Search results

Thanks for the photos. Good examples.

I need to replace the front driver side brake line on my Explorer, but after removing the line, I realized there is a flexible part in the middle. Has anyone else replaced this line, and if so, did you just go with a solid line, or did you some how replicate the flexible part?

My Explorer isn't in a position where I can raise the tires off the ground. Is it possible to replace the fuel pump, or drop the tank specifically, without jacking the truck off the ground?

That's a good point. Looking at where it's routed, there's no way I would get a pre-bent one in. Is the front-passenger side line one continuous line, or does it have a coupling with two lines like the ones in the rear?

Is there anywhere that sells pre-bent hydraulic brake lines for 2nd gen Explorers? My passenger front line just started leaking, and I hear it's probably the worst one to replace.

Those looks similar to the Moog ones, I think boom was describing something different.

Do you have a photo? I'm having a hard time picturing what the key would look like. I don't have the original bolts, so I'll have to make something. Did the original bolts have a rectangle, as opposed to a oval, on the ends?

The vibration isn't related to steering, but I'll give that a shot. Thanks.

Only symptom I have is excessive vibration up front. Besides the rack-and-pinion, everything else is relatively new up front, and looks fine. For now, unless I get more symptoms, I'll just assume it's bad tire wear.

What are the symptoms of a failing rack-and-pinion? Or, how can I tell if mine requires replacement?

With Moog's caster/camber bolt kit, which gives me +/-1.625 degrees of adjustment (3.25 degrees total), I've maxed out the camber range and still can't get the wheels aligned. It's prematurely wearing the inside of my tires. I have torsion twist and shackles, and the only thing I can think is...

Would a bad wire on the drivers door prevent the passenger door switches/button from activating the windows?

Got a 2005 Explorer where none of the windows are opening/closing, yet the sunroof works fine. All the fuses appear fine. When you hit the button on the door, it doesn't sound like the window motor is even trying to engage. Is there something else, besides a fuse, that is common to all four...

- Tie rod play appeared normal when I had both wheels off the ground. The play is only when push/pulling on the tie rod itself. - Issue is only on one side. No play on the passenger side. So I'd agree, rack/pinion seems fine since usually rack/pinion problems are on both sides. - Rack/pinion...

Right, but if I have play on the ground, does that not imply something else is wrong? Bad steering rack?

I didn't touch the PS fluid. Still a little play with the engine running.

Just replaced my inner tie rod assuming it was the cause all the minor popping sounds and slight vibration I'm feeling in the wheel. The most convincing evidence that pointed to the inner tie rod was the fact that, with the vehicle still on the ground, I can pull back and forth on the tie rod...

Perfect, thanks guys. I was able to find the Moog one locally at an O'Riellys.

Does anywhere sell the inner tie rod boot? I can't get my inner and outer tie rods apart, so I can't get the boot off to put on the new one tie rod. I've checked the usual places like RockAuto and Advance/Auto Parts, but they don't stock it.

Problem solved - turned out to be the rear ujoint on the rear drive shaft.

Well I've now replaced a bad wheel hub assembly on the driver's side, a bad tie rod end on the drivers side, a bad upper ball joint on the passenger side and the U-joint and CV joint on the intermediate axle. I also greased up all the other ball joints. The squeaking still has not gone away.

Well I meant rear to distinguish between the front wheels and the rear wheels.

Oh wow, I didn't realise the split was that dramatic. Reason I asked is because I picked up a replacement CV joint for the shaft but didn't realise until it was to late that the part was "damaged". All the ballbearings came out of the unit and I can't get them back in again.

Is it possible to run without the rear-intermediate driveshaft? The one with the CV joint on one end and u-joint on the other.

That's the only one in the area, so I'm going to need to order one. Can I run without the drive shaft for the time being?