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Ooops Sorry I did not know that.

Sorry i am back not sure the exact tire size the rims are 15inch the tires are big o at's. The ac doesnt work I recently had it recharged with 3 cans of r12 and it doesn't get cold...sound system is stock and plays fine, no alarm or anything fancy..just a good strong running truck I have spent...

I will miss the EX Gas is $3.99 87, $4.14 89, and $4.24 for premium. 20 gal tank $4gl =$80. I just cant afford it. I have nothing bad to say about my EX for the 2-3 years I owned her. Got a 98 subaru impreza 2.2l awd. much better on mileage.

It makes me sad to sell it but gas is just gonna keep going up. She runs great I have done many repairs. here is the ad for it. If any one is interested hit me up. http://redding.craigslist.org/car/684566492.html

C clamps I used 2 6inch c clamps for my U-joints. Only broke 1. Not bad for cheap harbor freight tools.

I have the exact same coolant leak. Good to know what it is. I thought it was my freeze plug. My leak looks like it is under my exhaust manifold by the motor mount. passanger side. sounds like I got a new project..:salute:

NO bars leak I used that crap in my 92 geo storm and it was a huge mistake. It plugged all my water jackets in the head and block causing blockage and overheating which leads to a larger job or removing the head and getting it machined. I will never use a bars leak products agin and I will...

I know I know.. if no one has said this already, Its your radius arm bushing. $14 dollar part. mechanic quoted me at $140. I tried shocks, ball joints, and new brakes. Finally the cheapest fix did it. On the bright side I have new shocks, ball joints, brakes ,and radius arm bushing's now.

I had really high and loud rpms for awhile then on day I saw a vacuum hose that wasnt connected. Once I re-attached it the rpms dropped and the truck got quite agin. It was on the driver side attached to the black orb looking gizmo. such technical terms I know.

ty for the info and the link.

Any other ideas, why it would vibrate like that? so far I have heard driveline and rotors. Could worn tie rods cause a vibration?

used some head gasket fixer. It plugged all my water holes in the engine and caused the heads to overheat and warp. Was not fun and I will never use stuff like that agin... yes it was late summer.

I tried additives once. made my problem worse. carefull what you pour in you ride.

The braking sounds like rotors. as for the vibration I am still try'n to pin point it. Its getting narrowed down tho.

sounds like my issue. hopefully a driveline check will show the the true problem. if not then its time to turn the rotors... and ya the speedlimit is 65/70mph.

Rotors eh. Mine need to be resurfaced for sure. I have heard other stories of rotors causing vibrations. I guess it goes a lil higher in the priority list. TY for the info.:cool:

No I bought it 2 years ago and its been doing it since i bought it. :eek:

The road doesn't matter its the speed.

when I reach about 65-70mph my whole truck starts to shake pretty violently, my front seats and center console really get shaken up. I pass 70mph it smooths out and its not bad up until 65mph. I have tried many things now to fix it. New ball joints, radius arm bushings, shocks, u-joints...

Ok I will call a couple shops and see what it costs to get checked out. TY for the advise

I have a similiar shaking in my ex. when I reach about 65-70mph my whole truck starts to shake pretty violently, my front seats and center console really get shaken up. I pass 70mph it smooths out and its not bad up until 65mph. I have tried many things now to fix it. New ball joints, radius...

Problem solved Junk yard $12.95. I bet I pay more for the machine shop.... which wasnt able to do it.

So I bought the rag joint pulled my steering assembly out cut the old bolts, and the trouble begins. I cant get the studs out or the assembly. I brought it to a machine shop and they are currently working on it. Do I have to press the new universal bolts in with a press or can I whack them in...