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That boot is what covers your slip yoke. It is splines that go together with female splines so that as your suspension moves, the driveshaft can expand or contract. The splines are supposed to have a blue teflon coating, and be greased periodically beyond that. If it's been neglected for 25...

I have never heard of F150 springs fitting an explorer. Even if they do, 2" is about the max you can do without having to figure out something to correct alignment.

The first thing to do is determine if the sound relates to engine speed, or vehicle speed. You can put it in neutral and coast, if the sound stays the same, it is speed related. If it slows or stops, its the engine. The next is to eliminate the front end. I would jack up the front wheels and...

You will be happy with the Felpro perma-torque head gaskets, they are as good as they come. For the intake, most people like the newer 2 piece gasket from either Felpro or Victor Reinz. I've installed the original style one-piece, and never had a problem. The throttle body, and IAC are just...

How did you determine the block was warped? You certainly don't want a 2.3 in there. A used 4.0 would be a good move.

I'm not even going to guess what the junk in there is from, but it looks like you have multiple burned valves (could just be the pictures), and the crack on cylinder 3 certainly isn't helping.

It does take a while for the ECM to learn the parameters. Drive it in a normal manner for a couple days, and see if the idle comes down. I would hope you can get better than 15 MPG. Mine is just about to pass 300,000 miles, has known problems, and still gets 19-20 MPG on the highway. It's closer...

I'm not saying it is, but my 1994 Mazda B4000 is basically a ranger clone, and it has sequential injection and EGR. You may be right, I just don't want you to waste your money.

I'd take another look at that ECM. As you stated, the 93 is a batch fire, but your 94 is a sequential. I'd have to look at the wire diagram to be sure, but yours may not run with that ECM.

I would just like to share my recent experiences with a problem I've heard others have, with little solutions. I would like to begin by saying that after 3 years on a Oreilly's auto parts slave cylinder with no problems, they are the ones to buy. I changed out the slave because the tranny was...

He had the battery tested twice, and tried jump starting. If he jumped the fender solenoid, and hearing a click, the starter cable would have to be awful bad to not at least turn the starter a little. I think this is clearly a problem with the starter/solenoid itself. Also consider this started...

If you jumped the fender solenoid, and the starter solenoid clicked, the wires are fine. It is possible for the starter solenoid contacts to wear and cause this problem. You can take the starter off, take apart the solenoid, and clean or replace the contacts. Most people simply replace the...

Unfortunately, I never found a good solution to this problem. The only aftermarket dipsticks seem to be for the common V8's as ususal. My local junk yards don't have any either, but even if they did, the dipstick tube always rots. The best I think would be to put a wanted add in the...

I ran it to the stock gauge, plugged in the same wire and everything. All you have to do is run a jumper around the resistor on the back of the gauge cluster. I do not have an actual gauge, but checked the gauge position with air pressure. 1/4 was about 25 psi, and just past half way was 60 psi...

Being a 91, I wouldn't be surprised if some had actual pressure gauges. 91's had all kinds of leftover parts., and you never know what you get. Does it seem to be quite a bit higher when cold, and changes with RPM? I converted my switch to an actual sender. Mine runs in about the same spot when...

It's certainly not impossible. There is a way to make the TPS adjustable, you simply mill out the holes a bit. It's not hard to adjust properly. With a volt meter, the voltage with the throttle closed should be .96-.98 VDC. I like to start by warming up the engine, and unplugging the IAC.. If it...

If you were a big diesel guy, maybe. Even with unlimited funds, I would still rather fit a 4.9L inline 6, and that has similar torque. Doesn't really matter for me, I can barely find the time to get my 4.0 back together. I'm confident it will be together this winter, knock on wood...

Based on the crank sensor, it is constantly adjusting timing. It will not, however, increase advance because you are using a higher octane gasoline.

I just want to point out, the timing is not self adjusting on these. It's more or less a set advance. They are so basic, there is not even a knock sensor. I do a lot of short trips, and low rpm crawling, which builds up carbon in the engine. For this reason, mine pings with 87 octane, so I run...

The bronco II does use the same box. I find it easier just to pull the whole thing. There is one bolt on the inside under the dash. I don't remember it being too tough to get to.

Do not hope for the best with the chains. Technically, the engine is not an interference engine, yet all kinds of problems can happen. I spent a week just digging out little plastic bits out of every space in the engine. If you can't pull the engine, you can't fix the timing chains. It's a...

As someone who has recently gone through a SOHC with bad timing chain guides, I can say it is a royal PITA. That engine is a huge failure, even by Ford standards. Ford actually recommends replacing the tensioners every 70k miles. I guess the idea is that the tensioners quit working, and the...

Sheesh, the best thing about these explorers is they are cheap. I'd cut your losses and buy something else. There is no logical reason to be putting $15k into an old truck, besides modifying for offroad. You can still buy brand new cars for less than $20k.

The amplifier is behind the plastic on the passenger side, and bolted above the wheel well. The plastic is one piece from the passenger side rear door, to the rear hatch. There are plugs at the amplifier.

Mobil1 synthetic is great oil. I personally buy NAPA full synthetic by the case every couple of years. Last time I bought 4 cases for $3 a quart. You can't beat that. Being in Alabama, you should be ok running 10w30 all year, although 5w30 is good as well, and the updated ford recommendation...