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Also if you don't already have it...this link was HUGE help to me and others I'm sure.. http://www.ratiotek.com/5r55w-complete.pdf

Not sure what you mean exactly by "spin freely"...There are 2 ways that I know of to check the band though. First would be to try to tighten the band. If you cant get 10 ft/lbs or so within 2 turns or so...the band is broken. Second way is to drop your tranny pan (drain first of course) and look...

Broken band? Do you know if you have a broken band? I found pieces in the pan of mine...just sayin that if a band is busted, you have to drop the trans to replace it/them...would be way easier to do the servos then.

It's important to understand that the torque converter is bolted directly to the flywheel, so it is turning if the engine is running. Normally a TC issue would only stall the engine when it is "locked-in". But not knowing what type of damage exists physically to the TC, it's hard to speculate or...

It took a couple of days to get the tranny out, could be done in one though. You definetly need to have a full set of metric wrenches and sockets, and you will need about 3' worth of extensions to remove the bellhouse bolts. There's really no special tooling needed, but you're gonna need...

http://www.tpsautoparts.com/ Paid $139 + $50 core for mine (2002 XLT)

With hindsight being 20/20 of course...You mighta shoulda have changed out your valve body and solenoid block..just to be safe!! Good news being that you don't have to drop for those swaps..and only a couple quarts of fluid to replace..

Yes, just finished the band replacement today...works fine now. If you are considering doing it yourself, just message me and I will get you some info and whatever advice you need that will help..

$850 is a VERY fair price for that work..TC and front pump alone is over 300..nevermind almost a $100 for a new filter and fluid..

There is no way to ensure that the strut will stay in place..just luck if it does. And NO-You CANNOT replace the servo side strut without drop and partial disassembly of the trans. The hardest part is removing the snap rings that keep the servo caps in place..I had my tranny on tha bench and...

I don't know exactly which gear was missing..definetly either 2 or 3. I would have to start off driving fast..revving up to 2500-3000 rpms until i hit about 25-27 mph..then let off the gas and it would catch...had it down pretty good after awhile...:rolleyes: As Brooklyn pointed out..it very...

Same issue I had...When I dropped the pan to investigate I was lucky enough to find the apply strut and a piece of the broken intermediate band sitting in the pan. You quite possibly have a broken band, but the pieces are still inside the trans. I would suggest dropping the pan and sticking a...

You mentioned the fuel filter was "well overdue"...possibly dirty injectors? Just a thought.

It has torque converter written all over it in my mind..not the TC itself but more likely the valves that control the torque converter clutch. The only thing that has me wondering is this "rattling"...If the torque converter itself somehow rattled..you would here it coming from the center of the...

As imp pointed out, it is very difficult to find the root cause of an intermittent problem. It sounds logical to swap relays I guess, but if the relay is operating normally now-why would it not operate in the A/C plug?? I'm def not an electrical guy, but I always assumed that relays and fuses...

You may just need a fluid flush and refill. Also it is improbable that the actual torque converter "went out"..The TC doesn't really do much to become worn, it pretty much just throws oil at vanes. A TC problem would most likely be associated with either the valve body, which controls the TC, or...

Well, we can eliminate the alternator because you still had juice to your radio and you were able to restart. There were no OBD codes so chances are your PCM is OK (no guarantee of course) If it were me, I would start looking at the fuel system. Maybe the pump cut-out for a second...maybe the...

I must say--the "gods of wrenching" were with you on that day. With all due respect to what you accomplished on your repair...I would not advise doing this to anyone!! While the band will certainally apply some pressure to the strut in it's "flexed" position...There is no guarantee that the...

I am in the process of replacing my intermediate band right now. If you want some pointers or need info -hit me up..be glad to help best i can. HOW in the world did metrix not drop the servo side apply struts when he pulled the servos?!?! Is he magic?? :scratch:I am baffled...

I have this, didn't catch that though..Filling through the speed sensors looks optimum. Thanks for catching ..:cool:

All through the ridiculously inconvienient fill tube on the bottom of the pan? I was picturing filling it most of the way through one of the cooling line ports before I jack it back into place...

Start with the easy stuff. Check your fluid level--I KNOW its a pain in the arse without a dipstick...Just unscrew the CENTER plug (inside of the larger plug) on the bottom of the tranny pan, if fluid comes out- your "OK" level-wise... Realistically, Since you've jacked the thing up to check...

I have my trans pulled out and replaced the intermediate band... swapping out TC, solenoid block and valve body since I have the opportunity. My question is- what is the correct way to fill a completely drained trans?? As forementioned it's a 5R55W..

http://www.tpsautoparts.com/ I would reccomend the valve body swap. It's easy enough to do and the posted site sells reman's for 200$ includes 30$ core. I will put some pics up..gotta find em.. http://www.ratiotek.com/5r55w-complete.pdf Very useful pictures of all the guts here...

First off, do ALL your tranny business here--http://www.tpsautoparts.com/ You have either a 5R55W or E and they will tell for sure, a lot of parts are interchangable on the two. http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl066i.htm --This links a great description of how the oil is...