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i have mine to look forward to also i just ordered some raamat today.

i would get the zx250.2. it will;give you a bit of head room and you dont have to run it at full tilt. the 250.2 will be a little over 250x1 @ 4 ohm bridged and if i remember right its not much more money. I just bough a 200.2 last night for my tweeters and was looking at the 250 also

i had the same squeek problem with the factory baffles when i was running my mbquart6x8 components. i took theplastic out and made it out of mdf. and that noise is gone. also looking at you pic i would recommed deading the complete inside of the outer doorskin. then some closed cell foam...

i just have my wire come out of the kleenex hole and stick the ipod in there when in use

ive never been a fan of panasonic. ive had good luck with pioneer, alpine and kenwood head units. i would stay away from sony(personal opinion)ive seen too many go bad over time

not sure how handy you are but you could probably fix the ball joints and shocks yourself and have used trans put in the truck for a grand or less. you could sell the truck then for at least 3 grand or keep driving it. remember parts are cheap its labor that makes repairs costly. read some of...

have you checked your ball joints for play?

sounds like your ready for a new head unit. i dont think the heat from the heater ducts is causing you issues.

do you have problems with the heater off?

ive decided to use the 8" l7 to save some space. also the 2 current tens hit much harder than i will ever use. i feel the 8 will satisfy my listening style. the box will be a glass mdf combo i just installed the mb quart components today and they just scream. while im working with glass...

you could always build a duct and fan to draw cool air across the head unit if you worried about heat.

actuall i had to trim the lips from the top and bottom to clear the flip out face. i recall the metra double din kit using the lips on the sides to hold the unit to the bezel. One negative with pioneer nav units is the sound processing/ eq is not that great as there is limited...

your idea sounds very doable. however have you thought of making a glass panel for the gauges and put that where ever you like and leave the radio the way it is?

the amps and subs will work well together. if you wire them in paralell as shown above. keep in mind they will more than overpower the speakers run off the head unit.

Thanks guys, d mac i like your box and im picturing something almost just like that. I will be incorperating a amp mount also to place the amp above the wheel i currently have 2 10" infinity's. they sound nice and everything but i do have the gain on the amp turned down and bass pulled...

i currently run a avic d2 head unit with a kicker 700.5 5 channel amp. using 2 svc 4 ohm infiniti kappa perfect subs and a sealed encloser. i have the amp mounted to the box and want to regain my cargo area. my thought is to buiild a hideaway style box to hold a single kicker l7 subwoofer dvc...

Alot of times the same dash harness is used for all applicatoins and if a certain option is not purchased the wiring is sometimes there but noting there to plug into. i would check the right front kick panel area for the connector. it just may be there. i know that the anteanna wire runs from...

your right it is jbl brand name. many explorers and other fords were installed with jbl systems from the factory. its like the bose products you see in old gm cars. they take factory equipment and slap a brand name on it for sales

even when the code is missing it is very easy to retrieve the code with the ngs or wds. using the green service card acessing the rap and displaying the pid for the code is less than 5 mins. even worse is the fees that dealers charge to program a pats key. this is a 10 min process that...

you know it stinks to here dealers charge for retrieving the code. i worked at ford for years and i always showed the customers where the code was located. alot of ford cars print the code on a sticker and stick it inside the trunk or on the hinges for the trunk lid.

you need to remove the rest of the axle from the diff. the inner portion of the cv joint is still splined in. pull that "odd shape section" out and you can slide the new axle in you may have to pry it out. the new axles you have look correct

sounds like a brake booster creaking.

i currently have a avic d2 in my truck. i just bought an ipod and i see that there is an i pod adapter available. has anyone used this? sound quality? is it easy to navigate through the menu? is it worth spending the money? ive seen the adapter box part numbere CD-IB100II on ebay for...

the tailgate issue is normally due to a corroded or rusted part inside the door or the handle itself - if you remove the panel on the hatch and lube all the pivot points it may help free up a sticking lever on the latch or the handle. ive seen many twist style handles get frozen that may be...

here is the easiest thing. take a test light place it in series with the fuse terminals so it lights(this will also add a load to the circuit so the wires will not fry. find out every part in a service manual that fuse feeds and start to un plug those devices one at a time. when the light goes...