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thanks, i can see how that'd be a problem. i never took mine out, just checked the slide smoothness.

ok i'll look for that, also, the valve body had copper metal pieces in one of the circuits, so i got needlenose and pulled out what i could see. for the correct direction, do you mean one side of the hole or the other, cause i didn't think it mattered. so i assume you mean across the length...

after valve body gasket install, no gears. the engine revs as i change the gear lever, but won't engage. it's automatic, and only reverse wasn't working before new gaskets and orings. just a couple of things out of the ordinary: two valve bolts were the same size, when only one was supposed to...

guess what was sticking up about 2 inches out of the top of the engine? rofl! yep, the dipstick (not this one, but the ex's). thanks for the deduction even from no pics!

oh yeah, that's on the right front. i'm talking about the right rear (along the rear edge of the valve body), there's sort of a metal tab that hangs down. i'll have to take a pic of it when i take off the valve body again (i have it loosely on now).

hi, a metal part hangs down from of the valve body that's connected to the transmission on the right/rear end. when i tried to install my valve body with new gaskets, it pushed up into the hole. i can fish it out, but what's it for, and/or what do i do with it? (my copy and paste doesn't work...

BrooklynBay: those have a cylinder extension that fits into the top of the spring - thank you for your response, what would we do without you :) JK080: you're a lifesaver! looked in my pile of scraps on the floor, and there the other one was! thanks for your location and info!

yes, probably the rocker arms, that's why it decreases with idle, and is a little quieter under the truck. change oil with the right weight, it'll probably quiet down a little.

94 auto transmission valve body : this part fell out, anyone know where it goes in the valve body? the part is the same on both sides, a small cylinder with indents in top and bottom: part: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f04p08lgtcubg0r/IMG_20170916_181851041.jpg?dl=0 valve body...

don't forget the orifice tube replace. if you don't run your a/c, then you can get a shorter belt to omit the compressor from the belt loop. with a dirty system, your compressor may ruin. if you diy, you may waste a lot of time going back and forth discharging/charging with leaks.

the cats around here pee on the wheels. my sister said it eats into them? idk, but spray it off anyway, lol.

whenever i see free shipping, it tempts me to buy over anyone else. also, the links from the forum members for parts are here because they're quality parts they have done research for. so quality parts with reasonable price is another good point.

a connector on the big cylinder part of the hose, near the condenser, is what the switch screws onto.

i replaced my fan, and it had the extension ring, but i didn't use it, because the old bolts were too short, of course. also, whenever i replaced the waterpump a while ago, the pulley on it runs wobbly, and the fan's attached to that. i don't know why it runs wobbly?

mine was bent in, at the middle of the arm. i carefully bent it out until it felt like it was where it was before. the end still hits the glass when i close it, but i haven't tried to stop that yet.

thank you all for your input! fr-425 thank you for the answer. i'll chalk it up to experience. rock auto has this part, i hope it fits: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3934167&cc=1119631&jnid=530&jpid=0 :)

it double posted, please continue

both of the abs plugs are connected, and the intake air sensor is also connected. it's great that you're suggesting the circular plugs, but i still haven't found its home yet, lol.

my compressor has a plug near the pulley, which is plugged in, and i bought a new hose for the back. the hose has 2 copper nuts in the metal, which i don't know what they're for. the plug i was asking about doesn't fit into either of those. i don't know what's under the copper nuts, lol.

i think the 2 wire colors are yellow and green (kinda dirty). i think the loom goes to the dryer cannister plug, but not sure. i have no fog lamps or daytime lamps. i was working on the condenser and later noticed this unhooked. (everything except the compressor seems to work fine).

mine was the cable came apart from the blue support clip, near the slider end. the clip's purpose is to hold the metal end (looks like it's threaded) of the cable's sheath, while the metal part of the cable line pulls back and forth within the black sheath. so i shoved the sheath's metal end...

the thermostat is working, since the temp rises, then the tstat opens, which makes it read cooler then. *slowly* turn up the heat temp, and see if it changes in any way. (if not slowly, you may bust the plastic valve near the firewall).

i was thinking vaccuum too, lol, around the octopus, hope it's an easy fix.

natenkiki2004 esp. the idler (check center nut) and tensioner pullies.

mine is stuck in the other direction, in that it goes from left to middle, then stops. funny thing is, the air blows from warm to hot, so it's always warm air. it's like whatever the slider's connected to has limited movement, and what it's supposed to open and close stays open? please advise...

bump the ones i've found online i'm unsure if they're new. if i have to use my old one, i will, but since it may not be an expensive part, i'd rather new. thanks

what's a link to get the whole transmission governor assembly, possibly including the aftermarket spring? mine's an '94 a4ld automatic, and i'm not shifting when cold. even manually it sometimes takes some time (which isn't good pulling into 55mph traffic). thank you for the link, cogs

didn't see that you replaced the rad cap (again)? also, mine leaks on the radiator right at the tube fitting beneath the rad cap. i put some rtv in there, and it doesn't seem to leak anymore.

i jumped the offset black wire to the high blower wire. i couldn't make my a/c engage at all, but at least i have blower power. i did blow the a/c fuse under the dash, it was a 10 amp replacement. tried to put a little r134 in (the pressure was 0), but still no a/c clutch turning. it's weird...

look at the heater valve (black plastic) near the passenger side firewall. also, the top radiator hose - look for hole. check clamps are tight on hoses

the loose end of the filter, find which tool fits over the lip, not just meets it. use that one.

congrats on the find. didn't read all the pages... what's wrong with your window? i had to drill a hole to get to the right bolt on my motor, which made it easier.

lol been living with this problem for years... gotten to where i ignore it, or turn the chrome part til it stops. never thought to try to fix it.

i didn't see a post about a harmonic balancer there, just a reference to it in the last post.

did you burp the system? http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-272433.html

From: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-202479.html

thank you chaos, very interesting.

i was just reading this link earlier about u-joint replacement: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

then it's not above there. are the bolts tight on the pan all around?

on the first pic, the vacuum line is the one in the very back, closest to the firewall. on your second pic, if that's the passenger side, then the modulator is right above the linkage. it's kinda shiny and round.