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With the new springs, with the long add-a-leaf I got about 2" then the Warrior's put me at a net gain of 4". I got 2 1/2 from the new indexing keys. After I put the new keys in, I had to actually back them off, giving a very not harsh ride in the front.

I put Ranger lift springs in the back, and new indexing keys in the T-bars. Mine rides smooth and goes around corners almost as well as my 93 Mustang.

It finally happened, Saturday my water pump decided to stop holding coolant. When I restarted it after refilling the system, I noticed that the accessories weren't turning. I guess that pump totally went south. I had it towed to someone who I've used before, to change it. I'll let y'all know...

And upgrade those door speakers. Mine has Infinity's and sounds much better than stock, and that's with the rest of the factory system still being used.

Have you checked for a vacuum leak. There are parts that won't leak until they heat up, and the issue would continually get worse. Have you made sure there isn't any coolant in the oil and the other way. I had a car once that ran fine until it warmed up, ended up being the head gasket.

Faraday Cage

I put a white faced gauge cluster from a sport in my Mountaineer. It has to be a 2nd Gen, which includes the sports and tracs up until they changed styles.

Amen

Load up your X, hook up the trailer with 1600 lbs of motorcycles, and let’s hit the highway. When we get to the mountains remind about how much you like that sohc anchor. And yes a 60 degree v6 has been in production since the 60’s. But not the SOHC, it was debuted in 1997 and discontinued in...

My 2000 v8 AWD Mountaineer (now a true 4WD) got 21-22 mpg on the highway up until the lift and 33's. The 01 2wd v8 Mountaineer I used to have, routinely got 24 mpg on the highway. Manufacturers are only concerned about their product holding together until the warranty runs out, and the SOHC...

What gears are in the v6 axle? My guess is 4.10. The v8 most likely has 3.73 gears in the front, and the missing rear. It was probably LSD. If the gear ratios aren't the same, it's a NO GO. Also the v6 axle will be missing a couple of attachment points. The springs, HELL NO. The usual swap...

I have 33x10.5x18 on my 00 Mountaineer, with 2.25” of lift in the front and 4 in the back. I had to trim the plastic ever so slightly. Now I occasionally get a rub on the plastic while turning hard left or right and uphill.

Those Wranglers are crap. The can look fine and do exactly what you're describing. I had that issue with 2 sets of them.

Tear it apart first then rebuild. The other way just doesn't work!

So, move the TC over by sliding the trans and engine over? The vibration is a combination of things. The offset is one, but not too much of one if the vehicle is almost level, within the deflection parameters of the u-joints. My lift puts the back of mine a bit higher than the front, so being...

Anything you 'rig up' WILL break again. Replace it and fix it correctly. Post a picture of the front, I may have one on the shelf I'd be willing to part with inexpensively.

I gave up for a while. Mine has been without the front shaft for all of the time since the swap, 2 years ago, except for a few miles to know that neither the F150 nor the double cardan worked for me. No one talks about the 1” offset with the manual case. With my suspension lift and the offset...

You definitely have a lack of vacuum while accelerating. Before replacing anything, check the line going from below the blower to the vacuum ball. They like to chafe and leak.

Then you had your argument corroborated.

going to be my towing/ camping/ offroad rig. You answered you own question. I have 33's with the stock 3.73 gears. The only time it's really happy is on the highway in excess of 75 mph. Towing, forget it. I'm going 4.56 soon, and this IS a daily driver. The required gear to have the same...

If it’s only coming from the defrost vents, it’s vacuum no blend door related. I had that happen on my 00 Mountaineer. It ended up being a pitifully small hole in the hard vacuum line coming from the vacuum ball. I also rebuilt the 4 solenoids in the EATC. I have ac that isn’t far off from...

Check ALL of the vacuum lines. Mine did that, one of the lines was allowing the vacuum to leak down.

Buy the new springs, you’ll be happier in the end. I did and am, Coopers absolutely suck. I went through 3 sets, and no matter how religiously you rotate them, they’ll be rough riders whose howl will convince you a bearing is going out. I put Nitto’s on and none of the wearing issues...

x2

Definitely the front shaft. With it out, the vibration is completely gone. I want to try having a double car dan shaft made for it, one day. But there are other projects and problems ahead of that one.

Picture please I’ve had to replace the handle once and the little plastic clips multiple times. I can’t picture what you’re describing. I’ll try to get a couple of mine and post later.

Take the switch apart and clean it. There are a couple of write ups on how to do it on this site.

I had 2 like that.

Yes, the little slide on kind, just like some older kids toys.

The couple that I did had a force fit kind of nut that was almost impossible to remove.

Try tapping the blower with a hammer or something similar. Tap it, don't beat the crap out of it. Mine got to the point where if I tapped it every time it stopped, it would work for a few more days. It may keep yours going for a couple of days until you get to swap it. Get the one that comes...

I went through 2 sets of Cooper's before swearing off of them. The Nitto Crosstek's on there now are a different story. I definitely recommend the Nitto's. Truck, SUV, and CUV Tire Sizes | Nitto® CROSSTEK®2

Or to put it simply, just below the blower fan and off to the right.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3102411&cc=1356522&jsn=394 You need one of the above.

It's been a problem with fords for at least 30 years. My 86 and 88 T-Birds had the same issue, and so did 2 F150s that I've owned.

If that's the welded stock bolt, it looks like it. Cut it and get a couple sets of MOOG adjustable camber bolts. They WILL go in and out easier, they're not welded together and are lot easier to use.

But the axle is the same axle whether it's in a V6 or V8 equipped Ex/Mountie. There isn't any difference it's the same Ford 8.8 or Dana 35, there was no upgraded or heavy duty axle for the V8's.

Devan, this is a 7 1/2 year old thread and the OP was last on this site on July 15, 2015.

Bulb going out...maybe, it sounds to me like your multi-function switch is on the way out or the connections are broken. The fact that when you push on the stalk cause it to do odd things makes me say that you should open up the trim on the column and look at it. I'll bet it's loose.

The reason mine rolled had nothing to do with tire pressure or wheelbase or any other items of conjecture. It involved pulling a trailer, getting run off the road, and the trailer catching a drainage culvert. My current 2000 Mountaineer is suspension lifted and can be thrown into curves with...