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what ever your asking, the engine needs to come out . i left the trans in the car. i hate doing extra work but in this case take the engine out. to redo the timing chains ,guides and reseal....sorry

Check all your fuses and swap relays just for fun

Different things to look at. Hook up a scanner and look at the data. With the engine off hook up a fuel psi guage ,hot hot wire the fuel pump and leave the pump running 15-20 while observing you fuel pressure. To verify that's not your problem. Something else disconnect the maf sensor and see...

Take the egr valve out of the picture by disconnecting the vacuum line to the egr valve. It can cause a stalling ,poor idle.

Around how much to replace everything using Ford oem parts. Frt seal,rear main,frt timing cover seal water pump,upper and lower oil pan gsk,oil filter housing orings,all timing components that are expendable,valve cover seal, intake seals,frt ,rear Jack shaft bolts,frt pulley bolt.

I am doing them now.engine ran great just chain noise from the right rear. I removed the vlv covers and only the r/rear chain was loose. But after rotating the engine backwards, just a little. I felt something wrong.the Crank key was at 12:00 but the cam marks were off (not parallel to the...

because the front timing cover has no dowel pins. you are suppose to use a tool like otc 303-093. which cost $50. Any ideas on doing this without the tool?

i gave up on doing a reseal and timing components with the engine still in. the engine is out and on a engine stand.

Don't you have to remove the transmission because it covers the torx bolt at the bottom piviot the guide? By remove I mean separate and push back enough to get my hand in there.

I started working on the 4.0. I am only working on the right side. I removed the cam followers with oemtools 24434. Then took the cam caps off. I removed the hydraulic tensioner . And tried to remove the cam with the sprocket still bolted on. "You Can't" ! there is not enough slack to go up past...

I am sorry. I missed you said you DO have spark. Compression test might be easier to do vs pulling valve covers to see if the cams turn.

Crank sensor

I can't work on the vehicle till after the 10th on this month. Henry Ford would not have approved of this engine. I owned a 1974 Mercury Capri with a Cologne German v6. It was a 2.8 liter with timing gears on the frt. Simple and indestructible. We are heading in the wrong direction. I am a 40...

Does someone know the tool number to compress the valve spring so I can remove the cam followers. Is it this one T97T-6565-A 303-581? Would this oemtools 24434 work ?

Thank you for your insight. I haven't even considered the cam followers, rollers. I have to remove the transmission any way,if so this short doesnt work I will continue on the the job by removing the engine.

I will remove the transmission to get to the bolt behind the bell housing. Is it possible to remove the cam with the r/rear sprocket attached (so it doesn't go out of it's correct position) ? If it comes out from under chain. I am not replacing chain. Then I would insert the new chain guide...

Bump

I want to replace rear chain guide without loosening timing bolt on the back of the cam. can i remove the camshaft bearing caps and tilt the cam up and slide the chain off. then install my new guide 4L2Z-6M290-AA and then put it all back together? my front timing chain is tight and no rattle...

I am thinking of a way to reduce the timing chain noise on startup. I am going to Crank the engine with no fuel pump voltage momentary via kill switch Then I will start the vehicle normally. Any opinions.