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SO for you guys that have this problem and water gets in here is my fix. Pool noodle. Taped half of one on the top and now no visual air to be seen from inside. Before I was able to put my finger in between the top area. If it repels most of the water, I will be happy.

Well-being 69 YO. I think I am better off not worrying about it. That is more work than I can handle for sure after having 10 Surgeries and 2 of which were on my back. As of now, it opens and shuts better than it has. I use this for a fishing vehicle and pull a small camper or boat. I will...

That is what mine looks like. Same thing.

I am starting to think it isn't going to get any better. I can live with it, and it does look like the rubber is sealing pretty good. The gate is opening and shutting much better than it did when I first bent the door. The only big problem is I have to disconnect the battery or the lights...

That was the first thing I did is look carefully at those hinges. They look fine and there wasn't any new metal showing where they are bolted on at. IN order to get it back to be able to shut I had to use my 4' crowbar and pry back on that area then tighten the bolts back up. WHen I get up on...

OK so I left the gate up and was baking into my car port when I hit the corner of it on a beam. Long story short with a little beating here and there and pushing here and there it does shut but the Door ajar light comes on and it won't go out unless I am driving it. Lights go out, but adjar...

The Ground cable to the battery is rusted and the bolt and nut wont tighten to the post. I got it loose to check something out and now it wont tighten. Thinking of buying one of these and cut the old post connector off...

So I was wondering if there is an aftermarket cable I can connect by just cutting the cable at the the end by the post. Or maybe a new kind of connector. Anyone have to do this before?

Are you planing on puting it in yourself? I might have to get a tranny as well but wont know until the 26th when I have the car taken in and flushed. I only have the check tranny light on the dash but the car drives good. Shifts fine except the OD isn't working. I read it could be dirty or low...

They are both a two wire connector on my truck but only one wire is on the Temp Gauge. It still has a place for 2 wires. I had 2 Temp Gauges in the truck. With 2 wires in the Coolant temp sensor spot it still plugged in.

I will try to keep this short. A year ago I had my temp gauge not working. Took it in and a shop changed it out. It still didn't work,he said it must be in the cluster. Then 6 months ago I thought he might have changed out the wrong sensor so I bought a temp gauge sensor and put it in...

Thanks a bunch for all the info. I know this is a good vehicle if I get that fixed. Might be a good project for the fall/winter months when it is cooler out. So this does use a gasket on the intake? I will get a new one before I start. Most likely I will have the grandson do the work for some...

Hope it isn't an open injector like mine. The intake has to come off. I have the same systems and I know it is injector 4. A bad wire that sometimes gets good connection could be both our problems. Either way intake has to come off.

Has anyone ever done this on a 98 5.0 Ex? I know the intake needs to come off but, how hard is it to do? I am just not sure it is worth doing now with 200k miles. The car ran fine until the injector stuck open or the wire shorted out. Either way the intake has to come off to find which it is...

Does the 5.0 have a Gasket or is it self sealing? I was told it is self sealing. Never heard of this before. Thanks for any info.:help:

Well I talked to a mechanic and he pretty much told me the same as you Mechanically or Electronically. I told him I smelled a lot of fumes when I had my window down. He said it most likely was stuck open. So it would be running rich wouldn't it? It sputters hard until I get above 2k RPM's.

Anyone ever use it with successes? If you did did the vehicle run worst before it got better? I have one #4 stuck open. I put in Lucus Injector cleaner to try it out and it seems like it got worst. When cold it isn't too bad but when warm sputters a lot up to 2k rpm's. I haven't used the whole...

Thanks for the help. I will have that done if I can't figure it out soon. I remember using gas from a certain station and had the same sputtering on low RPMS and it turned out to be the fuel clogging my injectors on a Chevy S-10 I had. I have been using fuel from that same station again(years...

I have changed out the Plug,Wire and the Coil pack. Still have misfire. Any ideas? Friend told me it could be the start of a head gasket going. Said it is just dripping down the cylinder that causes the misfire.

I once had this problem. Turned out that one of the power door lock switches was always in the open position. Never needed to lock my truck where I live but for some reason I tried to lock them once and they popped back up. Other then that I never would have found the problem.

Moisture in the fuel system. Diesel only. Don't worry too much until your Ex sounds like a diesel then you know you have a problem.:salute:

Ha ha ha. Someone did replace it with the wrong one. ME the first time around.

Fixed it! Changed out the Coolant Temp Sensor, the correct one this time and I no longer have a misfire nor hard starting problem. Now on to the Purge Solenoid for the Vacuum canister.

OH I am now sure I have the wrong sensor. here is what happened. I had a shop put in the gauge sensor and it never worked. So I did the mistake in thinking he put in the wrong sensor. I went to the Autoparts store and told them I needed the Gauge sensor. They sold it to me and I had a friend put...

Neither one of my sensors looked like that and I don't have the plastic housing. I did call CarQuest yesterday and they have 2 different Parts numbers for the 2 sensors. After looking at Rock Auto again I see they have 2 different part numbers but both are listed under Sender/sensor. I will be...