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I would think Spicer gears would be a simple install in the front since thats what it is. Other rear gears I had great luck with was Motive gears, and US Gears.

I've done dozens of 8.8 rears and you did it the same way I would have other than my impact will crush a sleeve. I always insist on people bring me Ford Racing gears to use to keep it simple, just reuse the factory shims and so far that has worked every time. The only small thing I would have...

I installed those seals when I did my EX but I think they are for the factory vacuum hubs and arn't needed with manual hubs.

I just hammered them in like any other seal.

Time to read up on cam specs. They will tell you what converter works with each cam.

Fords alphabet cams were outdated by the end of the fox bodies IMO. Comp cams has been my go to for years.

Don't forget guys, that Ranger plus 6 inch springs are plus 4.5 inch on an Ex when mounted like an EX is factory.

I have done over 20 8.8 rears and it is common to have to beat the pinions out. Just smack it with a BFH and it'll come out.

I haven't installed mine yet but I was going to try to run without it then see. In the past we just cut the link and used solid round stock with holes drilled in each end and weld the stock ends on.

The Fox valve covers changed in 92 or 93 for the 93 cobra since it came with roller rockers. They don't have those rod looking things in them. Mine fit perfect over 1.7 rollers.

yup, even early 2nd gen had the same DS.

This is why I tell people to use a 1st gen DS and a 627 flange, it'll bolt right on and be perfect.

I'd like to see how you finish it. Great job so far!

After some food and a nap I went back out and tacked both top wings on.

Today I welded the center hunk and used ant splatter spray for the first time and it does what they say but all that extra splatter hits you now...lol I got tired of getting burnt from the extra splatter so I fit one of the top side wings. I guess I'll tack both top wing pieces on...

Do you remember using these on your bumper? They are the last pieces I cant figure out.

Today I took off the stock bumper just to use the frame as a jig to tack the winch plate to the 2x2 and the 2x2 to the mounts. Then I took it off and took it inside to the table and started welding the winch plate gussets on and I ran out of wire...lol Anyone know what these gussets...

First thing I had to do was make a table big enough to lay everything out on. It's just a temporary table so I made it out of laminated particle board 3'x8'. I started by tacking the bumper mounts mostly together. Then I cut my 2x2 and slid the mounts on and called it a day. Next I...

Perfect, Thanks!

I think I'm about ready to start welding my kit up (very sexy kit By the way) and was wondering if you have a picture of the new upper bumper mount you talked about? Is it one of the D ring looking pieces since it looks like you only weld one on each side of the D ring plate and the kit has 2 more.

Mine just showed up today!

My Superlift kit has brake line relocation brackets

SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY! Good luck!

I decided to do the hardest part of the lift first, the brake line relocator brackets...lol It's the hardest part because the old hard line is so rusty I knew it would crack if we tried to pull and bend it to the new location, and it did. So I got a 25ft roll of that easy bend hard line and a...

The 429 and 460 was retarded 8* so all we do is order the early timing set and run it straight up, makes a nice difference.

It'll never be a big block torque monster so no, I'd go straight up and maybe gear down a little more if you want it torquey.

What a screwed up year 2020 ended up being! Anyway, soon I plan on cleaning up the last spindle and drop brackets and make a skid plate for the front brackets.

6'' ranger lift springs will give an EX 4.5'' of lift with the axle over like stock.

I'm running 1.7 roller rockers in my 94GT with newer fox VC. The later fox covers don't have the internal ribs and work well with roller rockers.

Yeah, I hate them too. If I am remembering right, that 627 flange was a Lincoln part originally.

The one you posted about. Fit perfect.

# 627 flange Add this and that DS will fit like a glove. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M2GA5M/?tag=serious-20

The F-150 front DS did not fit under my EX. It was too long and I'm not hacking a DS when a double cardan DS from a 1st gen EX/early 2nd gen EX fits perfectly when you add a #627 flange to it with no funky u joints.

Yeah the rear drive shaft if it's the correct one will bolt right in, no funky Ujoint needed. For the front I used a 1st gen EX shaft with a new flange then it also bolts right in , no funky Ujoints and it has double cardan. And that nipple, your stock unit had a vent line going to it, push...

My Superlift spindles have two sets of caliper holes, I suppose I could use the 12'' rotors off a 04 and up Sport Trac and move my caliper to the outer hole. This is the only bolt on upgrade I can think of.

When I called and talked to whatever company makes that sleeve they said it is made to fit right in and that I must have the wrong T case. Just pissed me off to the whole thing. Very assy about the fact that it didn't fit my case. I still have it and would like to see how it fits in an aluminum...

Junk yards are full of parts like that but if your not willing to do it that's not an option, at least not from a you pull it yard. And the part Jegs will sell you will not fit right on I'd bet. More then likely it's an aftermarket steering shaft, which are very nice but normally replace the...

Here's my other pic of the repair sleeve for the oil pump tang that didn't fit my case. The pic above shows the width of my slot and this pic shows the width of the sleeve incase anyone wants to use one I'd say make sure it fits before buying one.

Yeah, it's even in my pic but for my early magnesium case 4406 it didn't fit. I took that pic with my calipers measuring the tab slot because the sleeve people told me I was wrong when I told them it didn't fit my case. I sent them the pic and they just said, oh well sorry for your luck. So...

I would open it up and check that the oil pump hose isn't rotten. Or that the oil pump tang isn't wearing through the case. This pic is my case and the tang wore a groove about 1/2 way through the case. When it goes all the way through the pump will spin and not pump oil. JB Weld saved the day...