01 Sport 5.0 Overhaul, Should I advance my cam timing 4* for more low end torque

[Doyelbilt]

I’m in the middle of swapping a 01 5.0 into my 01 sport, just got engine parts back from the machine shop, getting ready to reassemble,have stock roller cam, I have a adjustable timing chain set & contemplating advancing the cam 4* for more low end torque, have read some general reviews but looking for advice for my application, have 4R70W, 4.10s & 35s any advice would be much appreciated, Doyelbilt

 

[SWIGIN]

It'll never be a big block torque monster so no, I'd go straight up and maybe gear down a little more if you want it torquey.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 302/4R70W combination in stock form(3.73:1 gears) already "jumps" off the line fast, notably quicker than the 4.0 SOHC engine. I have both and am very familiar with the differences.

The 4.10 gears and 35" tires(30"(stock)/35"*4.10= 3.51:1 final gearing), that will be almost the same as a stock 302 in gearing. 4.56 gears could make that 3.91:1 gearing, if you wanted to swap both sets of diff/gears.

You will have enough torque as it is, altering the engine could help, but move away much from the stock combo, and new PCM tuning is needed. Changing the cam timing won't do much as it's already aimed at a lower rpm range, but it will shift at 5k easily in stock form. A better cam or compression could help a good bit, but there's the tuning requirement. A stock 302HO camshaft can be a good choice, won't upset the PCM, and would gain some power through the rpm range(mostly upper). All stock cams are mild, not high rpm stuff, so don't assume the HO(or Cobra) cams are race in any way. Those are mild cams with lower valve lift, they all still make good torque down low.

I like a 306 for these Explorer as a 9.5:1 engine and slightly better heads(40% increase in airflow to me is very good(BTW stock is under 190cfm)), a custom cam and ported Explorer intakes(both), and a much bigger exhaust. You cannot do almost any of that without new tuning, so either go very mild, or all out. make a budget and let that decide. I figure for that 302 I'd do, the engine alone would be close to $3k. I've been told a custom cam with proper valve springs could allow the engine to have 9.7:1 compression and run on regular fuel. You can go higher with premium fuel, but that gets very expensive if you drive a lot.

 

[Blown]

I have looked at this across a few builds. It wont make a big difference in a stock engine. You would gain some bottom-end torque but lose some high-end rpm/horsepower. It is probably like adding 20 ftlbs. and would be hardly noticeable by feel or seat of the pants. It is a finer adjustment that does make a bigger difference with a bunch of other power adders. I chose to stay with stock timing.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 4 degrees would only be seen in a dyno test, maybe 5ftlbs or less of torque. That kind of trick of advancing the timing, is mainly for much bigger cams than mild or stock cams. It started in the early 70's when the OEM was producing the engines, with retarded timing built in. Ford did it in the 1972 engines at 4* on all of them from what I recall. Any aftermarket timing set for those gained 4*, it was about emissions and cats being brand new requirements.

 

[410Fortune]

good info dudes!!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

good info dudes!!!!

I'm going to get you to build an engine one of these daysYou have the space and motivation, I just need to make you try it, building an engine from scratch is a great experience, and fun with the new parts. It's wrenching without all the filthy part, other than cleaning small used parts you keep for the build. I haven't built one since 2000 or so, and I can't believe it's been so long. The parts choices are way better now, tons of aftermarket support for almost anything.

BTW, you have an Explorer handy often right, well try to find a pair of Hedman headers, part #88400. The right one looks like it might bolt on and clear everything. If it does, then nobody has tried to just get the left one made, or alter the Hedman header. The left one looks like 2-3 of the pipes might clear the steering shaft. The collectors of course would require an altered down pipe to mate them, but that'd be minor. Here's the two pics I have of them on an Explorer 302.

 

[Doyelbilt]

I'm going to get you to build an engine one of these daysYou have the space and motivation, I just need to make you try it, building an engine from scratch is a great experience, and fun with the new parts. It's wrenching without all the filthy part, other than cleaning small used parts you keep for the build. I haven't built one since 2000 or so, and I can't believe it's been so long. The parts choices are way better now, tons of aftermarket support for almost anything.

BTW, you have an Explorer handy often right, well try to find a pair of Hedman headers, part #88400. The right one looks like it might bolt on and clear everything. If it does, then nobody has tried to just get the left one made, or alter the Hedman header. The left one looks like 2-3 of the pipes might clear the steering shaft. The collectors of course would require an altered down pipe to mate them, but that'd be minor. Here's the two pics I have of them on an Explorer 302.

View attachment 325936

View attachment 325937

 

[Doyelbilt]

Thanks guys for the great info, have convinced me to leave the cam timing at 0*, will be staying with stock cam for now & see how that does for me, Thanks Again

 

[410Fortune]

Yeah buddy! There are so many things about what headers might work with the 5.0 swaps into the TTB and IFS trucks that its good to have some part numbers and pictures.

I have been a part of several engine builds, standing there watching and helping as they go together.
enough to turn me away from them! I would rather save and buy a crate engine
Too many horror stories for my liking, getting the machine work done to match all the parts together and then assemble = works out about half of the time!
Now to refresh an old engine that is already running well, that is more up my budget minded "junk yard solutions" mindset
Otherwise I would buy an already assembled long block and take it from there

You may not know this about me but I HAVE rebuilt many many small engines like kids atv (kawi LT80, Yamaha 80cc, honda TRX90, two stroke and 4 strokes all the way to my 900cc 2 stroke polaris sled that makes 150+ HP....on the homestead here we have several diesel machines tractor, dozer, excavator, atv's I am ALWAYS tinkering with something. I am getting ready to split the cases on a 650cc kawi engine and transaxle to replace the crank bearings for my neighbor...fix it for $500 instead of $2000+ for a crate engine.
So you might be right, with the connections I am making here in N Idaho I might just be able to assemble my own 331 stroker for my sport trac I would LOVE to supercharge as well
My daily driven 5.0 BII is awesome she handles our road and daily duties around here with ease and on the cheap! But she is starting to rust inside the body pillars and various places, cracks in the frame, etc... So I am building a 01 Sport trac to take over daily duties. Better suited now that I have 2 grandkids and 3 dogs to haul around. The BII will go on a rotisserie and get refurbished likely be my sons truck when he is of age (11 now)


Merry Christmas you guys!

 

[SWIGIN]

The 4 degrees would only be seen in a dyno test, maybe 5ftlbs or less of torque. That kind of trick of advancing the timing, is mainly for much bigger cams than mild or stock cams. It started in the early 70's when the OEM was producing the engines, with retarded timing built in. Ford did it in the 1972 engines at 4* on all of them from what I recall. Any aftermarket timing set for those gained 4*, it was about emissions and cats being brand new requirements.

The 429 and 460 was retarded 8* so all we do is order the early timing set and run it straight up, makes a nice difference.