw and pull it out. It's not rust seized. You broke it off overtorqing. It'll come right out with a reverse twist.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Extremely doubtful you’ll be able to center punch it, and drill it straight enough that you’ll just make the bolt not there. A reverse bit would be my first option, followed by a small extractor if that didn’t work.

 

[San Hill]

Use a reverse twist bit. Chances are it will grab that screw and pull it out. It's not rust seized. You broke it off overtorqing. It'll come right out with a reverse twist.

This is my theory yes, for the one bolt I broke, repeat, the one bolt I broke trying to torque it back in. However, It wasn't until I had to remove the "other 5" bolt/screws/whatever these are that I even discovered a second bolt had broken. And that second discovered broken bolt was the front left shorter bolt of the set of all 6 that has no wiring stud. So, it could be simply all the bolts are so old they are all breaking with movement. But in the end, it doesn't matter I guess.

Thank You again for the good advice. I'll proceed with the premise that I broke both bolts by over torquing, take your advice about trying the reverse twist bit and see what happens. So much going on in life right now, it's silly so time is limited.
I'll see what I can figure out.

What do you think of this set at Habor Freight:

Harbor Freight Extractor Set

 

[Mbrooks420]

I would skip the harbor freight kit. If you break an extractor off in the bolt it’s game over. Make sure not to side load the extractors, they are brittle.

 

[San Hill]

I would skip the harbor freight kit. If you break an extractor off in the bolt it’s game over. Make sure not to side load the extractors, they are brittle.

I'm not sure what you're saying. What do you recommend I purchase and start with? I don't even know what side loading extractors means.

 

[94Eddie]

I'm not sure what you're saying. What do you recommend I purchase and start with? I don't even know what side loading extractors means.

I strongly recommend getting industrial grade drill bits, and extractors, from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. They will allow for removing of material more efficiently. This means there is less of a chance of breaking off a drill bit from having to push too hard and side loading it. Or breaking off an extractor. As @Mbrooks420 stated, if you break off a drill bit in the bolt, you are going to wish you had used the best drill bit possible. Harbor Freight is good for non-critical tools but I wouldn't use them for a job like this where you only get one opportunity to do it right. One other thing, don't spin the drill bit to fast as this will overheat it and dull it quickly. Slow and steady wins the race.

 

[San Hill]

I strongly recommend getting industrial grade drill bits, and extractors, from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. They will allow for removing of material more efficiently. This means there is less of a chance of breaking off a drill bit from having to push too hard and side loading it. Or breaking off an extractor. As @Mbrooks420 stated, if you beak off a drill bit in the bolt, you are going to wish you had used the best drill bit possible. Harbor Freight is good for non-critical tools but I wouldn't use them for a job like this where you only get one opportunity to do it right. One other thing, don't spin the drill bit to fast as this will overheat it and dull it quickly. Slow and steady wins the race.

So, can you possibly post a link to what you consider is a good industrial grade of drill bits. Isn't that determined by the material type used for the bits, in other words, carbon steel? The 'Warrior' set at Harbor Freight says it is made of 'fortified high carbon steel'. So, that sounds pretty good.

 

[94Eddie]

So, can you possibly post a link to what you consider is a good industrial grade of drill bits. Isn't that determined by the material type used for the bits, in other words, carbon steel?

I have used cobalt drill bits with good success. Carbide bits are better but are quite expensive and harder to find. Home Depot sells cobalt bits but they can be hard to find on their racks. They also sell good extractor sets. Ask an assistant to for help if you can't find them. Make sure you do your best to punch your guide divot as near the center as possible. This will go a long way in keeping the bit from chewing into the threads. Also, I find that starting with a smaller bit and then transitioning to a larger bit keeps things centered better. Just make sure to not get too aggressive with the smaller bit because it can break off easier. Lastly, have an abundance of patience while doing this.

 

[Mbrooks420]

So, can you possibly post a link to what you consider is a good industrial grade of drill bits. Isn't that determined by the material type used for the bits, in other words, carbon steel? The 'Warrior' set at Harbor Freight says it is made of 'fortified high carbon steel'. So, that sounds pretty good.

Yeah, it sounds good. Is that even what it really is? You get what you pay for. The first thing you need to do is figure out what the diameter of the bolt is. That way you don’t have to buy a whole kit.

Side loading is putting force in the extractor from the side, like in sheer. You need straight rotational force only. This makes the hole being straight up and down critical.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Hell, if it’ll move it along easier I’ll send a left handed bit for free.

 

[San Hill]

I have to head out to work shortly and I haven't read enough of your thread to see if these are/were available from Ford parts. I assume that the 2nd bolt is as easy to get to as the top left one. I suppose it is possible that before all is said and done that you may have to HELICOIL the two bolt holes.
@Bill MacLeod It's not really San Hill's fault that his situation started with galvanic corrosion. It's a little too late to use anti sieze compound, however it could be used going back together.

Hell, if it’ll move it along easier I’ll send a left handed bit for free.

I'd really appreciate it if you could just bring your tools and remove this bolt for me. What's the 2nd commandment in the Bible. Love your neighbor as yourself? Yeah, that's it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'd really appreciate it if you could just bring your tools and remove this bolt for me. What's the 2nd commandment in the Bible. Love your neighbor as yourself? Yeah, that's it.

If we lived close, I’d give it a shot. There’s few feelings as victorious as removing a broken bolt.

 

[San Hill]

This looks like a good extractor. It's called Century Tool & Drill screw extractor flute #1 so I think it's the smallest I could possibly get anyway. I'd have to start with this one wouldn't I?

I think they are numbered from flute #1 being the smallest to flute #6 being the largest.

Flute #1

 

[Mbrooks420]

This looks like a good extractor. It's called Century Tool & Drill screw extractor flute #1 so I think it's the smallest I could possibly get anyway. I'd have to start with this one wouldn't I?

I think they are numbered from flute #1 being the smallest to flute #6 being the largest.

Flute #1

Max size for that is 5/32”, which is a hair under 4mm.

The first step is finding the size of your bolts.

 

[San Hill]

Max size for that is 5/32”, which is a hair under 4mm.

The first step is finding the size of your bolts.

I hope you're wrong about me needing something smaller than 4mm. Because this kit says the smallest bit works on 4-6mm bolts. I assumed that everybody on this forum would have an idea of the size of the bolts since they are loosened by way of an 8mm socket or wrench (although wrench would be mostly worthless considering the angles you have to get at these).

I bought this unbranded Craftsman kit off Amazon for less than $10.00. I'm hoping the smallest one works. You honestly can't even buy smaller screw extractor bits than in this kit, can you?

Just got this kit and opened it up today, not sure there's a smaller bit that won't disintegrate upon touching

 

[Turdle]

Once again. Reverse twist drill bit.

Extractors are a last resort option. Seriously. Break one off and you'll be removing the cylinder head, going to a machine shop to have that hole saved

 

[San Hill]

Once again. Reverse twist drill bit.

Extractors are a last resort option. Seriously. Break one off and you'll be removing the cylinder head, going to a machine shop to have that hole saved

Thank You for responding to save me from making a big mistake. I didn't know there was a difference. Can you post a link to what I should attempt to purchase please? Thank You.

I promise you all I should have this project done before I'm dead, of course that is dependent upon me living at least another 5 years.

*****EDIT*****: The problem for me is that I get these 2 things conflated. I see sets on EBay that either are dual-purpose products, that is to say, they are bolt/screw extractors and reverse twist drill bits. Or, they are simply being integrated into a single kit since that seems to make a lot of sense. So, that's why I ask for links to exactly what I might buy to get this job finished before I'm rotting 6 feet under the ground.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I hope you're wrong about me needing something smaller than 4mm. Because this kit says the smallest bit works on 4-6mm bolts. I assumed that everybody on this forum would have an idea of the size of the bolts since they are loosened by way of an 8mm socket or wrench (although wrench would be mostly worthless considering the angles you have to get at these).

I bought this unbranded Craftsman kit off Amazon for less than $10.00. I'm hoping the smallest one works. You honestly can't even buy smaller screw extractor bits than in this kit, can you?

Just got this kit and opened it up today, not sure there's a smaller bit that won't disintegrate upon touching

My point was it might not be big enough. It’s been asked several times what size the bolts are. Without that no one can help you with anything exact.

 

[San Hill]

My point was it might not be big enough. It’s been asked several times what size the bolts are. Without that no one can help you with anything exact.

Here is the link to the exact bolt my drivers side valve cover uses in the hole that I broke:

This is my replacement for my broken bolt.

I'm not sure what else I can give you since it's kept a secret on the product page. It is simply described as 40mm, 41mm bolt. No other specs are present.