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I should give an update. The problem seems to be fixed now. Recap: I did a cleaning of everything. The idle seemed better, but then I had that dead spot where the engine would stall or try to stall when first applying gas. I changed the TPS with a new factory one and it didn't make a difference...

The idle seems to no longer be a problem. It's the stalling when throttle is applied now. But in the past I adjusted the idle screw as a stop gap measure. But it screws with the computer when you do that. The computer tries to compensate for the adjusted idle. When coasting the computer won't...

Reviving old threads again. It's not a daily driver and mostly a winter vehicle so I've been kind of tolerating it and avoiding messing with it. Lately it got worse though. I need to get this fixed once and for all though. So the latest update: The first low idle was just when it was cold...

Thanks, I'll have to look at that hose. I haven't messed with anything more yet. I've been avoiding the cold. Now I have another problem, so I'll have to deal with that first. I've used the idle screw to increase the idle as a stopgap measure in the past. But the computer tries to compensate...

In my experience they are likely blown. The head gaskets on these engines blow pretty easy.

I'll have to look into this stuff. I have an aftermarket throttle body on it. I tried putting the OEM back on there and it didn't make a difference. Plus I've had the aftermarket one on there for a long time. What's the chances of a minor vacuum leak so small that it's difficult to find...

I actually just put a new alternator on it. Wires could be a culprit though. I had an AC wire that went bad. Where is the ground strap located at the back of the engine?

You might referring to how while rolling no matter how slow, they usually won't drop below about 1000rpm until you push in the clutch, instead of dropping to normal idle. Then it drops to normal idle speed after you push in the clutch.

2000 (Manual trans., OHV) I have had a low fluctuating idle for years. Sometimes it will idle normal, about 700-750, but a lot if not most of the time it will idle around 500, or even drop lower, 300-400. Every once in a while low enough that it will stall. I have tried three different IAC...

I need a bench and a place to put one. :D I there a access plate on the top where you can get to that stuff?

I've never done anything like cracking into a transmission. What's involved in getting in there and getting to the bushings? One problem is the condition to work on things is terrible. Don't even really have level ground to work on for dropping the transmission. Or room to set the transmission...

The transmission is based on the getrag transmissions they had in 2011 Mustangs, which are garbage. I hope they really redo them.

This is a definite? I heard that it was, but you never know.

Maybe...if it is indeed available with a manual.

Wow, it's been a while since I've been here. Things have changed. I have forgotten a lot too. I would of had the answer to a lot of these questions in the past. I've started searching around but I thought I would make a post. I still have my 2000 Explorer and drive it. I don't mind putting...

It was a wire to the A/C. I don't know exactly where or how the wire was damaged. The mechanic didn't say. He made a passing remark about mice chewing wires so I'm assuming it may have been mice. He didn't fix it by dealing with the wire in the harness. He bypassed it and ran a wire between...

I'm not referring to P0174 codes in general. In this specific case the code only coincides with the P0600 and P0800 codes. It only appears at the same time, and only when those two codes are set. That is why it seems like in this case, with my car that there is some kind of PCM issue. That I...

I've dealt with lean bank faults before from various reasons. The P0174 only gets set when and at the same time as the P0800 and P0600. And since the PCM controls various engine functions I think it could easily cause that code.

When you say you've been flushing the system do you mean just the radiator or the whole engine block? The engine block itself holds a good bit of coolant and if you're not getting that it may just be turning the whole system brown again in no time. One time when I was changing a water pump and...

Here's the deal! My Explorer is constantly throwing PO600, PO800 codes. PCM communication errors. Which in turns also throws a PO174, lean bank condition because of the communication problems. So possible causes are a bad PCM and bad wiring. I suspect it is bad wiring. I say that because...

To get rid of the slack I'm going to cut the intermediate cable and put a turnbuckle in there. The problem is pulling the slack out of and holding the rear cable against the spring on the end of the cable that attaches to the lever that works the parking brake. Any body have any tricks for this?

Does anything ever work? I got the pedal assembly with the cable installed back finally. And I'm mainly just complaining now, but I put all the new cables on to the back and it is way too long. Not even close. As far as I can tell I got all the right parts. :confused:

Ok, I thought you had posted a picture that shows where to insert the pin/drill bit. I must be losing it now.

Didn't you have a post with a picture right after my post #9?

Okay I'm beginning to see what's going on. The problem I've been having is the pedal itself completely blocks and encapsulates taking the anchor pin out. But there are two ratchet mechanisms on the pedal. I was hardly noticing and ignoring the second one. There's the large main one you can...